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Mathematically it makes no sense that portrait orientation makes less power than landscape orientation. Can you explain that statement?
OK, it still doesnt, electrically or mathematically, make sense to me....It has snowed ONCE in the past 105 years here.....LOL.
This is very instructive and much can be learned from this project. BUT, I hope no one thinks this lock is of any value. This lock would not stop a determined toddler. To make this project more useful, a much better lock needs to be used.
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Well, back in the day, we needed 350V for our plate supply so it wasnt considered high. 18 V for the filaments was considered low. Now the 1800V for the CRT plate was HIGH....LOL
Thanks, lots of good information. One of my biggest complaints has been a lack of secs. No one mentions the load capability, or the run time, or the forward speed. All of which I am interested in.
I am new to copters, but am an electronics engineer with many years of programing and bench time. However the terms and language of the hobby leave me mystified. This looks like the perfect project to get me started. Not so simple I dont learn anything, but not so complicated I will fail. But I need more details...or more knowledge. Can you point me to a book to get the basics of language and concept?What is the real cost of this project if I start with nothing but a clean bench and tools?
Any design must take in account the worst case. If it doesnt it is bad engineering. However, I was NOT faulting this design, just commenting on how it could be used WITH a CONTACTOR to control larger current load such as what I have.As long as your MAXIMUM load does not exceed the 12 amps you say this relay can handle, then it will work fine.If the relay cannot handle the MAXIMUM possible charge is it going to fail very soon because when the relay clicks ON on a battery at 12V the starting spike will be at that maximum. My normal charge rate is often MORE THAN 50 AMPS. and maximum is 80 amps.
Not true. The difference between 12Volts and 14.9 volts through the internal resistance of the specific battery will define the charge rate instantaneously when first connected. The better quality battery will have the lowest internal resistance and the highest charge current. It can get very high. Much more than the published charge rate. And it only has to last a few milliseconds to destroy the relay contacts.Further charging at only the float rate means you are not using your battery bank efficiently. It should be constantly moving over a range to get the best usage from it. Mine is often under 100 amp discharge.....which is often coming directly from the solar panels.
The current capability of the relay is not specified but the size tells me it isnt a lot. However the relay could be used to activate a larger relay (Contactor) to control even a 5KW solar array as long as the coil demands of the contactor are within the capability of that small relay.
My home array has 10 panels, each one capable of 8 Amps for a total of 80 amps.
First instructable that I ever liked enough to download. Good job.
Well, I wasnt trying to be a smartass, just saying that the new version of Hi Voltage wasnt the way I learned it when Tubes were king.. I have been hit by 25,000v and it knocked me across the room and I bit my tongue, but I survived....shaken...LOL
Finally an Instructable that really tells how to build something. Most of these are just instructions on how to assemble a box full of parts bought from a vendor complete. This is actually building something from scratch. Good Job and well explained without going into too much electronics detail.I am old school, 500 volts is not "high voltage". 2000 Volts IS high voltage. LOL
I want to engrave METAL I just dont consider "cutting paper" to be "Engraving". What would I need to engrave serial numbers into a steel product?
More specifications are needed. am talking about a sheet ofsteel about 1/16" thick. It was hardened before the serial number was stamped with a "letter" punch and then discovered that the steel punches wont even mark it. I could reheat it to redhot and draw out the temper, cool it, stamp the number on it, then re harden it. This would be a long process for each one. I need to etch a serial number to ATFE specifications.
All the comments that it is dangerous are just foolish. The current is not there to hurt you. The comments that it is illegal are equally foolish. My flight instructor once told me that, "you can land inverted, on the main runway, IF IT IS AN EMERGENCY." And that is what this article specified in the beginning. As to theft of services...I dont think so, you are paying for the service. If its an emergency, that wouldn't even be the case if you were not paying for the service. The diode will only stop one half of the ring tone, the other half will go through but it wouldnt get to the phone because the regulator would either turn it to 5 volts or would blow out, protecting the phone. The blown 7805 costs less than a dollar. I just wish people who are not qualified to ass...see more »All the comments that it is dangerous are just foolish. The current is not there to hurt you. The comments that it is illegal are equally foolish. My flight instructor once told me that, "you can land inverted, on the main runway, IF IT IS AN EMERGENCY." And that is what this article specified in the beginning. As to theft of services...I dont think so, you are paying for the service. If its an emergency, that wouldn't even be the case if you were not paying for the service. The diode will only stop one half of the ring tone, the other half will go through but it wouldnt get to the phone because the regulator would either turn it to 5 volts or would blow out, protecting the phone. The blown 7805 costs less than a dollar. I just wish people who are not qualified to asses the circuit would keep their mouths shut until they finish a course on electronics.
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