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  • ChadB18 commented on c3r3al's instructable Wood Lichtenberg Figures1 week ago
    Wood Lichtenberg Figures

    My advice: Add a momentary switch on the 120 side which feeds the transformer (on the hot side; switching a neutral is bad practice) and run that switch out to an electrical pvc conduit cut to fit your grip, fit it with some end caps and install the momentary switch into one of the end caps on the conduit. Then you will have some isolation from the HV side, you can stand back before energizing it, and it won't stay energized if you drop your homemade handheld switch. Much more safe!

    Higher current at that same voltage will produce a greater effect than a lower current will produce. Higher current = greater danger, though. So be careful! Those currents are easily high enough to be lethal at that voltage so it is a good practice to keep your left hand in your pocket when playing with that kind of power, just so you don't reflexively grab a conductive surface should something unexpected and startling occur.

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  • ChadB18 commented on Denise Flasz's instructable Arduino Kirlian device7 months ago
    Arduino Kirlian device

    I think the Arduino or similar micro controllers are perfect for this kind of application, if you intend to add a little automation and finesse to the program. I'd say have the controller also switch power on and off to a light source (make the room dark during filming and light when done) and start a run timer for 30 seconds or so, after a brief delay, once triggered, that would stop the process once the time limit is reached.Then program a few safeties and an emergency stop tied to a conveniently located button and, viola, you have a pretty slick party favor and maybe a little side hustle at craft fairs and the like.All easily written into the existing code shown in this build.Just need to add some caps in parallel with the primary and then precisely choose my frequency and this thin...

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    I think the Arduino or similar micro controllers are perfect for this kind of application, if you intend to add a little automation and finesse to the program. I'd say have the controller also switch power on and off to a light source (make the room dark during filming and light when done) and start a run timer for 30 seconds or so, after a brief delay, once triggered, that would stop the process once the time limit is reached.Then program a few safeties and an emergency stop tied to a conveniently located button and, viola, you have a pretty slick party favor and maybe a little side hustle at craft fairs and the like.All easily written into the existing code shown in this build.Just need to add some caps in parallel with the primary and then precisely choose my frequency and this thing can really produce!

    This whole thing can also fit into a lunchbox (minus the supply), which is a major plus, and really opens up a lot of opportunities for experimentation due to this portability.Honestly, with a bit of tuning and refining, I think you could sell these things for a profit. Let people either purchase or produce their own clear discharge plates or just use them the old fashioned way with photo film and no clear discharge plate, and let your hobby make you some money.

    So this thing seems to work at about any speed and at voltages as low as about 6.5VDC, but only at higher amperages. Those of you familiar with Ohm's Law already knew that.I had a steady machinegun rate at "delay(10);" and could not go lower because I blew my SSR with nearly 10A at 24VDC at that speed while running it through my homemade discharge plate comprised of two silicone sealed panes of glass filled woth water and a copper wire running along the inside perimeter within the water sealed between the two panes. The plate works great, actually. I just need a SSR rated at 10A or higher this time.Anyway, this works great and a little programming to add the use of switches or buttons to quickly change delay settings or shut off the pulses without having to re-flash the con...

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    So this thing seems to work at about any speed and at voltages as low as about 6.5VDC, but only at higher amperages. Those of you familiar with Ohm's Law already knew that.I had a steady machinegun rate at "delay(10);" and could not go lower because I blew my SSR with nearly 10A at 24VDC at that speed while running it through my homemade discharge plate comprised of two silicone sealed panes of glass filled woth water and a copper wire running along the inside perimeter within the water sealed between the two panes. The plate works great, actually. I just need a SSR rated at 10A or higher this time.Anyway, this works great and a little programming to add the use of switches or buttons to quickly change delay settings or shut off the pulses without having to re-flash the controller or pull the USB makes this an ideal adaptation of this logic for Kirlian Photography.I have found that having a smaller discharge plate makes for brighter coronas without needing to increase the output voltage to the plate.Are you still using this setup or have you moved on?Also, have you tried driving that ignition coil using a micro controller and mosfets in h-bridge configuration? H-bridge in some kind of oscillating mode, but I forget the official name for it, just now. Anyway, it is supposed to be a circuit for changing DC motor direction and is said to be better at driving coils for bigger potentials.

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  • 12V-180kV: A Battery Powered Marx Generator (and introduction to electronics)

    Well, maybe with a really BIG Marx Generator, but I have tried to use two different Marx Generators for Kirlian experiments (one of them discharging around 100KVDC), but did not notice an effects which suggested that they were working. Kirlian photography machines all seem to utilize high voltages AC and not DC which seems to suggest that AC is what actually works. Too bad I can't ever find a non-rectified flyback. Guess an ignition coil is still the best way to go DIY and at least they are pretty cheap on Amazon.

    Did this work for you? I have not found that coils work very well with this kind of pulsed high voltage, but I am not very experienced with building coil guns so maybe I did something wrong. Never did try adding a cap in parallel with the coil so maybe that would have made a difference?Anyway, I sure would like to know if you had any successes with this.

    So I have built a mere 7-stage Marx Generator and it produces somewhere near 100KVDC at the business end. When I fire this thing off, just by itself, in my office, my computer about 10 feet away acts REAL funny! My monitors turn on and off, windows get moved around. Some windows get closed while new ones get opened and, sometimes, I completely lose one of my monitors until I perform a reboot and entirely reconfigure my video settings to, once again, recognize my multi-monitor adapter. I built a 9-stage handheld variant and it will also cause these effects using 2 AA batteries as the supply source so I know this is EMF and not shorting high frequency, high-voltage to outlet ground.Point is, I'm not sure this setup requires a coil, at all, to be effective for your stated goal, though ...

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    So I have built a mere 7-stage Marx Generator and it produces somewhere near 100KVDC at the business end. When I fire this thing off, just by itself, in my office, my computer about 10 feet away acts REAL funny! My monitors turn on and off, windows get moved around. Some windows get closed while new ones get opened and, sometimes, I completely lose one of my monitors until I perform a reboot and entirely reconfigure my video settings to, once again, recognize my multi-monitor adapter. I built a 9-stage handheld variant and it will also cause these effects using 2 AA batteries as the supply source so I know this is EMF and not shorting high frequency, high-voltage to outlet ground.Point is, I'm not sure this setup requires a coil, at all, to be effective for your stated goal, though it might be even more effective if one were to be used as one end of the main spark-gap.

    If you scavenge one of those bug zapper rackets and use that circuit as your supply source, you can make a Marx Generator which runs off of 2 AA batteries which would make it a lot more portable. I have, personally, built a 9-stage "hand-held" Marx Generator which uses one of those circuits and it works very well, considering the power-limitations of those bug-zapper circuits.

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