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5Instructables15,538Views28CommentsBrittanyJoined October 14th, 2015
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3D Printing Contest 2016
Contest Winner Runner Up in the 3D Printing Contest 2016
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  • J-Max's instructable Make a Professionnal Squeegie in Minutes's weekly stats: 4 days ago
    • Make a Professionnal Squeegie in Minutes
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  • J-Max commented on J-Max's instructable Perfect (3d Printed) Hinge1 month ago
    Perfect (3d Printed) Hinge

    Thank you ! No secret at all : as you might know supports are removable because it stops just under the surface it's meant to support. So the upper filament deposit lay on it without sticking on it because it is not squeezed on. It's the same principle here. For holes, I used the tear shape instead of the rounded shape. So the print angle is always below 45° and prints great : you don't need any support. At the same time an open 270° cylinder hole is sufficient to hold a screw or a pin.

    Hi David. Thank you for your message. As you may know +0.2 is a tight fit. Here I'm using a hair more (0.3 or 0.4mm I can't remember).

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  • J-Max's instructable USB Magnetic Stirrer's weekly stats: 8 months ago
    • USB Magnetic Stirrer
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      5 comments
  • J-Max commented on J-Max's instructable USB Magnetic Stirrer8 months ago
    USB Magnetic Stirrer

    I meant *which box I need to check (oops).

    That was about the Creative Commons license. I needed to allow commercial use of the thing. I did. Enjoy.

    Hi, thanks ! I understand some people may not have access to a 3D printer. Well, on Thingiverse it seems every option is turned on. If I missed any option, feel free to tell me what box I need to check. Anyways you can simply forward the link or the .stl file to any trusty provider. For example, download the .stl from thingiverse, then upload it in 3dhubs.com. If you're lucky enough to have a fablab in your neighborhood, just go there with the thing number ;)

    Hi, thanks ! I understand some people may not have access to a 3D printer. Well, on Thingiverse it seems every option is turned on. If I missed any option, feel free to tell me what box I need to check. Anyways you can simply forward the link or the .stl file to any trusty provider. For example, download the .stl from thingiverse, then upload it in 3dhubs.com. If you're lucky enough to have a fablab in your neighborhood, just go there with the thing number ;)

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  • J-Max's instructable Festool MFT Mutlifunction Table : Make Your Own's weekly stats: 10 months ago
    • Festool MFT Mutlifunction Table : Make Your Own
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  • J-Max's entry Bowden Belt Extruder is a winner in the Design Now: 3D Design Contest 2016 contest 10 months ago
  • J-Max commented on J-Max's instructable Bowden Belt Extruder10 months ago
    Bowden Belt Extruder

    Hi Rexipus. Thank you for your comment, I really appreciate that. Well, I'm not into E3D's process, but we may consider the Titan is a light weight extruder, so it should be interesting in direct drive applications. In this purpose, the motor should be light weight too. Through, I don't know if the Titan's small gears can stand a lot of torque.My design is a long time development (for an individual) followed by more than 6 months beta testing by a 4 people team on various printers. We did it seriously. The main goals was quietness, quality and ease of use. That means no fail, whatever you may ask. With smaller motors, we experienced unconsistency of filament deposit on faster printers or low melting temperature filaments. Filaments with fibers also need extra torque. We did not wanted a...

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    Hi Rexipus. Thank you for your comment, I really appreciate that. Well, I'm not into E3D's process, but we may consider the Titan is a light weight extruder, so it should be interesting in direct drive applications. In this purpose, the motor should be light weight too. Through, I don't know if the Titan's small gears can stand a lot of torque.My design is a long time development (for an individual) followed by more than 6 months beta testing by a 4 people team on various printers. We did it seriously. The main goals was quietness, quality and ease of use. That means no fail, whatever you may ask. With smaller motors, we experienced unconsistency of filament deposit on faster printers or low melting temperature filaments. Filaments with fibers also need extra torque. We did not wanted a setup at minimal, so a comfortable security margin was applied to print properly and cover any possible issue. With at last a 37mm long motor you can be confident, whatever your setup or settings : silent motor drivers (which provide less torque), overheating on long prints, hard core delta printer's speed, and so on. Just like we did : install it and forget it :)Probably you can make it work with 20mm motors, but stay in reasonable expectations because you won't have extra torque to stand any situation. Stick to 16 microsteps, and don't print fast with exotic filaments.On my setups, I use 17HS8401 motors (48mm). There's no huge difference on the price tag and the motor will never be to blame.

