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  • Disassembling a CD/DVD reader and reusing its parts

    A typo is when you misplace a keystroke once. He calls it a driver several times, & every time so clearly doesn't know the difference between a drive & a driver. A CD or DVD driver is the software used to run the drive. It's a bit of programming code, not a physical device.In instructables, it's always best to know what the thingy you're talking about is really called, so you don't confused readers, google searches, & un-educate the already uninformed.You'd be surprise how many would start calling it a driver after reading an article like this. Then when I get a repair or help call about somebody have a driver problem, we can't help because they're not calling it by the right name. I'd just tell them to download the driver from the manufacturer's website.

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  • Disassembling a CD/DVD reader and reusing its parts

    That's a CD or DVD drive, not driver. A driver is software used to operate the drive, or someone who drives a vehicle.

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  • BettyP3 commented on EvolvedAwesome's instructable Breathe New Life into an Old Computer5 months ago
    Breathe New Life into an Old Computer

    I live in the north where it gets very cold for 3 months, cool for 6 months, & hot/humid for 3 months. On the hot days I have AC. So at home my stuff doesn't get too hot. But my laptops get taken out to some pretty hot environments & still work. Unfortunately most laptops air intake vents are on the bottom, so the worst possible spot for your laptop is actually in your lap, blocking off the cooling vents. So it's always best to use them on a smooth surface that doesn't block off the air vents on the bottom. Or when you feel it's getting hot, set it on a smooth surface or set it aside to cool down a while. Many of the older ibooks were notorious for overheating because they had the tiniest weak cooling fan in them that was weaker than the cheapest graphics card fans. Of course al...see more »I live in the north where it gets very cold for 3 months, cool for 6 months, & hot/humid for 3 months. On the hot days I have AC. So at home my stuff doesn't get too hot. But my laptops get taken out to some pretty hot environments & still work. Unfortunately most laptops air intake vents are on the bottom, so the worst possible spot for your laptop is actually in your lap, blocking off the cooling vents. So it's always best to use them on a smooth surface that doesn't block off the air vents on the bottom. Or when you feel it's getting hot, set it on a smooth surface or set it aside to cool down a while. Many of the older ibooks were notorious for overheating because they had the tiniest weak cooling fan in them that was weaker than the cheapest graphics card fans. Of course all electronics, TVs, & computers will last longer & perform better if you keep them as cool as possible, not just the hard drives.

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  • BettyP3 commented on EvolvedAwesome's instructable Breathe New Life into an Old Computer5 months ago
    Breathe New Life into an Old Computer

    W7 flies fast & smooth on all my machines, even a 2005 1.8ghz single core laptop with only 1.5gb of RAM, & it's original old hard drive. W7 will be supported at least until 2019. Probably longer because I don't see many corporate offices/workspaces, military, space agencies, & governments accepting W8 or higher except for their private & personal use as a communications or fun apps device. But we already have androids, ipads, & iphones for that kind of stuff, so I don't think MS is gonna corner that market with their garbage new OS's. Just disable all services/bloat you don't need. Then deny all OS upgrade updates & telemetry updates. By the time W7 isn't supported anymore, I'm sure something else will have filled the gap if microsoft keeps ignoring what it's bes...see more »W7 flies fast & smooth on all my machines, even a 2005 1.8ghz single core laptop with only 1.5gb of RAM, & it's original old hard drive. W7 will be supported at least until 2019. Probably longer because I don't see many corporate offices/workspaces, military, space agencies, & governments accepting W8 or higher except for their private & personal use as a communications or fun apps device. But we already have androids, ipads, & iphones for that kind of stuff, so I don't think MS is gonna corner that market with their garbage new OS's. Just disable all services/bloat you don't need. Then deny all OS upgrade updates & telemetry updates. By the time W7 isn't supported anymore, I'm sure something else will have filled the gap if microsoft keeps ignoring what it's best paying customers, governments, military, & science labs want & need windows for.

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  • BettyP3 commented on EvolvedAwesome's instructable Breathe New Life into an Old Computer5 months ago
    Breathe New Life into an Old Computer

    My old ACER laptop runs W7 & lighter versions of Linux as good as XP. But when I put W8.1 on it, performance dropped dramatically. It became too slow, & sometimes un-responsive. But I guess it depends on the capabilities of the device. W8.1 will run smoother on dual core or better machines, or a single core of at least 2.5ghz with 2gb of RAM. If it only has a 4200rpm drive, that will be a real bottleneck. A modern high density 5200-7200rpm drive will be twice as fast. High density platters have more data per square inch, so seek, read, & write times are much shorter, & faster. If you must use W8.1 on it, you can disable un-needed services in the services menu to reduce bloat & improve performance.

