Tell us about yourself!
HackerBox 0025 includes the pluggable ATtiny85 DevBoard (the one with the 8pin socket) which is electrically the same thing as a USB digispark (see Step 7). The USB digispark is only discussed in the instructions for context on the pluggable board that is being used here.
Oops... The instructables editor bit the URL off when trying to turn it into a link.It should be:https://raw.githubusercontent.com/damellis/attiny/ide-1.6.x-boards-manager/package_damellis_attiny_index.jsonWe also added a link to a High-LowTech tutorial on the process.
It is odd that they are called flashing when "fading" and/or "cycling" would be more appropriate. They are manufactured in China so it might be a translation issue. Also, we used the "slow" variant here, but the "fast" variant does seem a little more like what one might call "flashing." BTW, if anyone wants more, Adafruit carries them or you can get a big bag on Amazon or eBay. https://www.adafruit.com/product/679
You might need to get a nicer soldering iron. Also, always keep the tip VERY clean and completely tinned. It should we wet and shinny looking at all times. We prefer shredded metal tip cleaners since they don't cool the tip while working. We stab the tip into the cleaner every 10-30 second while the tip is in active use. Watch a couple soldering guide videos and find some junk boards to practice on. You'll get it with some work. It is a valuable skill and worth the effort. HACK THE PLANET!
HackerBox 0025: Flair WareView Instructable »
A good app for testing webcams on OSX is WEBCAMOID.You can attach the camera module to the U-Bracket using a small nut/bolt (probably the "best" choice for several reasons), an adhesive velcro strip (how we did it), double-sided tape, or hot glue.
HackerBox 0024: Vision QuestView Instructable »
HackerBox 0023: Digital Air...View Instructable »
Yup. They were all like that from the manufacturer. Part of being packaged in bags with 1000ish of those bags shipped from the UK to the US in a big box. Luckily, the wire leads are very flexible and bend back into place just as easily as they bend out of place. Also, we've found that they are pretty nice quality, so they are not really prone to snapping off. Just be slow and careful about assembly and all will be fine.
HackerBox 0022: BBC Micro:BitView Instructable »
Check out Step 5 and Step 9 for two "net lists" of which pins to connect together. That should do the trick!
Those flash cards were extremely expensive and they work great. In fact, we paid more for them than they cost at Costco. Unfortunately, you cannot go into Costco and buy 3,000 flash cards. Also, please stop the whining about shipping. No one is "making" you do anything. If you don't like it, then don't buy it. Thank you!
HackerBoxes 0021: Hacker Tr...View Instructable »
Jeff, Step 5 explains that we are not using the SD slot. There is a lot of flash on the ESP32 module. That was the plan. Your plan may differ. That's great. Go for it. As explained, J1 on the TFT is to short VCC to 3V3 (see image). It is there if you happen to be driving the module with 3.3V. On the Badge PCB, that is not the case because the TFT VCC is driven at 5V.We haven't tested it, but you should be able to float (or define as inputs) the ESP32 I/Os wired to the SD pins of the TFT module and then wire them to the HW SPI. Like I said, it wasn't the plan, but it's worth a shot.
From what I understand, shorting J1 on the LCD module bypasses the voltage regulator that converts the incoming 5V to the 3.3V needed by the LCD. J1 is intended to be shorted if you are providing 3.3V to the module to begin with. Shorting J1 is probably not a great idea if the supply to the module is 5V.
PLEASE NOTE: We just made an edit to Step 2 to add specific event details of interest to those heading out to Summer Camp in Las Vegas next week. We hope to see you there!
PLEASE NOTE: We just made an edit to Step 12 to add a Rev. B of the Badge Firmware. Changes: replaced beep() with code posted by sconklinadded BitHead graphic to LCD functionality clean up display text a little default to muted state display mute indicator on upper left of screen tighten timing loops for more "entertainment"
You might be using an older library.
It is the same type of diode as the one on the 5V USB input of the ESP32, but obviously not SMD. In theory, one could "combine it" with that one to isolate the USB and BAT voltage sources instead of using the jumper switch. It is probably a really bad idea though since the battery charger will also use the boosted battery voltage to charge (cannibalize?) itself. I'd suggest just sticking with the jumper switch. :)
HackerBoxes 0020: Summer CampView Instructable »
Tinning the thin wire with solder can build it up so that it is easier to work with.Note that you can also use a "3.5mm Audio Breakout Module" and an uncut 3.5mm cable to "breakout" the audio cable pins onto a solderless breadboard. It requires more parts, but it is certainly "easier".
