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How to Fix Broken Headphone Jack !
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I completely agree, cost is not everything. I'm working on a project now that is going to be costing me around $500, but it is my own creation and something I've been wanting to do for some time. Building it myself far outweighs the cost. if I were to be paying myself for it, I'd have to expect about an extra $500 in wages. But, it's all worth it.
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Gammon's site is an amazing resource for anyone looking to dig a little deeper. I have to agree with you.
When you factor in your time to do it all, it's cheaper to buy a pre-made unit, however, doing it yourself is priceless and well worth the small extra cost. I imagine if you buy a few things in bulk, it's only about $2-$5 more than buying a manufactured nano.
Nice! I just finished my Associates in EE. Fell in love with electronics about 4 years ago and have been soaking up everything I can since. The designing part isn't that difficult, just takes a lot of time(and sometimes, money!).We all start somewhere. When I first started, I just hooked up modules and made things work, but with a little time, I started digging deeper and understanding why they worked. Now, I love designing from the ground up, making it work by understanding how everything works together. If I can just get a job doing it, that'll make a world of difference!
Exactly! Which is why I get excited to see people posting Instructibles about this stuff. Being able to use an arduino is one thing, but being able to build the circuit on your own without a pre-bought module is priceless. Why put an entire Arduino into a project when you only need the chip and a few other components? To me, it doesn't make much sense. It's like buying a Lexus when all you need is a bicycle. It just seems like wasted resources. I for one would much rather build my own circuit than rely on something someone else built with a whole bunch of extra stuff I don't, or won't, need.
Haha, yep, can't complain with free. It still looks mighty fine and I'd be tickled pink to have something like that in my yard! Great functional piece of art.
Other than it being a Ford, I love this idea! Way to use something old and give it new life!
Yeah, clones are the cheapest way to go with that route, but they still are a bit expensive compared to the cost of a chip at only about $4, at most. The few extra components you need to get it going, don't cost much either. The mega can be trickier, since it's a SMT component, but there's also the ATMEGA1284P which offers a lot more power in a thru-hole device. It can be programmed using the arduino as an ISP. Soldering gets easier the more you do it and is really super easy when you start using flux. I understand the lure of using the arduino rather than having to solder everything all up, but it's something you might want to check out.Either way, keep up the great work, brother!
Great project, but if I might suggest something. There is no need to dedicate an entire arduino if you just buy the chips separate and just put the entire thing on a protoboard. That's a common thing I continually see on all these instructibles. People don't use just the chip itself, rather, they use an entire Arduino when the standalone chips are only a couple bucks and SUPER easy to setup without using the Arduino.Either way, great idea and thanks for sharing.
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You said the blurred image is due to the fact it's so close to the eye, are you sure that some of it is not due to the acrylic glass? Also, won't this cloud over time and/or discolor? Would an actual piece of glass work better? Love the concept. This is such a great idea even just as a novelty, but I've been in situations where this thing would come in incredibly handy. Some situations make it incredibly difficult to put a multimeter in a good spot and still be able to view it. Love it and keep up the good work!
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I've tried this method before, but I've never had the greatest of results. I had good results once, but couldn't seem to duplicate them. Not sure exactly what the problem was, but it just never made me happy with the results, especially considering the time it took to do it. I ended up going back to toner transfer and I get much better results. Your printer will make a huge difference. I really wish there was a better solution for plated through-holes. No matter what, this is great for hobbyist circuits, but I'd much rather pay a board house for something professional if I were to plan on selling it. Great Instructible, though.
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Thank you so much for posting this Instructable. I'm so very new to the 3D printing world and I've been thinking there has got to be a way to do this, but I wasn't sure until now. As soon as my new nozzle comes in, I'm definitely going to be trying this!
Thanks for the heads up! All I've used so far is Cura and I enjoy it. I was hoping I wouldn't have to learn a bunch of new software.
I will definitely try to remember to do that. what I'd also like to learn is how to print treading for bolts and screws. It would be nice to make my own hardware for specific light duty needs.
I just recently got my hands on Fusion 360(a student copy) and was just playing around with the threading and holes. Fusion is a bit different than the 123d I have been using, but I like the extra functionality. my part should be coming from China any day now as I ordered it almost a month ago. I'm definitely going to play around with it and see what I can come up with. I didn't see the threading that I was looking for, though and that makes me a little sad. I was hoping to find a 1/4-20 thread, but only saw 1/4-14. I suppose the coarser thread would be better, but it would be nice to have the extra option. I've been in touch with a gal from autodesk and she's been feeding me tutorials, but I haven't spent a lot of time playing around with it yet. I should be able to figure everything ...see more »I just recently got my hands on Fusion 360(a student copy) and was just playing around with the threading and holes. Fusion is a bit different than the 123d I have been using, but I like the extra functionality. my part should be coming from China any day now as I ordered it almost a month ago. I'm definitely going to play around with it and see what I can come up with. I didn't see the threading that I was looking for, though and that makes me a little sad. I was hoping to find a 1/4-20 thread, but only saw 1/4-14. I suppose the coarser thread would be better, but it would be nice to have the extra option. I've been in touch with a gal from autodesk and she's been feeding me tutorials, but I haven't spent a lot of time playing around with it yet. I should be able to figure everything out for it though. Like everything else, it just takes a bit of patience and time.
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I agree with him. you don't want to make the hole any bigger than you absolutely have to. your best bet is to buy a patch kit for small holes. larger ones you can use 1"x1" untreated lumber as a backer. it doesn't take much to support the pics of drywall. your seam tape and mud will add to the overall strength. As to one other person's comment, if a doorknob is causing the issue, you should invest in a stopper and not rely on drywall to stop the door. yes, this method is not going to allow you to hang heavy items in this location, but heavy objects should be mounted in studs in the first place. anchors of any kind can and will still pull through. as for the orange peel or other texture, you can use a compressor and texture gun, or they make a canned spray on texture that can g...see more »I agree with him. you don't want to make the hole any bigger than you absolutely have to. your best bet is to buy a patch kit for small holes. larger ones you can use 1"x1" untreated lumber as a backer. it doesn't take much to support the pics of drywall. your seam tape and mud will add to the overall strength. As to one other person's comment, if a doorknob is causing the issue, you should invest in a stopper and not rely on drywall to stop the door. yes, this method is not going to allow you to hang heavy items in this location, but heavy objects should be mounted in studs in the first place. anchors of any kind can and will still pull through. as for the orange peel or other texture, you can use a compressor and texture gun, or they make a canned spray on texture that can get you by if you know what you're doing. as with any home repairs, you get better the more you do them. drywalling isn't difficult, but it's an art to be really good.
you should never use treated lumber inside a home due to the toxicity of the chemicals. untreated lumber is the way to do it.
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I can only think of a couple of these I would actually use. Any kind of steel wool, regardless of the grade is going to scratch the surface you are scrubbing. Washing your windshield? Seriously? Your Tub? Really? Some of the people in this world never cease to amaze me on just how dense they can be. Go ahead and scrape off that nice finish on the surface you're scrubbing. On another note, the mice trick does work. except it's not the taste that bothers them, it's the fact that it breaks their teeth trying to chew through it. You need to spray an insulating foam around it though, otherwise they'll just push it right out.
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I'm gonna have to checkout this SprintLayout. do you use the free version, or did you buy a license?
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