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You have to heat the steel enough to change the color (think red/orange) to change the temper. Grinding in one spot long enough to heat it so that it turns blue in a small spot is BAD.
My daughter had them online when she was selling them. I don't know if there are still any floating around the internets.
We ordered one from China pre-made. It goes up to 30V and 10A. It was less than $70. Perhaps not as much fun as making your own, but a LOT easier. It has adjustable voltage and current. We used it to anodize aluminum.
Well, I don't have a $100 power supply just sitting around. I can buy the complete unit for less than what I would have to spend to get a power supply that I don't have. It appears that SOMEONE else is interested in purchasing one.
I helped my daughter make some lighted signs. They were bead board with a 1x4 ripped to 3" as a border. We did have trouble finding lights, but we would hit all of the local stores and buy them when ever we could find a 25 light set for less than $7.
We hit an antique store last week end. We found what appears to be an old army cabinet. It has 36 compartments about 4x3" and about 8" deep. There are locking lids on each box for the compartments. It was $25, which was a steal. I have been thinking about making something like that out of steel. I can easily cut the parts on the CNC plasma table, but would probably have to make some new fingers for the finger break to bend the tabs sharp enough to hold the boxes.
Not sure about the rest of the world, but in the US, they were popular for a few years in the 1970's, but not since then.
I always grill steaks. And I NEVER put any flavorings on steak. Steak comes with its own flavor. If you don't like steak flavor, you are buying poor steaks or are a chicken eater.
Where do you get the scrap hard wood? I built a house, with custom cabinets ( a kitchen, two bath rooms, and a utility room) and didn't have that much scrap left.
We have done anodizing with mixed results. I guess the next step may be powder coating.
The pigments has to have the correct binders in them to fuse together when heating. The baking of the coating gives off toxic fumes that you probably don't want in your house and obviously not on your food. They are also explosive, so you should not use a gas oven, only electric or some other heat source that is not a source of ignition.
The most plausible explanation of pork butt that I have come across is that in old England, a barrel was called a butt and the pork butt looks like a barrel, so it is called a butt. May not be correct, but close enough and even believable for me.
I am not sure how he cut his tubing, but my son and I made a CNC plasma table last year. We didn't have a horizontal band saw yet, so I cut all of the pieces (42 out of 2x3x.125" rectangular tubing) with an angle grinder. It took most of an afternoon. One piece had about 1/16" taper. The rest was good enough. It only took one cutting disc.
Amazon is now showing them in stock.
No. The patch will be less strong than undamaged gypsum board. Perhaps you could make a decorative wood or metal piece that is larger than the current hole and put it over the hole (before or after you patch the hole) and then attach the curtain rod to that piece.
I made a couple of prototypes for my daughter. They hang with french cleats. We have not gone into production yet (she wants a bunch). I am helping my son with his projects, like making some wheels wider for a pulling truck, making a house for his electronics for the CNC plasma table we built last summer, and a cart for his tig welder.
You can purchase kid proof locks that are operated with magnets and the best thing is that they don't require batteries. Sometimes simplest is bestest.
I have a big expensive (for home shop standards) drill press. I bought a 5" milling vice from HD for less than $100. Obviously it is not good enough to mill with (and I wouldn't want to destroy my drill press milling steel) but the vise it good enough to position the material to drill or tap holes. All milling is done on the mill. You should probably use a hard wood for the parts that slide and put paste wax or burnish the wood where it slides and the most precision is needed.
I have thought about installing solar panels. We don't have an AHJ to deal with. I am not sure what I would have to do with the electric co. They seem to be easy to work with. When I moved here, they installed a pole and told me when I was ready for electricity, they would have someone stop by and install the meter. They also told me that If I need to turn off the electricity to just pull the meter and tell them to stop by and install a new seal when I was finished.
We always fill fuel tanks with water when cutting them. I had never thought about it, but when we were cutting a gas tank on a junked Ford Explorer (but of course what other kinds of Ford Explorer are there) with a plasma torch, my son got a good shock when the torch got wet.