HackerBoxes 0019: Raspberry...View Instructable »
Yes, the tabs on the sides of the rotary encoder should go into the corresponding slots on the PCB.
We're looking into this for you to see if we can figure it out. Just as a random note, when a transistor is drawings too much current (overheating) it may likely be due to one of the resistors around it not being the correct value.
HackerBoxes 0018: Circuit C...View Instructable »
HackerBoxes 0017: Power MakerView Instructable »
HackerBoxes 0015: Connect E...View Instructable »
HackerBoxes 0014: Cache the...View Instructable »
HackerBoxes Robotics WorkshopView Instructable »
HackerBoxes 0013: AutosportView Instructable »
HackerBoxes 0012: Digital L...View Instructable »
HackerBoxes Starter WorkshopView Instructable »
HackerBoxes 0011: HAX0R TREATView Instructable »
HackerBoxes 0010: Phython PiView Instructable »
HackerBoxes 0009: Virtual W...View Instructable »
It's a single layer PCB, so you can basically see the schematic on the bottom side of the board. This schematic is from a slightly different version, but if you wanted to, you could start with this one and find the minor differences on your PCB.
We suggest a "CR1220 3V lithium button cell" in the instructions. Did that not work?
When debugging anything, always isolate as much as you can - divide and concur. For example here, it seems there is no power at the Pro Mini... How about at the PL2303 USB bridge module? Is the power LED on the PL2303 lit when you plug it into a computer? Try to disconnect the PL2303 USB bridge from the Pro Mini and check out the PL2303 by itself. LED now? Check the VCC coming off of the PL2303. If that is good then double check the wiring from the there to the Arduino and go out from the source step by step until you see where the breakdown is. Most likely something not connected.
True, but in this case it is just VCC with a typo. Some past versions have had the text oriented the other way around, so we are guessing that the confusion/typo was caused by the fact that an upside-down V looks a lot like an A to someone who does not normally use this alphabet.
The "ACC" pin is VCC. "ACC" isn't really a thing - probably just a typo.Here's a little FYI:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IC_power-supply_pin
Those LED Matrix instructables are just for inspiration of ideas on what you might want to do with the LED matrix. Doing something cool with the matrix was intended to be sort of an "exercise to the reader." Give it a shot. If confusion prevails, we can post a specific example to build off of. :)
Here are a couple videos from Electro-Anarchy...Unboxing HackerBox #0008 - CLOCKWORKBuilding The Digital Clock from HackerBox #0008
Be sure to use the 5V from the PL2303 (not the 3.3V) also attach the to the VCC and GND the short edge of the Pro Mini (not the long side). Lastly, check the solder joints on the pins. Hopefully one of these will get you to blinking.
All of the PL2303 modules we sourced were made on the same production run. A given outdated driver install that flagged one of the PL2303 chips as "counterfeit" would have certainly had the same problem with all of them.Similarly, all of the Pro Minis that we sent out should be the same. Again, from the same recent production run. Can you share how yours looks different? It should have a white reset button (not that the color actually means anything) and the silk screen on the back should say "The Simple Arduino-Pro-Mini".Unfortunately, 99 out of a 100 problems with these Pro Minis are going to be related to soldering mishaps. They are pretty tiny and there are are a lot of ways for them to get messed up in that process - overheating, accidental splatter, cold j...
All of the PL2303 modules we sourced were made on the same production run. A given outdated driver install that flagged one of the PL2303 chips as "counterfeit" would have certainly had the same problem with all of them.Similarly, all of the Pro Minis that we sent out should be the same. Again, from the same recent production run. Can you share how yours looks different? It should have a white reset button (not that the color actually means anything) and the silk screen on the back should say "The Simple Arduino-Pro-Mini".Unfortunately, 99 out of a 100 problems with these Pro Minis are going to be related to soldering mishaps. They are pretty tiny and there are are a lot of ways for them to get messed up in that process - overheating, accidental splatter, cold joint, etc - even for those very experienced with soldering. Please shoot a note to email@example.com so we can help you out!