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OK, I'll try. Bill
I'm trying to stay retired, but projects pop up and I can't say no. I had a Popular Mechanics magazine from the late 40's that announced what became the ball point pen. But all they said was that a new writing device had been invented that could write under water.
Dumpster diving can be a gold mine at many companies. A friend of mine worked in R&D at a manufacturing company. He collected a lot of equipment and stainless fasteners from projects that did not work out.
Glad one of my Instructables could help you. Your son could climb a big hill with a 24 volt drive!Bill
It isn't a project. I entered a contest several years ago and they needed a video from me. I would have deleted it, but due to a glitch was not able to. If you want to see the solar powered Stirling engine running, there is a short video on YouTube. Just enter my name and "solar powered Stirling engine".Thanks for your interestBill Wells
First, where are you located? I hope I included enough metric units.Part of my problem is that I made the cannon four years ago and forgot much.1. The office tape may be a problem. For covers, I used a very thin plastic film, the green material you see in step 5 (and other steps). It needs to "pop" when punctured. The covers are held in place by vacuum; turn on vacuum pump, then hold one cover at suction end, have someone hold cover on discharge end while pump is running.2. Make sure the ball is all the way at the suction end of the tube before firing. Good luck and let me know how it goes.Bill
Thank you for your comment.Using US standard pipe sizes based upon ASTM D1785 specifications, following are PVC pipe dimensions:1 1/2" PVC pipe, schedule 40 1.610" 40.9mm1 1/2" PVC pipe, schedule 80 1.500" 38.1mm And the standard ping pong ball diameter is 1.57" 40 mmSo, using schedule 40 pipe there should be about 1mm clearance for the ball to fit into the pipe. You may be using schedule 80 pipe, which indeed will be too small. Good luck and best wishes.
Thanks kndclark.Yes, I believe you are correct. Close to speed of sound but not quite. But the title does get attention. I hope somewhere In small print I said "close" or "maybe".I believe supersonic speed could be reached with compressed air on one side and vacuum on the other. I have not tried tat yet! Bill
Good thoughts , Carpenter. Someone in my woodturning club had the design details, but of course now I have lost my copy. Darn, now that I need it. (1) There are a lot of carbide tipped turning tools out there now, like the Easy Wood tools. And I occasionally abuse some of my saw blades without damaging the carbide tip. Have knocked the saw tooth tip off, however - another story.(2) Good point about the tooth profile. (3) Yes, we would need to consider the rake angle, good point (no pun intended). Maybe I will finally find the plans.
I have also seen a design for making a woodturning parting tool from a saw blade, but incorporating the carbide tipped tooth. Thanks for this Instructable, I need a marking knife.
"Awsome"? "Awesome"? I didn't notice. What I liked, other than the design, was learning a new word: TUBIFY.
Your cookies look much better than the woodworking and electronics projects I usually look at on Instructables. And you do not have to think about blocking these "cookies" from your computer!
Fantastic! But now my car will be forever banished from the garage.
Great, and your design raises the cooling fan inlet so air can get in. On my Dell the fan inlet is pretty much blocked right there at the back.
Very nice, and drilling the hole in the corner is a valuable feature. For those nice tight glue joints you made, you do not need much clamping force so "spreading the angle" should not be a problem, and you have the metal square behind to check. Good work, thank you.
Be sure to use original JB Weld, not the "quick" variety.
Really good shop storage option; I like the lip at the top which keeps the boxes stacked.
HA! good joke.
Oh, I wondered... my misinterpretation. Maybe we should go metric and say your motor is between 2kw and 6kw. I think you need a major scale-up here, that is like 10 times the power I tested. I doubt the brake blocks I used would work in your case. It would be best if you did not just clamp down on the motor shaft only, you should have something like a brake drum. Remember the key equation: Power = torque x RPM.
My workbench is much more messy now compared with four years ago.
Maybe not too much, in my tests, the AC motor tested 0.15 HP, the DC motor 0.35 HP. Your engine I assume is 3/8 HP, or 0.375 HP. Pretty close. The main thing to be aware of (and be careful of) is that when you clamp down on the Prony brake it will heat up fast; and even faster for higher HP engines. You may want to make modest changes to the design, just use the equations I listed. Good luck with it.
Your bearing press jig is the key; I'm going to have to rig up something for tapping straight. I'm using the same cutter as yours. I made a decent threaded box with my prototype #1 jig, but it only has a 1" x 6" long lead screw. I would like to use a long section of 1" 8tpi all thread as you did, but can not find it locally - it needs to be perfectly straight, as yours seems to be. Where did you get that all thread rod? ThanksBill
Thanks for your comments and valuable suggestions. Yes, I am now rotating the LCD more often, which does help. My "new" problem with the S9900 is that Nikon packed so many buttons and dials that my fat fingers often hit the wrong keys. But I'm learning...Bill
Thanks Daniel - Patching only goes so far, as you know. This year I broke down and had a new roof put on! I live in Olympia. Bill
Thanks BtheBike. Yes, should help in both Winter and Summer. The only downside, of course, is that it will block your view out those sliding doors!
Nice work, including your guitar music.So you cut 8 tpi threads with your jig; have you tried other lead screws for cutting other tpi? And did you post photos of your tapping press addition? I'm ordering the 60 degree cutter tonight, so I'm on my way to a threading jig for my lathe.Thanks much.
Nice project, thanks. Your method is better (in some ways) than using a machinist's V head square, which is small for large items.But I initially stopped at the first method, with carpenter's square and speed square. I think I understand the method, do you just measure out 1/2 way, draw a line, and repeat?
Thanks - I should have figured that out, obviously did not.
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