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you are missing the duty cycle. short pulses and long off time. so average power is much lower
oh yeah, I just read what he wrote about "dont short the output of the boost converter" another thing my modification will allow you to do is to short the output without blowing up the converter.... LOL.
I actually checked for the legal maximum brightness of car headlights. neither in Canada nor in California are there any limits. looks like 55 Watts is the biggest manufactured lights on the road but I am sure there are those who make their own and use them. especially when off-roading, marine or RV types.
yeah the schematic is a mess but if u can spot the errors then u should also be able to fix them for yourself. no biggie !!!
infrared is not visible light. what will you do with it? there are infrared LED's but they are not "high brightness" because most of the high brightness are made in either red or green or white. if u can get the high brightness infrared LED's then just use them like this guy has made his white LED's.
maybe you showed it to one of your friends or someone saw your drawing. they stole your design. too bad. some of my own designs were stolen and patented by co-workers of mine. but that's life.
very cool design. elegant and pretty.
COOOOLLLLL IDEA. thanks for sharing.
I made a drill bit from a 3/8" foot longthreaded rod I had bought from Home Depot. Just hammer the end of the rodflat and then file it to shape like a wood drill bit and make sure your sharpedges are facing the right direction. Works great. You can usealmost any diameter as long as you can hammer the tip flat and shape it. HD also carries 3 foot long rods of various diameters.I don’t know enough about heat hardening so if itis possible maybe the tip can also be hardened so it does not wear out too soon.
is that for a parts kit or is it for the plans? $5.76 is pretty good for avoiding all the hard work.
Not really a good option. you are handling the cheese all over and that's quite unhygienic Plus what he has done looks very nice and adds flair when you have guests.
Looks SOLID. I'm sure it will not come down in an earthquake (I live in California). Looks like you had a lot of wood and wanted to use all of it. Were you practicing so you can work on Trumps plan to repair the Nations Infrastructure, like Bridges, etc.? I have a nice large corner in my "office" and I think that is a good way to go. I was planning on doing that when I moved into the house but got sidetracked by "other stuff". Thanks for sharing.
thanks for sharing. great idea!! we old folks have forgotten what we knew when we were kids. made whistles with leaves and tin can tops too. thanks for reminding me of my younger days. everything was fun.
thanks for sharing. that was a huge amount of work. is there a storage hole in the center for the pepper corns or do u put them into the metal top part when ure ready to grind?
Welding Tools and Materials
Welcome to Welding
wow! really great project although it is very expensive in terms of cost of materials. I suppose it may be possible to make it in wood for a little lower cost. but thanks for sharing this wonderful idea.
It is a beautiful chair but is it comfortable to sit on for any prolonged time? I would think that with the 1" spaces between the slats it would feel uncomfortable after a while.
if I was building that now, I think I would stop at step 6. any further would mean a life time of hard work
wow that's a cool exercise machine. Did your wife get a surprise when she tried to walk in the bedroom door and found it was blocked by the machine :)) I guess it is the closet door. there are 3 men in the pictures. which one is you? the one with the bald patch or the guy doing the pull-ups? I made one at work once and everyone got a chance to use it. it was not as Impressive as this one. we did pull ups and standing push ups (I don't know what they call it, like the guy lifting himself on the bars) thanks for sharing.
wonderful job. the idea of burning the wood sounds great. awesome gift thanks for sharing.
very nice, but u show it lighted with an LED lamp which costs $28 plus shipping. windows do not have sunlight for more than a couple of hours a day so one needs the lamp to get any kind of growth indoors. this looks like click bait to me. why do people do this game? I don't know how the Instructables works. do u get something for every click that u get?
I am familiar with the voltage regulator he used in this ible. it puts out DC with a lot of filtering so it is not pulsing (Look at the first pic and u will see the filter cap mounted near the transistor or go to ebay and see close up pics of it) . also he is using a pot to adjust the light to whatever brightness he needs so there is nothing wrong with this.apart from that at 180KHz neither ur eyes nor your camera will see the blinking.LED's require current control for brightness adjustment but since the strip already has a resistor for each set of 3 series LED's they form a crude current source which is again ok for this to work.The fact that he has made it so cheap, and is sharing the idea with us is very generous of him. no matter if it is a competition or not.The power supply AC ...see more »I am familiar with the voltage regulator he used in this ible. it puts out DC with a lot of filtering so it is not pulsing (Look at the first pic and u will see the filter cap mounted near the transistor or go to ebay and see close up pics of it) . also he is using a pot to adjust the light to whatever brightness he needs so there is nothing wrong with this.apart from that at 180KHz neither ur eyes nor your camera will see the blinking.LED's require current control for brightness adjustment but since the strip already has a resistor for each set of 3 series LED's they form a crude current source which is again ok for this to work.The fact that he has made it so cheap, and is sharing the idea with us is very generous of him. no matter if it is a competition or not.The power supply AC to 12VDC to power the buck regulators can be bought for about $6 each from dx.com or ebayThanks for sharing.