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  • J-Max's entry Bowden Belt Extruder is a finalist in the Design Now: 3D Design Contest 2016 contest 10 months ago
  • J-Max's instructable Bowden Belt Extruder's weekly stats: 1 year ago
    • Bowden Belt Extruder
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      15 comments
  • J-Max commented on J-Max's instructable Bowden Belt Extruder1 year ago
    Bowden Belt Extruder

    You're welcome mate ;)

    Oh, thank you heinzdrei ! Your comment is greatly appreciated.You're absolutely right about the current generation. Otherhand, it's only a small amount of current generated. You could barely light up a led. You don't need a big motor, so the smaller it is, the less current is generated. I choosed to don't take the current generation in consideration, and it's true, any of my printers still work fine, even if I change filaments frequently. So do the beta tester's. As far as I know, they all kept it. But I understand you can be afraid about that. There's two solutions for you. First, the radial instert of the motor can help you. You just have to loose 3 screws and disengage the motor. You just slow down the operation by 10 to 15s if you leave a hex driver near the extruder. Another perma...

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    Oh, thank you heinzdrei ! Your comment is greatly appreciated.You're absolutely right about the current generation. Otherhand, it's only a small amount of current generated. You could barely light up a led. You don't need a big motor, so the smaller it is, the less current is generated. I choosed to don't take the current generation in consideration, and it's true, any of my printers still work fine, even if I change filaments frequently. So do the beta tester's. As far as I know, they all kept it. But I understand you can be afraid about that. There's two solutions for you. First, the radial instert of the motor can help you. You just have to loose 3 screws and disengage the motor. You just slow down the operation by 10 to 15s if you leave a hex driver near the extruder. Another permanent solution could be inserting a circuit with some diodes and a discharge protection, somewhere between the motor's wires. To me, it over complicates something that works well. I used to find a design good when there's nothing left to remove. I'm not into any additive design process. The simpler, the better IMHO.About the bigger pulley. My design is only a way to manage the feeding, whatever the care I put into it, it won't be universal anyways. The leading ideas was (in order) : practical, quiet, compact. By pratical I wanted to solve commun problems for the user, like unnecessary time consuming operations, lack of precision or torque, easy maintenance, wear problems. First, the gear size is also in close relationship with the belt and the shaft distance. Obviously it's not a single gear, it's a whole system. About pulleys, usualy, the smaller, the better. As the motor gear grows you reduce the torque which is dependent of the radial distance to the shaft centre. So, the system will be less efficient even if you enlarge the output pulley to keep the ratio unchanged. Then, if diameter of the pulleys changes, you need to raise the shafts linear distance to leave enough space for the radial insert tensioning system. Take in consideration that you will have also the belt factor to manage : size (which grows quicky, enlarging shaft distance, and its avalaibility. Plastic have also one big problem : it's not a very stiff material. If you enlarge, you need to make your housings thicker. So, as you can see, there's more disavantages to grow big. But I understand your consideration was much about retractation speed. And you're right, a fast retractation helps a lot to reduce the printing time. Between 16 to 20 tooth, you only get potentialy 20% more speed. Meanwhile, you loose some torque too. We know the speed of a motor, especialy in short moves, is dependent of the acceleration settings. The more torque you have, the quicker acceleration you can ask. There's calculation to do, but guess a differential of 4 tooth does not bring any significant speed difference. Actualy, the retractation speed with my bowden belt extruder is near 200% faster than on my previous Wade's. Note we never tryed to push the acceleration rate to the maximum (I put it in the to do list) but here I'm at 5m.s which is pretty quick.Thanks again for your interest ;)

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  • J-Max commented on J-Max's instructable Perfect (3d Printed) Hinge1 year ago
    Perfect (3d Printed) Hinge

    Hi Thomas. I'm glad to have you here too. That hinge was designed to get the best possible strenght, so you don't need any metal part. On a 3d printed part, whatever it is, if you want to use a metal insert you need a lot of plastic around it to hold it in place. If not you will create a weak point. So, in most cases, using a metal insert is not a good idea. Here, the variable diameter plastic shaft gives extra strenght on the hinge. There's no weak point, that's the idea. You may find a lot of hinges on thingiverse which uses m3 screws as axis. All are incredibly weak except the extra thick ones. But the extra thick ones are not stronger than the variable shaft hinge, because the limit is plastic lamination itself. Quite the contrary, metal brings a lot of stress on plastic parts. That...

