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A lm317 is a linear power supply chip, so it converts the waste power to heat. If you are building a battery powered bench power supply you might take a look at a switching power supply instead. Switching power supplies aren't as smooth as linears, but are significantly more efficient.It is possible, if more expensive, to have the best of both worlds. Use a buck-boost switching power supply to create the input voltage 1-2v higher than your desired output and feed that into a linear. That gives you nice smooth linear power without burning a bunch of extra power just to make waste heat.
The difference between evil and diabolical for this project is a bottle of red or blue loctite. :D
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>> you can go to Cabalas or Walmart and get one ready-madeThe ones at Cabelas and Wal-mart both have flimsy wire handles that break the first time you try to use it. This i'ble uses Nylon loops instead of coat-hanger wire, a fantastic improvement.This unit is better than the wire "survival" saws too. They have the same problem: a flimsy connection between the cutty bit and the not-cutty bit your soft squishy mammal paws are supposed to hold.
>> Interesting that you get an adverse reaction to dronesFrom experience I can say that this has a lot to do with the looks of the plane. A grey military styled FPV platform will get more negative reactions compared to the same model covered in rainbow-colored monokote. One "looks" scary, the other "looks" like a toy.Obligatory youtube video from my son's channel.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7v7LUZS9zI
>> Anyway you propose to buy a 110$ plane for learning and after moving to a 75$ ?The first plane is a trainer; a plane designed for the tribulations of a new pilot learning to fly. It has a low stall speed, large dihedral for self-righting, and is made of EPO foam. The last point, the material, is important because the plane can be hot-glued back together many times after crashes and hard landings.>> And how about the vital point of "Return to home" function ?If you are following the FAA rules (less than 400 feet elevation and line-of-sight) and you respect your radio's low signal warning then it is possible to fly FPV without this _expensive_ functionality.
For a camper you do not want the batteries to be parallel. The household battery is a deep-discharge battery. You can run it almost flat without damage but the high-current load of starting the engine can kill it. The Starting battery is a high-current battery. It will fail very rapidly if discharged repeatedly. They should not be in parallel because you lose the advantages of both. Even worse, running your starting battery down can leave you stranded; unable to start the engine.There are "Battery Isolator" relays designed so the engine can charge both batteries, but the household battery takes the load when the engine is off. That is the optimal setup for these.
The way he has the two household batteries connected now is correct. The only difference in the load on the two should be the negligible internal resistance of the cables and connections.
@sbrown9578If you are in Middle Tennesse or North Atlanta, I can give them a good home.
I've used a cd-rom drive motor to make a gyroscope and for an RC Plane.
Gyroscope: I'll post an ible on it when I get home. Don't expect much, I just wanted a better toy to explain gyro precession to my little ones.
What application did/do you use to make your cad drawings/models?
Solar-OSE: Solar concentrator for steam generation
Build a Microwave Transformer Homemade Stick/Arc Welder