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Dollo 3D: Self replicating 3D printer
Finally got one made. Z-axis was the biggest hurdle and it's not perfect yet, but it prints :). Next some tweaking to get the quality up; Z-has some twist, it's motion 'fluctuates' every 1cm or so (bausing uneven layer hights) and X-axis motor mount is too loose. But it works! woo!
it doesn't work like that. I don't do bearings because its not needed. and you can't get rid of the other y motor because it flexes way to much since it has no metal parts in the joint.
BenjaminE4,some thoughts about the X and Y gears, that fit on the stepper motor axis. Shouldn't they have a bearing on the side opposite to the motor?I printed some planetary gear bearings, and they work ok, so I was thinking about integrating one into the motor mount.Maybe we could then also save one motor, but I'm not sure about that now.A printed axis between the two Y gears may have a too high twist.But I'll definitely try it.CheersUhrheber
Is it better to print them in PLA (more rigid), or ABS (easier fitting parts together?).
True, some of the problems can be caused by differences between printers, but i had to change the motor mount part about 1mm and i think that's quite much for varinace, especially when other parts generally fit. Then again i haven't measured what the actual prints are compared to the models... i'm using Slic3r and recently purchased Simplify3D.The Z-axis is an interesting idea, i think i'll play around with the current version just to see how well it works. Looking forward to the finished version.And i wish you luck with the kickstarter campaign, i'll pobably get me a kit even though i'm printing one :)
yeah, I know I had not yet made the new z corners, I have been using metal rods to get rid of variables while its still all being tested. The issues with the parts fitting isn't necessarily the models issues, what I have seen a lot of is different slicers, or different machines, tip sizes, all those kinds of things can change how well parts fit together, you will see in a lot of the .scad file I have a thing asking for tip size, that is there so that I can compensate for the top diameter and make parts that fit better.yeah I do need to make fix that include warning. As for a frame, you can use the long slots to make short "long ties" and slide them into the slots with a small hole for a magnet and then just press fit magnets into it and do the same on some plexiglass to make "walls" but that only works when you scale it up and the bed is straight and not 45deg (at 45deg the corners poke out so you can't put a plane there)I'll go and check out the fork right now
In the NEW ties folder, the twist corner vertical grooves didn't fit the extention part and top ties where too tight of a match to get them fit on the next part.Also the motor mount was bit too tight for the rack to fit in the groove.I forked the github project, my modifications are here: https://github.com/spegelius/Dollo. If the changes are viable, i can create pull request to merge them. I think i did some kind of fix for the include-warning, too...I'm waiting for my summer vacation so i can continue with this project. Currently all parts are printed (i think, haven't kept that close count :) ), but haven't had time to assemble. I also need a plate for the bed, i was thinking about designing and printing somekind of frame, but don't know what it'll be yet.Nice project, the tinkerer in me is pleased :)
So what are you then planning to use for the Z axis?I was thinking about a printed toothed rack also for Z, but then we'd need two of them, and also two motors.Talking of motors, I've seen people using smaller, geared steppers for 3D printed printers, for cost reasons. They're slow, but cheap, and small. I could imagine using two, or even three small geared steppers for the z axis, as you don't need much speed here.It would be even possible to do an automatic levelling then.There aren't any cheap 3D printer boards, that have enough stepper drivers for that, but a set of such a motor + driver board is super cheap, so it'd be possible to just drive them with some of the spare IOs of the Arduino board. That'd require a special firmware version, but it'd be fun designing it.http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Smart-Electronics-2...Just some thoughts...
you for sure won't need glue, the frame is crazy strong when you have all 8 (4 corners and 4 long ties) in the joints.I can get the x and y to move at about .25mm accuracy with no lashing (as it has no belts)I agree with you on the Z axis, the idea is fun and it was just to say yes you can do it, but its not supper accurate as it tends to rotate about 1 degree between layers I have been trying to work on it but eh, the only thing its good for it being able to scale with out getting new metal parts. If the parts were injection molded it would work file, but they aren't sooo..... yeah.it says that include isn't being pulled in but really it is, it gives a warning but it does still work.I have tested all of the include files, they are used everywhere in the printer files and I rendered all of the stl files my self so I don't see how that isn't working.
