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I doubt that's the case. It's not uncommon for purchasing something to be more financially(or otherwise) sensible than attempting to build your own. I'm a machinist by trade and could probably build a half dozen of these from the scrap pile at work, costing me nothing more than the time to do so. That said, if it takes me more than a couple hours each, then it's cost me more overall than just buying them outright.... Not a wise choice when there are a million other things far more important(and productive) that I could be doing.
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The sacrificial anodes eventually erode away, though that will take quite a while. That said, you need to clean them periodically or they will become covered with a layer of the rust and gunk cleaned from the tools...and this means they won't conduct electricity properly for the process to work.I use graphite plates and rods for my sacrificial anodes. They deteriorate less and the "gunk" just wipes off. Pretty cheap to buy.
It will work just fine, probably better than the author's 6 volt charger or a typical 12 volt charger. I did some extensive reading on this a while back before I tried it and found a fellow that had experimented with it a lot. He found that, for whatever reason, 24 volts worked better than 12, but anything higher than 24 was no better.
That is electron flow, not electricity flow.
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I didn't notice a mention of it, but almost all alternator cooling fans are directional. If you spin the alternator the "wrong" direction, it will still produce power, but the fan won't be pulling air across the rectifier diodes and eventually they will overheat and fail. Also, automotive V belts and pulleys are not the same as standard off the shelf v belts/pulleys.With just slightly more work and wiring, this unit could also function as a DC welder. You'd need to wire in a switch to bypass the voltage regulation in the alternator, and a potentiometer to vary the voltage/current to the brushes to regulate the output. It's much easier to accomplish this with an externally regulated alternator.
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The conductor between the antenna and the transmitter/receiver only matters in that it should be properly sized for the length required(antenna to transmitter/receiver) at the frequency which will be used.In the sixty seconds I spent looking up "fractal antenna", I didn't find any made from wire.
I am not sure on exact temperature, it likely varies somewhat based on the alloy. I have seen it with several different alloys, all of which had different temp requirements to harden.....and different quench requirements as well.
It is indeed possible to remove carbon from steel, though not via the quench liquid. If you overheat the steel, you will "cook" the carbon out of it. I have seen this happen more than once with tool steels and heat treat ovens.