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    Hi Thomas. I'm glad to have you here too. That hinge was designed to get the best possible strenght, so you don't need any metal part. On a 3d printed part, whatever it is, if you want to use a metal insert you need a lot of plastic around it to hold it in place. If not you will create a weak point. So, in most cases, using a metal insert is not a good idea. Here, the variable diameter plastic shaft gives extra strenght on the hinge. There's no weak point, that's the idea. You may find a lot of hinges on thingiverse which uses m3 screws as axis. All are incredibly weak except the extra thick ones. But the extra thick ones are not stronger than the variable shaft hinge, because the limit is plastic lamination itself. Quite the contrary, metal brings a lot of stress on plastic parts. That's why I called it the "perfect" hinge, because it gives the best possible strenght while using a small amount of plastic and it prints on a single step. As you don't need any hardware in it, it's also cheap and quick, because you can use it just out of the printbed. I don't claim this is the best hinge ever, it's still plastic and some other designs may be better in different situations. But if you need a flat hinge of 40mm for medium duty purpose, you probably should consider this one, just at it is.

    You're welcome mate. I should have mentioned that metal insert can be still interesting, but only if you want to avoid wear problems. For example, screwing directly in plastic is possible, of course with screws with a thread made for plastic, which is a long thread, because you need enough material between threads. So if you use the right screw it will be ok UNTIL you don't have to remove the screw frequently. In this case, the plastic will get loose quickly. So you will want a metal insert to avoid wear problems. But, like it is always with metal vs plastic, you need enough plastic to stand metal stress. This will be compression stress in this configuration.Anyways, you'll see when you'll get your first printer : there's a lot to learn about that technology. May I suggest you document ...

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    You're welcome mate. I should have mentioned that metal insert can be still interesting, but only if you want to avoid wear problems. For example, screwing directly in plastic is possible, of course with screws with a thread made for plastic, which is a long thread, because you need enough material between threads. So if you use the right screw it will be ok UNTIL you don't have to remove the screw frequently. In this case, the plastic will get loose quickly. So you will want a metal insert to avoid wear problems. But, like it is always with metal vs plastic, you need enough plastic to stand metal stress. This will be compression stress in this configuration.Anyways, you'll see when you'll get your first printer : there's a lot to learn about that technology. May I suggest you document yourself about the "3d printing paradox ?" But this is one of the coolest tool I never had !

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  • J-Max commented on J-Max's instructable Bowden Belt Extruder1 year ago
    Bowden Belt Extruder

    You can't imagine how handy this is ! You want to push the filament to the hotend thru the bowden tube. Depending of the printer I use it's between 260 to 320mm. This is a lot of turns as one turn pushes the filament few millimeters away. With the crank you drive the filament to the hotend in few seconds. Note this is a compact extruder, so the large pulley is not that big. Definitely, the crank is more comfortable. Give it a try, and you will keep it ;)

    Well, when you buy a cheap kit, you probably start to improve it with better printed parts. You're right. But if you sourced good parts or bought a nice printer since the sart, then you'll probably find it usefull in many other tasks. Whatever is your centre of interest. You're right for the flat side of the shaft. Especialy if your MK7 have only one screw to lock on to the shaft. It's a shame but I was not brave enough to film a new video !

    Great idea ! My main printer is in a heated chamber and the feeder lives outside. I mean it's a closed box with the filament roll and the extruder on top. But I will ask some friends to send me pictures, so we will see different mounting options (Tarantula, Prusa I3, CoreXY...). I'll try to show all in the same picture.

    I will upgrade the BOM and talk about that flat side on the M5 bolt. Thank you so much for your comment.

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  • J-Max commented on J-Max's instructable Bowden Belt Extruder1 year ago
    Bowden Belt Extruder

    Thank you so much. I sincerely appreciate.

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  • J-Max followed J-Max1 year ago
      • Bowden Belt Extruder
      • Perfect (3d Printed) Hinge
  • J-Max's entry Perfect (3d Printed) Hinge is a winner in the 3D Printing Contest 2016 contest 1 year ago