I don't fully understand what to print.In the folder NEW_long_ties, there are the long, straight elements named extension.scad. Are they meant to replace the old extension elements with holes?If so, it seems that you mount the racks to them using the long bow ties.But how do I mount the twist_corner? It seems that they still need the short bow ties. Do I have to use the old extensions for the vertical beams?
Thanks for the quick answer.And thanks for the offer, but I already have all the electronics parts. This isn't my first printer, and I like to tinker around, so I have lots of heatbeds, extruders, hotends, Ramps boards, etc.But if the design works, I'll send you a donation.I'm not even sure whether I'll build a complete Dollo. I was just curious whether a fully printed frame would be rigid enough. I think it is, if I add some glue.Also, I was curious about how well the X and Y gears would work. We'll see.The Z axis I don't really like. It's interesting to have a a fully printed solution here, but I'm not convinced that it'll work. The plate is only guided at two points, so I think it'll tilt. Especially in the full sized version. Also, I don't think that the PMMA plate that holds the gears will be rigid enough. I'd rather use an aluminium or Dibond plate here.I think I'll try your Z axis just for fun, but I'm rather convinced that I'll end up with a classic version, using either one threaded rod and two guiding rods, or two threaded rods and two motors.But I'd be very pleased if the plastic version should work.Oh, and btw: I encountered a problem in your OpenScad code when using a new version of OpenScad.You're using an include file named "include.scad".Openscad refuses to load this, because "include" is a reserved keyword. I had to rename it to include2.scad.Also, it isn't possible to include the same file twice. So if you include file 1 in the main file, and you include file 2, that also includes file 1, you'll get an error. This is a normal behavior that most programming languages show. Before including a file, you should test whether it is already included, which is common practice.Thanks for the interesting design, and keep up the good work
what parts were mismatches in the git repo? (might just need to re render and export the .stl's)
thank you for doing my job and replying to the questions :) I must have missed this notification a while back
yes the long ties is the current version that I am working on, I don't have the twisted corners in there yet, because it was just a lot of variables to calculate in for print quality. I have just been using metal rods (I know its not with the methodology of the project) so yes its still a work in project, if you want you can model up the z parts in openscad, just take the old .scad file and change out the difference with the new long ties (look at the rails for inspiration on how to pull this off)I am working on the final details for the official dollo kickstarter, so if you want to wait a little bit you could get a kit of printed parts, and required hardware from there, and you will know that its all of the parts and the right versions. Go and sign up for the reminder email on out site Dollo3d.com
I started printing this a couple of weeks back. Got most of the parts printed for small Dollo, but still need to print some of the bow ties and long ties. Also need to design something to hold the bed.Some of the other parts needed haven't arrived yet, like RAMPS board and hot bed.I've had some minor problems with prints being too tight fit, but that's just problem with my print settings, been tuning them as i go and now the parts seem to be fine. Also the new long ties models have some mismatches that i fixed after forking the github project.I did start assembling the frame today and it does seem quite rigid. My plan is to make the smallest first and then increase the size, starting with the Z-axis.
Hello there! I am actually looking to download and 3d print a Dollo 3d printer. I've been looking at this build and I just have a couple of questions for you.It seems as if you have several different sized dollo printers. In the Dollo-Master zip, does it contain all of the files for the largest sized printer? (I am looking to print a printer with the largest print bed possible)My next question would be the following. You have a list of parts and pieces that cannot be printed. Do you have a suggested place to purchase all of these parts? I wouldn't have any idea where to buy them. Or do you have links to where I can buy each piece?I will be 3d printing this with a Connex 500 Objet printer at my place of work, and I am excited to get started. I am looking forward to hearing back from you. Thank you very much!
Thanks a lot ;)
Considering building a Frankenstein printer with the frame of a Dollo and the rest as a reprap. Haven't seen too many printable frames out there worth building until now.
And I know, it's still in progress, but could you make a tutorial video for someone, who haven't ever builded anything? That would be great... (or just write more detailed -with specific components - instructions) ;) Thanks a lot
This is so awesome! Could you please specify (even I know, I can use any), which motors have you used and (because english isn't my native language), what do you mean with "hobbed thing, gear or bolt"? Thanks a lot! ;)
Wow man! This is exactly what I am looking for! I have a solidoodle 3, but I want to make my own printer. I was just wondering how well this performs before I get to printing the pieces. How's the resolution and reliability of the prints on this? This is a really neat design and I wish you guys the best of luck on your future kickstarter!
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