    Oh yeah. For any serious gaming, a graphics card upgrade will help a lot too... if possible. In many laptops graphics upgrades may not be possible though. Also for older devices, make sure a graphics card is actually compatible & run well with it & the OS on it.

    I've ran & tested most popular versions or Linux, & all windows on many machines. Windows will run just as good & fast as most Linux, or faster - - as long as Windows was installed & set up properly. The main trick is to remove programs & bloat you don't need. Then go to services, & disable all the services & bloat you don't need. With a properly protected windows machine & a little common sense, & you won't get viruses. However with carelessness, & overconfidence, your Linux or apple machine can get viruses & be hacked. Mint is actually pretty resource hungry compared to a streamlined & tweaked Windows installation.

    Dead or defective batteries in laptops could cause some models or laptops to become buggy, or not fully run at all. So try running your laptop with the old battery removed to see if it works better that way. If the battery is dead, or on it's last legs, there is a fire hazard involved with worn Lithium batteries. So you're safer removing the old battery. Amazon & NewEgg have batteries for older devices too, for those afraid of private sellers at ebay.

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  • BettyP3 commented on EvolvedAwesome's instructable Breathe New Life into an Old Computer5 months ago
    Breathe New Life into an Old Computer

    My laptops get banged around a lot, & the mechanical drives continue to run flawlessly for many years. Now if we dropped them onto the pavement or concrete, it might kill them, but I'm sure if that happened there would be much more broken than just the hard drive in it.

    Yeah everybody's an IT expert at these places if they're a gamer or know how to add RAM to their computer, or hookup their router. You're not an expert. Do your research. Affordable SSDs for regular consumers haven't even been on the market as long as some mechanical hard drives that are still running today, so it is not reasonable or logical to make such a claim. Do you even know how an SSD works & the physics of them? If you did, you would know it is impossible for it to last as long as a good mechanical drive, unless you hardly use it. Even the designers of SSDs openly admit that they have a far lower read/write lifetime before failure than a good mechanical drive.

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  • The simplest FM transmitter... Without coil/inductor

    30-35mhz is used by some state & county Sherriff & fire department communications. The FCC will be arriving at your door with a big fine or jail sentence by pumping a 30-35mhz square wave into the air.

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  • BettyP3 commented on EvolvedAwesome's instructable Breathe New Life into an Old Computer5 months ago
    Breathe New Life into an Old Computer

    SSD trim support isn't applied properly on most older machines, so that SSD will wear out real fast. Even with proper TRIM support, a good WD mechanical hard drive will still last at least 10 times longer. With a 7200rpm high density WD mechanical drive & the maximum fastest RAM you can put in the machine, the programs are running off the RAM instead of the drive most of the time. Except during boot time, it will run just as fast than with a SSD. With a WD high density mechanical drive, it's cheaper per GB of storage, more reliable, & will last ages.

    I'm picking up 3ghz dual core machines with 4gb of RAM in working order for under $100 because people think their obsolete, or because they got a virus, the hard drive is wearing out, or it won't play their kid's newest most intense games - - their loss, my profit.

    Any 11 year old computer will run XP, W7, W8, & any of the light forms of Linux around just fine. With XP make sure you leave the firewall on & use one of the many decent free compatible antivirus on it. Disable services in your services menu that you don't need to make windows really fly. Google tutorials on which services are good to disable. No need to switch out drives or RAM unless they're broke. However, you need at least 1gb of RAM in there or it will lag & lock up. If using 2 or more RAM cards, try to use a matched set for best performance. Mis-matches won't perform as well. Also if it's only a 4200rpm drive move up to a modern high density 5200rpm for almost double the speed. That old machine may not have trim support or run SSDs properly, so an SSD will wear out re...see more »Any 11 year old computer will run XP, W7, W8, & any of the light forms of Linux around just fine. With XP make sure you leave the firewall on & use one of the many decent free compatible antivirus on it. Disable services in your services menu that you don't need to make windows really fly. Google tutorials on which services are good to disable. No need to switch out drives or RAM unless they're broke. However, you need at least 1gb of RAM in there or it will lag & lock up. If using 2 or more RAM cards, try to use a matched set for best performance. Mis-matches won't perform as well. Also if it's only a 4200rpm drive move up to a modern high density 5200rpm for almost double the speed. That old machine may not have trim support or run SSDs properly, so an SSD will wear out real fast where a nice WD drive will last you 10 years or more. Get the most RAM your machine will support, so the programs are running off the RAM once loaded. That way except for boot up times, the machine will run just as fast with a WD mechanical drive as it will with an SSD. The WD mechanical drive is cheaper per GB, & will last a lot longer.

