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Your camera should have a "white balance" setting -- that will let you set the color temperature. Check the manual (physical or online).One thing that will help is putting reflectors around your light -- you're wasting a lot of light into the room away from your diffusion paper. A simple paper shield lined with the shiny side of aluminum foil will help redirect the light through your diffusion. It will also boost the intensity of the light coming through the diffusion without changing the quality of the light.A white reflector card put right under your camera lens will help add "fill" light to the front of your subject items, too. This may be necessary for glass or chrome items, too, and add some extra shape to the object.Good luck!:-J
I've owned this original lamp before, and the housing was designed to cool a 250-W tungsten halogen lamp. There's plenty of air flow through the lamp.:-J
Your original premise that "The bulb was burned out and the base was a rare twist lock that is no longer available" is wrong. This lamp can take a variety of standard bayonet lamps: The ANSI codes for them are ESS (250W), FEV (200W), ESP (150W) and ESR (100W).Were I to do this, I'd place the LED & heat sink where the reflector is for a greater flood-to-spot capability. And this particular lamp design would dissipate the heat from the heat sink very well.Good job.
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