yes I also saw the flicker on the wall. it may be from this LED light. perhaps his power supply is doing it because the flicker is at a very low frequency (after all we can see it). it may be his DC-DC or even his AC-DC power supply is unable to handle the load so it is oscillating
I looked at the first picture and thought: Wow, it is a solid heavy piece of lumber, and then the first words I read in the comments were:"Please be careful when installing a wooden mantle." my first thought was if that thing fell on your foot then waaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!then I started reading the instructible and it is hollow. fooled me. very good job..
Ok I missed it. in the text you mentioned a 220 Ohm load resistor for the CT making the amp gain no more than x4.5. or max current of 0.303 Amps with your values. how does this work? what were you intending to measure with this instrument? very small currents. perhaps I am missing something? I thought also that the Arduino ADC input is limited to 5 Volts but I may be wrong, cos I don't know anything about it.
ac couple 50 Hz?
ahhhh...:) thanks. 100 mA explains it. I usually think in terms of 20 to 1000 Amps and forgot that there is another world out there. I was thinking of 10 Amps in the CT and got wayyyy out of the ball park.
nice project. thanks for sharing also all the calcs and files.Its a lot of work but a good project.the following is just suggestions and not intended to find fault with what you did:why did you use a gain of 150? seems very high. the current transformer spec sheet shows the linear range to be 10 Amps and a suggested load resistor of 50 Ohms. Most home appliances will use that full range. what was the load resistor you used for the CT?Since ur amplifier uses +/- 12 Volts as the DC Buss its output linear range is restricted to approximately 10 Volts. if you used the 50 Ohms resistor then your amp gain has to be no more than 1000/50 = 20. a lower value resistor allows u to use a larger amp gain but that reduces the accuracy of the CT because the wire resistance of the CT becomes a majo...see more »nice project. thanks for sharing also all the calcs and files.Its a lot of work but a good project.the following is just suggestions and not intended to find fault with what you did:why did you use a gain of 150? seems very high. the current transformer spec sheet shows the linear range to be 10 Amps and a suggested load resistor of 50 Ohms. Most home appliances will use that full range. what was the load resistor you used for the CT?Since ur amplifier uses +/- 12 Volts as the DC Buss its output linear range is restricted to approximately 10 Volts. if you used the 50 Ohms resistor then your amp gain has to be no more than 1000/50 = 20. a lower value resistor allows u to use a larger amp gain but that reduces the accuracy of the CT because the wire resistance of the CT becomes a major factor.So what resistor did you use?Also instead of a half wave rectification if you used full wave rectification it could help with accuracy and calibration and since you are measuring 50Hz then filtering for 50 Hz on the output would also help. also I don't see a bleeder resistor across the output cap so it becomes a peak detector. perhaps the Arduino input may load it down somewhat. no matter what I have said, I think this is a pretty good project
Great idea. Not new but a good reminder on KISS. thanks for sharing
fantastic but can u build it with those tiny components? not really practical at 0201. perhaps for machine placed projects.
what is the voltage of fuel cells?
i made one of these with germanium transistors 50 years ago using a very low voltage. also made one with Silicon.. NPN+PNP. it had a very long time constant. it was about 15 to 20 minutes before we heard a click. the inductor needs to saturate in this design same as the regular "joule thief" it is really just a simple relaxation oscillator
where did u buy the veneer? I have an antique table with a veneer top that has been damaged and i want to give it a new face.
are the two +12V outputs separately regulated? are they separately regulated from the +5V? somehow i had the impression that there is only one output that is regulated (possibly the high current +5V output)and the rest are just followers except for the 3.3V output. can anyone please comment on my question? i understand power supplies but am not familiar with those in the pc's. also i thought they were all designed as flyback configuration. if so then should one not have at least a minimum load on one output?
sticking a 1Meg Ohm resistor at the comp pin and adding a note that using a different value may be ok.... no it is not ok! you already knew that it did not work but u went ahead and published it. why did u do this? for the contest?
