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this fear for heat up electronics felt like Y2K bug, remember those, got fixed by simple update. this image is not of something getting hot, and if someone is trying to waterproof electronics thats giving out that much wattage, perhaps he does need to learn by hard way :P
good one, I did something similar to my HEATING up resistor! :P I realize what you did and why. people are so much worried about heat same as they got worried about grounding in wiring, which is alien concept in asia :P so rock on. Although do give attention to things pointed out but take too much pressure. With love from Pakistan
* but dont take too much pressure
epoxy idea is also good
Monitor your Inverter Online/Test your Home Inverter
that box !!!!! lovely
If I am correct, these smaller speakers are magnetically shielded (magents are covered in metal enclosure) so they can be used near TV and PC.
lovely name :) PiFi
USB Fan | Stylish | Portable
Great job, congrats, would love to see it working on pc
I wish i found this earlier. I made something like this, but perhaps designed poor, because i was worried voltage loss in of 25 meter wire (LAN Cable), So after the failed experiment with transistors, I have switched to arduino and to justify my path I also added rgb leds :P with abilty to change color of filled / empty indicators, not to mention buzzers on low level and little buzz for over flow. http://inoace.com/blog/water-tank-level/
isnt the reset resistor supposed to be on pin 1 of atmega, not after cap. Plz correct , it may misguide people
download what, copy the code. rightclick save mage
only supply voltage and test resistor values if they work
It will cause electrolysis and the + will disintegrate. (done it) i have this idea to periodically scan sensors for change in level. like after 10 20 sec
always give full details when asking question, and images of your setup, there can be a million thing wrong.
Thankyou for sharing info, didnt knew about paint/alcohal ink.I have managed to work with toner transfer > hot salt water electrolysis with 12v battery > vinegar/peroxide to remove remaining copper dust.
Arduino on a Breadboard with a FT232RL
Here are my observations from living in Pakistan:1. either its ,more diluted vinegar or hydrogen per oxide. the process is NOT 10 - 20 minutes long, but takes hours. which in result causes poor tracks as toner transferred plastic begin to dissolve or drop off. Conclusion; Poor method for my usage.2. Better: use electrolysis in salt water solution. BUT it leaves dust like structure behind, perhaps not fully etched. 3. BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. I used electrolysis to remove access copper from pcb than used vinegar method (1) to remove the little dust like structures. Worked like charm.
expensive and not easily available at some places.
150gm glossy paper works like charm too.
I have noticed , this is only good where the copper is single plane, what about parts separated. Also it leaves copper dust like structure on board (not all etched away)I experimented and found these steps to work for me:I etched pcb in 2 steps,Step 1: etch away all major copper via salt water electrolysis. Step 2: etch remaining copper dust via hot Vinegar+hydrogen per oxide + salt water
I have noticed , this is only good where the copper is single plane, what about parts separated. also some copper is not etched and left as a dust of board.I experimented and found these steps to work for me:I etched pcb in 2 steps,Step 1: etch away all major copper via salt water electrolysis. Step 2: etch remaining copper dust via hot Vinegar+hydrogen per oxide + salt water
Thankyou for sharing library, I got this oled, 128x32 (while the vendor claimed to be 128x64) confirmed with both adafruit and U8 library. it has scanline type effect. guess its because of lower resolution
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