    Window 10 is garbage. You're better off without it. It may be handy for some phones or a small touch screen device, but not for a real computer. It's just a malware platform for adware & spyware, & hardly an OS at all.

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  • Privacy monitor hacked from an old LCD Monitor

    I take apart & fix this kind of stuff all the time for a living. An LCD monitor or TV may have an LED backlight these days instead of the older florescent backlighting of a few years ago, but it's still an LCD display, regardless of what kind of light is behind the display. A true LED, oLED, & TFT display does not use liquid crystals found in LCD displays & do not have a backlight behind the screen. They use a different technology entirely, so polarizing the light or using a polarized light filter wont make any difference. With oLED, LED, & TFT, displays, every pixel is a tiny LED that gives off it's own light & color. With LCD displays, the crystals & the polarized light filer, allow or block the light to shine through from a light source behind the screen. This...see more »I take apart & fix this kind of stuff all the time for a living. An LCD monitor or TV may have an LED backlight these days instead of the older florescent backlighting of a few years ago, but it's still an LCD display, regardless of what kind of light is behind the display. A true LED, oLED, & TFT display does not use liquid crystals found in LCD displays & do not have a backlight behind the screen. They use a different technology entirely, so polarizing the light or using a polarized light filter wont make any difference. With oLED, LED, & TFT, displays, every pixel is a tiny LED that gives off it's own light & color. With LCD displays, the crystals & the polarized light filer, allow or block the light to shine through from a light source behind the screen. This will only work with LCD technology, don't ruin your oLED or LED screen just because some troll here likes to see people destroy their screens. Believe me, it won't work unless you have an LCD screen. If your screen is backlit by LEDS, it's still an LCD screen, not an LED screen, regardless of what the sales people said when you bought it. Likewise, don't screw with a plasma TV either. They don't use LCDs or have a backlight either. Just like true LED displays, each pixel is it's own light source, & there is no backlighting or polarizing.

    Google the model number. The specs should say if it's an LCD display, but the sales people will tell you they're all LED displays even when they're not. LCDs are not really LED displays just because they have LED backlighting instead of older florescent, it's just an LED backlit LCD. If it's LCD it will work. Open the back. If it has white flourecent or LED backlighting behind the screen, it's LCD.... Except for very large & bright displays, the may be a rear projection DLP display. OIf you see a bright bulb, lens, or possibly a mirror in there it's probably DLP. DLP will also not be a thin display. The thinnest DLP rear projection display is 11" deep. They or their front-projection models are preferred more by hi-end home theater buffs because of their high contrast ratios, br...see more »Google the model number. The specs should say if it's an LCD display, but the sales people will tell you they're all LED displays even when they're not. LCDs are not really LED displays just because they have LED backlighting instead of older florescent, it's just an LED backlit LCD. If it's LCD it will work. Open the back. If it has white flourecent or LED backlighting behind the screen, it's LCD.... Except for very large & bright displays, the may be a rear projection DLP display. OIf you see a bright bulb, lens, or possibly a mirror in there it's probably DLP. DLP will also not be a thin display. The thinnest DLP rear projection display is 11" deep. They or their front-projection models are preferred more by hi-end home theater buffs because of their high contrast ratios, brightness, & sharpness. When you go to a modern cinema, you're most likely viewing a DLP projection.

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  • Privacy monitor hacked from an old LCD Monitor

    It WILL NOT work on LEDs, TFTs, oLEDs, CRTs, or DLPs. It has to be an LCD screen (Liquid Crystal Display), because the crystals work with polarized light & a polarized light filter (the film).

    It WILL NOT work on LEDs, TFTs, oLEDs, CRTs, or DLPs. It has to be an LCD screen (Liquid Crystal Display), because the crystals work with polarized light & a polarized light filter (the film).

    Heat will destroy most LCD screens. The liquid crystals in it can't take much heat. Beware some LCDs have plastic, not glass in them, or layers of both. Solvents or paint thinner will destroy the plastic, & ruin the screen.

    Yep. You can reverse the polarized light filter too, so you get a negative image. On a calculator with black numbers, they would be white or light grey numbers, & the background turns black.

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