How much does the shelf weigh? I don't have a band saw or nice sander like that. I do have a CNC Plasma table. I was thinking about making one out of 16 ga steel. I know cold rolled steel is 18.6 times as dense as pine, so 16 gauge steel should weight about twice as much as 9/16" pine.
I use LibreCad. You can draw full size, or to scale. When you print it out, you can scale the printout or print full size.
I made one a long time ago with an automobile coil, a relay, a capacitor, and a 12 V battery. It was portable. Mostly made it to make sure that defective parts that I sent back for warranty replacement were determined to be bad by the vendor.
Cool, he has a band saw. My son keeps talking about getting one but I have run out of room in my shop. It would have been nice to have a band saw when we built a 4'x9' plasma table. The chop saw wasn't accurate enough and I had to cut 42 pieces of 2x3x1/4 tubing with an angle grinder. At least everything was within 1/16" when we got done.
A forge is the thing that heats the metal. Forging is the process of transforming the metal.
Probably the easiest would be to get a block of wood that is twice the width and length of the radius that you want for the corner. Then drill a hole in the center of the block that has a diameter of twice the radius of the curve. Then you get four pieces of wood with the correct radius that you can tack into each corner.
You must maintain the correct and uniform distance from the nozzle to the work. You adjust the wire speed to keep the wire from hitting the work too hard.
Oxygen is NOT combustable. You need to open ALL valves fully except for fuel valves (acetylene and propane) because some valves do not seal around the stem when they are partially open.
With concrete, 'cut it' is properly refereed to as screeding.
This has a lot more to do with how to hold a threaded rod without destroying the threads than it has to do with removing a stuck nut. This is only ONE instance of a stuck nut. I found this instruct-able and was severely disappointed. A more responsible title would be "Securely holding a threaded rod". The only decent rust penetrating "oil" is Kroil. Also, when you clamp the locked nuts in the vice, ONLY clamp the one towards the nut you are trying to remove. If you notice in your picture, the flats on the two nuts are not aligned. When you clamp both, you can either loosen or overtighten the locking nuts. By holding the inside nut, it self tightens itself against the other nut.
If you want to keep the hydrogen and oxygen gas separate tor try to use if for a torch and mix it at the torch, you can separate the anode and cathode horizontally. Oxygen will form at one and hydrogen at the other (it has been over 30 years since I got my BS in Chem and I have never been employed as a chemist or I could tell you which would form at which electrode.) Just collect the separate gases at each electrode, and mix them where you want them.
I smoke a lot of other stuff, but to me, smoking ribs does not enhance them in any way. If you notice, the above cooking takes almost 3 hours if not more. I run the grill about 250 degrees, so it is low and slow.
Dude, you don't have a ground in that box, only a neutral. You can't wire a NEMA 6-50 to that box. You did get lucky on one part. 8 ga is ONLY good for 45 amps, but with a welder, you can de-rate the wire. YOU have to put clamps on the wire where it goes through holes to prevent the wire from pulling out and rubbing to wear away the insulation. You also mount your recepticle in a box. I ALWAYS use 6 ga wire and 50 amp breakers for wiring a NEMA 6-50 or 14-50.
Since the two blades of the recepticle are both hot, it does not matter.
I used to go to the trouble of smoking my ribs. I use turbinado sugar (probably shouldn't post that, now everyone will have better ribs) and just do them in a grill. 45 minutes bone side down, 30 minutes bone side up, and then wrap them in foil until done (about 1 hr 30 minutes).
No. It is a complete tested $2800 kit with electronics, computer, controller, and 620 oz motors that he is using.
With tape and plastic straps on there, in no time the transformer will fly off in an unintened direction and screw up something other than what you were trying to screw up. If you want to use tape to attach the transformer, use the tape to attach it to the nearest set of balls so that it isn't swung with much force.
My son and I are building a CNC plasma table. The working area is 4'x8' He is opting to buy the controls.
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