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Yep, I understand AC and DC current very well. I've just not added the code because I can never seem to find time to play with those sensors, that is changing very soon and I'll post up what I have built. I have some that are just sensors with LED?Neopixel displays that change colors to let you know what the moisture levels are as well as some RF models that communicate with my Vera to notify via text/email along with the LED/Neopixel visual aspect.
Thanks for the comment MikB. There are other things that can be done to help save the sensor, like every other time the sensor runs, change the polarity of the current. I've seen some arduino code that will do this before but I've never taken the time to add it to my code. (Which I will in the future) The reason for corrosion happening so fast in my case is, proof of concept designs in soil (no plant) probing way more often than needed. I'll be posting my plant sensor design and instructable soon. Thanks again for your wisdom and wise words.
If you change the polarity of the current every time you probe, that would constitute AC, although VERY low frequency :) It will do wonders for the life of the probe.The worst case is a constant DC current, just left there to eat the sensors :(
Damaged Soil Moisture Sensor Upgrade
They "corrode" because of electrolysis. The metal from one electrode is driven off into the soil of the plant, which is not great news for the plants :)This is because most of these soil/water level sensors use DC to sense. The only way to really stop this is to use an AC sensing current, or very intermittent probing with a low DC current (which will delay the inevitable). Either way, it is slightly harder work.
DIY Bluetooth Speaker
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