MartinD; I'm sorry for being so harsh in my comment. I thought u were just posting to win the contest. Now as for Loop Comp... No u do not have any and perhaps u should read a little about what it is and what it means. then you will know that I am saying is the truth and not trying to be mean to you. it is much too involved to explain online like this. if it was simple I would try. and it has nothing to do with the TL494. it has to do with the fact that u have an LC filter at the output and u are feeding back to the controller (TL494 or any other). an LC filter is a 2 pole filter and one pole needs to be cancelled and you don't have it anywhere in ur schematic. the op-amps, etc. that u mention do not make compensation. what u have there are merely sensors and they only close ...see more »MartinD; I'm sorry for being so harsh in my comment. I thought u were just posting to win the contest. Now as for Loop Comp... No u do not have any and perhaps u should read a little about what it is and what it means. then you will know that I am saying is the truth and not trying to be mean to you. it is much too involved to explain online like this. if it was simple I would try. and it has nothing to do with the TL494. it has to do with the fact that u have an LC filter at the output and u are feeding back to the controller (TL494 or any other). an LC filter is a 2 pole filter and one pole needs to be cancelled and you don't have it anywhere in ur schematic. the op-amps, etc. that u mention do not make compensation. what u have there are merely sensors and they only close the feedback loop without the Loop Comp.The schematic in the datasheet is incomplete in that they do not show the Loop Comp components. they only mention it when they are suggesting a layout. it was written in 1983 and at that time loop comp was not very well understood by a lot of engineers so it was omitted from the schematic in the datasheet. if u look at some modern day datasheets or app notes you should see the components and design notes of how to do it.
it is a power supply. you supply the input power and it supplies regulated voltage at a different voltage based upon the command that you give it, even if your input power supply voltage changes. he has shown three different outputs relative to the input voltage. one gives a higher output another makes a lower voltage and the third gives a negative voltage. The schematic does not show where the input commands come from. Also he does not show the Arduino code. it looks like a good design but i have not analyzed the closed loop control so who knows?
Now all u need to add is a high voltage source and zap the intruder
WOW!!! again WOW!!!! very nice
Very nice. Congratulations.
Meat Cooking Basics
kasra_sa. thanks for sharing such a good instructible. very good info. Thin wires are only needed because it is difficult to bend thick wires when winding. Electrically it is only needed when running at 20KHz or greater and BLDC only runs below 5KHz.
cooool !!!!!! thanks for sharing
Conclusion & Going Further
Welcome to Arduino
is there a way to make slower burning fuel?
i was obviously just kidding about going back to school.
he means that if there is a short from 230V to the pir sensor. the power supply is a commercial product with Isolation and beyond that there is only low voltage so I don't see how that can happen.
oh by the way now taking JodyF's "advice". I think it is time for you to go back to college and get your engineering degree. I am an electrical engineer and also am a certified electrician and have designed and built dozens of high power and high voltage electrical and power electronics projects. I understand what he is talking about. he is right about safety, however since the project is already in a safe place and out of reach, there is no need to off the deep end.
check ebay and understand what a PIR detector is. too bad about your nightmares
for the next one use a 220ac/12VDC regulated power supply and add the 5V regulator. LM7805. you do not need much power for this project and everything will be safe.
Don't pay attention to the negative comments from JodyF. you did a great job of this and installed it where hands do not normally go. so "stray wires" etc is nonsense. it has already been installed.
Thanks. The output waveform of "Modified sine wave" inverters is like that and I wondered how you did it. I know it must be easy but I'm still trying to figure out how to do it.Have you tested it yet on the motors using batteries?
Hi nqtronix. you mentioned a "push-pull" what is that? I am not familiar with that. please explain/describe it. Thanks.
I'm glad you finished. Congratulations!! I need an explanation about Step 22. the scope waveform shows a positive going waveform "Full ON" and then at 50% on a series of pulses in the positive and then another series going negative. what were your measuring points? where did you attach the scope ground?
don't worry about your English. Half the English or Americans don't speak better than you. in this article it is your technical knowledge that is important which is not lacking.
