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The most common fix for 101 and USB 3.0 issues is to insert a POWERED USB 2.0 hub between the computer and the Arduino.Tends to fix around 95% of the issues seen with USB 3.0A lot depends on the chipset and implementation of USB 3.0 on a particular computer.Some users have said that rolling back Microsoft updates regarding USB has also helped.
I know its a late reply but YES you can hes only using it to control a relay at the end of the day.
I agree...Its misleading to say the least.
There are a lot of fixes (and causes) for that particular error.Its an old fix but still valid for some people.For more up to date answers I would suggest a search from inside the http://forum.arduino.cc/ forum to get all the stk 500 answers in a more usable bundle of results.
You might want to update the article soon as codebender is closing down...You could try the Arduino CREATE as that lets you share code too
Have also started to notice manufacturers moving away from steppers to regular DC motors more so in printers and scanners. These also need quite a bit of accuracy esp. the high dpi units so methinks they have found a way to use DC motors without losing the accuracy of a stepper.
Watch out for those breadboard PSU'sThey can go south pretty quick if you draw too much current for a lone period of time. I have 3 in the garbage so far as the regulators on them are not always the best. Better to have a more reliable supply or one that can handle the current. So I recommend check the specs before you buy. I moved to some of the power puck types you can buy and things are a lot better here.
Can this be used with the WMU adaptor for the Nikon ?
I have tried many methods but it wont let me use them in public.
How did you get your guage on your public channel.?I don't get the same screens that you show and can only display on a private channel
This was a good primer.Some things seem to have changed a little but it still works.Now I just need to play a little to see how far I can take it. I wanted something better than the Arduino MKR1000 that I have because its so unreliable requiring full restarts and such and most of the projects require a paid subscription to Azure. N
OK changed my mind I didn't understand that this is a PAY FOR USE app.Unlike Thingspeak orEasyIOT which are free.
just curious.you call R1 30k and R2 10k yet the schem shows 9k and 3k ?There is quite a difference and I just wondered which one was correct before I attempt this one.I would like to use this with a 7 seg display for my boat battery (12V) and have already made a sketch for it but before I hook it up I want to be sure I am not going to fry anything.Also am going to use a 3.3v pro mini so thinking that I should swap out the 5v (Vout) for 3.3 ??
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