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Have also started to notice manufacturers moving away from steppers to regular DC motors more so in printers and scanners. These also need quite a bit of accuracy esp. the high dpi units so methinks they have found a way to use DC motors without losing the accuracy of a stepper.
Watch out for those breadboard PSU'sThey can go south pretty quick if you draw too much current for a lone period of time. I have 3 in the garbage so far as the regulators on them are not always the best. Better to have a more reliable supply or one that can handle the current. So I recommend check the specs before you buy. I moved to some of the power puck types you can buy and things are a lot better here.
Can this be used with the WMU adaptor for the Nikon ?
I have tried many methods but it wont let me use them in public.
How did you get your guage on your public channel.?I don't get the same screens that you show and can only display on a private channel
This was a good primer.Some things seem to have changed a little but it still works.Now I just need to play a little to see how far I can take it. I wanted something better than the Arduino MKR1000 that I have because its so unreliable requiring full restarts and such and most of the projects require a paid subscription to Azure. N
OK changed my mind I didn't understand that this is a PAY FOR USE app.Unlike Thingspeak orEasyIOT which are free.
just curious.you call R1 30k and R2 10k yet the schem shows 9k and 3k ?There is quite a difference and I just wondered which one was correct before I attempt this one.I would like to use this with a 7 seg display for my boat battery (12V) and have already made a sketch for it but before I hook it up I want to be sure I am not going to fry anything.Also am going to use a 3.3v pro mini so thinking that I should swap out the 5v (Vout) for 3.3 ??
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