WOW! over $100 for a coaster? Hmmmmm... Classy restaurants will not use these. the mid level ones will balk at the price. destroying a $25 scale to pull out the load cell... only done by college students who have no concept of economics. Not even a proper schematic and the only drawing of the Wheatstone bridge was an almost illegible scribble on a piece of paper. why such a bad presentation? is this what comes out of KTH Royal Inst of Tech? sorry for the bad critique. the product is innovative and interesting but is it practical? its ok to have it in ones home or give one as a gift. It would probably be a product to sell at "The Sharper Image"
Glasses come in all sizes and shapes and weights. the restaurant will need to calibrate each type of glass they use and build a Table. then we come to a situation that two glasses will be the same weight when empty but will differ considerably when partially full. then what happens? This is not a "product" for mass use. it is ok for individual use. This has not been fully thought thru. sorry for being so critical. I am an engineer who designed for small quantity as well as for mass production and see "holes" in some designs. this critique is not to belittle but to try and help. I am sure that solutions can be found for my questions.
Kedar, why not also show a schematic? all those pics do not help without that.
Guys!!! don't focus on the number of 000 he put there. he obviously just threw them in to emphasize that the "delay" would be minimal.
in the pics he has a HUGE coil. You can make the coil with 100 Turns #30 AWG wound around the end of a pencil. Teeeny weeeny.. and it will work just as good.
why did you make the holes in them? after all you tied the head to the shaft.
more great ideas
Great instructable. Thanks for sharing. Why not also include a few small sachets of Neosporin?
more great ideas! thanks. gonna make a list of everything and fill a few small kids back packs or lunch boxes and put them in places where they will be accessible. Although the idea behind the Altoids box is to have a small "safety pack" always available. but where? I am not going to keep in my pant pocket and carry it around with me wherever I go. so I guess one in the car(?). I lived in Northridge during the Northridge earthquake. the situation was pretty grim, but I had a pool so I used pool water and a kettle and put it on the barbecue so we had coffee and we cooked on it too.
well, he already took measurements and it shows about 17 Deg Celsius in crease in Temp. does that not show that his 20 Gal tank is working? After all he is only heating his shop. On the other hand what did you mean when u said " will have 15% reduction in heat transfer"? I thought the idea is to get maximum heat transfer from the dish to his shop. I agree Glycol is better than water and will keep the tubes from freezing and will also prevent oxidation of the tank. True 50% solution is good for -25C as it says on the Glycol jog.
I have a jacket with almost exactly that problem. I guess I have to show this article to my wife so she can fix it.
wood species is not relevant when measuring moisture. you are measuring moisture in anything... your flower bed.... or your hand...
Thanks for sharing this project. it looks great.I cant find the thickness of your plywood sheet. I would like to make one of these. I'm short and have difficulty reaching the shelves in the pantry and I think one of these will help. of course I can go out and buy a small 2 step ladder, but where is the fun in that? this will probably cost me an arm and a leg in comparison, but I want to make one.
3.879 = 3 3/8" How? 3.879 is almost 4". Soooo? what's with that iPhone app?
Color + Finishes
what does it look like when you connect the motor?
Yes I agree about the Zener diode not required in this circuit. voltages are too low.
I thought you were aiming for 40 Amps. 3 Amp resistive loads don't simulate a 40 Amp motor drive.
Looks great!! Thanks for sharing.where do you buy cheese cloth?
are u looking at the fan wires?
one simple way to look at gate drive is to try and make the driver with fast edges and to pump the Cgs with 1 Amp during turn on and off. this pulse lasts approx. 200nS so its two pulses per gate drive pulse. 1 Amp seems like a lot, but the average current works out to be only 20mA at approx. 100KHz so it does not burden your Aux supply.
why put them in parallel when eventually u are going to charge each battery individually. He did it correctly. no need for balancing since they are being charged individually.
yeah, I agree.
"A 4x18650 powerbank" what does that mean? and whats the significance of that remark? i did not understand. please explain. Thanks.
RobnAus 6 hours ago This instructable is as lame as your huge begging for a tiny you tube channel. I won't repeat what others have said but taking a few off the shelf boards and giving us instructions on how to tape them to a piece of wood is embarrassing.I agree with RobnAus what you did is not nice. well maybe he said it a little more forcefully than I would have, but he conveyed the sentiment quite well.
yeah or u can also try just spinning the motor by hand!! lol sorry for my sense of humus.
I misunderstood when I read "The speed controller in this project did not survive" i thought u were referring to the one in this instructable.
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