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Top points for creativity and ingenuity. My only problem is that for me, time is money. I can pick up a combo disc/belt sander at Canadian Tire for 130 bucks and have it running in the time it takes to plug it in. It would take me forever to figure all this out. I'm more of a tool user than a tool maker so it's probably just me. Now if you can figure out a way to run one on lunar energy since most of my creative time occurs at night - I'm all ears. Otherwise... nice job!
Mini Vise in Minutes
Excellent! This is going to come in handy for chip and relief carving. Very scale-able, simple design easy to reproduce. Thank you so much.
Firing natural clay WITHOUT A KILN
See now, THIS is what I'm talking about!! Perfect! A great idea executed in total simplicity - just the way clay should be done. This one is not only going on the to do list, it will also be on the keep doing list. Thank you so much.
Quit complaining - you married her.
Arizona? California? New Mexico? Up here in the north, anything bigger than 10x10 requires a building permit and a poured slab at minimum - even if your building on the hardest ground around... all walls must be anchored into concrete footings and not just bolted to wood stakes and that part I agree with. With a huge opening at your entrance, the right wind wouldn't have a problem picking that sucker up or ripping out panels... rivets might pass for fasteners but there's a whole mathematical equation for weight/material thickness/shear forces/pull forces, etc... that needs to be sorted first and you will always need more of rivets than screws or bolts because of their limited diameter they can't (under code) be placed to hold more than a specified surface area or weight with typical...see more »Arizona? California? New Mexico? Up here in the north, anything bigger than 10x10 requires a building permit and a poured slab at minimum - even if your building on the hardest ground around... all walls must be anchored into concrete footings and not just bolted to wood stakes and that part I agree with. With a huge opening at your entrance, the right wind wouldn't have a problem picking that sucker up or ripping out panels... rivets might pass for fasteners but there's a whole mathematical equation for weight/material thickness/shear forces/pull forces, etc... that needs to be sorted first and you will always need more of rivets than screws or bolts because of their limited diameter they can't (under code) be placed to hold more than a specified surface area or weight with typical hardware spacing between them... sorry to say, your little garage would never make it here. Very entertaining instructable though and took a lot of effort to do. One question - how is it in the heat with that desert sun beating down on it - how are you managing to keep it cool inside?
How to make a Swedish Fire Torch (AKA Canadian Candle)
Not off hand but I can surely ask him. I do know that he uses a two stage process similar to a marine finish where the first mixture he uses is thin which absorbs deep into the grain to seal the wood. The second is a thicker waxy/oily concoction that combines with the first and gives a nice polished finish. I have no idea how it all works together at a molecular level - all I do know is that his finished pieces are virtually water proof - requiring only infrequent buffs with the latter of the two. The pine tar stuff he cooks up is used in both the first and second compounds.
Interesting that you should say that. I know a gent who harvests pine gum that he heat reduces and mixes with his beeswax. He says what you said about quick absorption. He prefers it to using the processed (store bought) turpentine which is derived from these gums.
Any plant material that has a woody stock will dry and burn well, but as others have pointed out - you need to be careful with allergies and sensitivities to certain plants. It's one thing to touch something that gives you a reaction - it's something far more nasty to inhale the smoke, air born oils or ash from plants that you or your neighbours are susceptible to.
Thought for a second there that you found a use for my ex... lol! You can also stick it in your compost pile if you have an abundance of it and as long as it's not toxic blue-green algae. As for the fire efforts, maybe adding dry grass, straw or small twigs to the bricks and perhaps downsize the bricks for faster and more thorough drying. Same concern for burning if the algae you have is a toxic variety.
Yep, me too. 9v's aren't that much bigger and they not only keep your fingers out of the flames on start up - they're also easier to handle with leather mitts on in the dead of winter.
Hmmm, I guess it all comes down to which you'd rather have next to your jugular... a sharp blade or a hot flame. In a WORSE case scenario - the flame could catch your hair on fire or burn your skin resulting in months of medical trauma and a disfigured future, whereas the blade could prove to be instantly fatal. Geeze, hard call. Lol! Glad I'm a girl.
It's better to pile up a mound of earth above grade and dig a hole in that (keeping the hole above grade also). By digging into the soil - once the fire is lit you can actually set root structures on fire. If you have very dry or rocky soil those roots can continue to burn long after your fire has gone out.
Actually... http://www.texasbbqforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=5990 Once you've burned off the zinc galvanizing you're good to go! One good hot burn should do it.
Awesome! I've came into a box of "Constantine's collection of rare fine woods" cabinet wood samples in veneer thicknesses. I've been wondering what I could do with it all and you've just given me the answer. Thank you! If I could ask one question... How did the super glue hold up? Have you tried any other types of adhesives?
Saw Crocs on sale this past week for 12.99. I guess you have to pick them up in the fall/winter before they flip their stock. Although - for the same price you'd have enough material to resole Croc's for the entire family and probably make them flip flops for next summer I suppose.
Absolutely! I get it. Just my own thoughts on the entire process I suppose. There are so many types of clay available, so readily and at really low cost that I would indeed reserve this kind of effort to a 'true to history' experience and carry it through to firing. It's not you - it's me (lol!) Once again... a plethora of good information provided... well done.
Really good information here. I have to say though that I'm a little disappointed that you went to all the trouble of sourcing and processing natural clay and then tossed it into a store bought kiln. I'd only go through all of this if it were to all end up in a natural firing process as well. Otherwise it's a little like building a log home and putting vinyl siding on it. Just my opinion and not a criticism.
Will do! I've spilled that thinner stuff on clothing before when varnishing a door and it never came out - so I have high hopes that it will work when intentionally saturating a bit of cloth. Lol! I have a football team logo tee that I'd like to put in the bottom of a serving tray for game days.:)
Awesome idea. That epoxy stuff is expensive, doesn't store very well and is infamous for turning yellow. I'm going to give this a try with a really thin liquid crystal clear varnish instead. The finished weight should be lighter as well. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Well, in Canada - they have stopped minting pennies so that might be a viable legal option. I gotta say though - at almost $3 bucks a square foot there are lots of other, more attractive and dare I say less tedious options available for a unique desk top. Just sayin'
Nice job! I made one a couple years ago that I still wear today. I used a small piece of cedar root from a huge root ball found at the edge of an old farm field - in case you're looking for more material ;). Very tight grain, no splits or cracks and the only finish I've ever used is to rub it with beeswax every so often. No oils or sealers.
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