JohnathanW15

granted uvc is even worse... i use a 365nm uv led thermal pasted to a pentium 4 heat sink to do uv lithography at home. its not that much work to use uv-leds

they only recently came down to that price as well...a year ago they were like 300 an led

you were right...fyi they just dropped in price maybe half a year ago though. i give r&d a lot of props considering uvc destroys most plastics and damages many electronic components... not easy to make a semi conductor whos output is detremental to itself

yeah, i looked into it a bit more and intel has had a hell of a time with extreme uv lithography

meant to add This info comes from my research before designing a vacuum press uv exposure box for uv lithography/etching circuit boards. I havent looked into uv-c transparancy in low iron glass but im guessing its beter than many/most plastics

low iron glass or quarts (as mentioned ) is better for more than one reason. Many plastics block uv... worse yet, many plastics break down when exposed to it. Plastic + UV + water...might = drinking plastic. Normal glass has a slight green tint to it. its best seen looking at an edge. That green comes from iron mixed in with the sand its made from. It used to be an impurity but now its added in a controled percent to increase flexability (if memory serves)... it has the unfortunate effect of blocking/reflecting a lot of light below about 400nm. UVC is < about 300nm... again from memory but should be close.

I would avoid any expert making such a general claim. Light itself is Electromagnetic pollution or a tool depending on if you are reading or trying to sleep. ever notice how bright a flash light has to be to shine through your hand? it can be done but its a very high output light held right to the flesh. and you might see a dim glow. your cheek is a better place to try it. This demos the concept of Electromagnetic radiation at high frequency not passing very deep into the body. To begin with every time you double the distance from the emiter the power level drops to 1/4th its intensity. combind with the fact that even strong high frequency EM held up to the skin (the flash light) struggles to shine through thin parts... I wouldnt worry much about the 2watts of EM radiation 10 feet from ...

I would avoid any expert making such a general claim. Light itself is Electromagnetic pollution or a tool depending on if you are reading or trying to sleep. ever notice how bright a flash light has to be to shine through your hand? it can be done but its a very high output light held right to the flesh. and you might see a dim glow. your cheek is a better place to try it. This demos the concept of Electromagnetic radiation at high frequency not passing very deep into the body. To begin with every time you double the distance from the emiter the power level drops to 1/4th its intensity. combind with the fact that even strong high frequency EM held up to the skin (the flash light) struggles to shine through thin parts... I wouldnt worry much about the 2watts of EM radiation 10 feet from you. its just a bit of background or surface heat from the power supply. also it travels back into the wires better than it does in air and radiates out along the electrical wires.. with all but the best filtering. so if its the specific frequency hes worried about at any power level... This doctor clearrly wouldnt even enter a building with one or work at a hospital wired to the other building with a ir heat lamp. ..or he possibly doesnt know wtf hes talking about in the slightest

it depends on the data sheet for the film u buy and sometimes varies with what resolution you aim for. The blue to purple stuff that is easy to get on Amazon and ebay at the moment is what he appears to have used. I'm using it Untill the harder to source replacement arrives and if that doesn't go well I'll bite the bullet and get real riston. Anyway. 0.85 to 1 percent at about 100f for no more than 60 seconds before rinse is how u want to do the blue stuff. Google solid dilution in water formula to figure out the math. You need to clean your board b4 applying. I use 3 baths and green scrubbers for dishes(but not already used on dishes). 1) 5 percent hcl bath to scrub off oxides and make it all shiny. 2 acetone 3iso pro. With rinse between. Use distilled water for rinsing and b...

it depends on the data sheet for the film u buy and sometimes varies with what resolution you aim for. The blue to purple stuff that is easy to get on Amazon and ebay at the moment is what he appears to have used. I'm using it Untill the harder to source replacement arrives and if that doesn't go well I'll bite the bullet and get real riston. Anyway. 0.85 to 1 percent at about 100f for no more than 60 seconds before rinse is how u want to do the blue stuff. Google solid dilution in water formula to figure out the math. You need to clean your board b4 applying. I use 3 baths and green scrubbers for dishes(but not already used on dishes). 1) 5 percent hcl bath to scrub off oxides and make it all shiny. 2 acetone 3iso pro. With rinse between. Use distilled water for rinsing and baths. Always handle board through thin disposal able gloves. Touch your face? Change that glove. The oils on your hands will prevent adhesion of film. Now have a Tupperwear of distilled by laminator drop in prepped board. Cut resist film little bigger than needed. Pull off protective bottom float the sheet over board. With gloved fingers pull board up into film/out of water. This prevents air bubbles from causing issue. Turn laminator on at some point in between. I like it less than full temp for the first pass so the water is pushed out with out boiling. Once exposed my last tip is You are gonna want to lightly brush at it with tooth brush while in dev bath. Take the 60s seriously for that film. Too long it all crumbles. You will start to see blue hairs bits floating and stuck to board. Rinse after 60 sec... Pat dry and let sit for a few min. Now check it's gone where it should be... Touch up by dipping a touch brush in dev and rinsing so as not to over dev

what if you used really slow pulsed a brushless with axial fan?

what do you have against nitrile gloves? can you provide evidence to support your opinion? most gov, industry and edu produced charts ive read rate them as ok for at least "incident contact" with everything involved here.

how about pool acid? aka 30% hcl for adjusting the ph in pools... aka (idioticly and archaicly) muriatic acid

mort chien imaginarie! /s thanks for the great tutorial!

guy on ebay selling them. i looked a few weeks ago and he still was.. shipping added like 30 if i recall

what if i happen to have a spare medical oxygen tank? asking cause i know little about chemistry but want to avoid things that go boom and etch with out the help of fire department.

what resistor value on the CC terminals would set it wide open (no current limit) Im trying to save space and the pots are slightly higher than the caps so Im taking them off for a thinner case. I need 24-26v (currently resistors replacing CV are giving 26) and no limit on amperage. The device attached draws 2amps max but im not quite sure how to tell if its limited by the 3780/psu or not as i cant force device to max power and dont have power resistors I wouldnt turn red hot

ever heard of rental? I can get an air compressor for 4 hrs for 15 bucks at mennards. if you are doing so many you need it for more than 4hrs, you should probably be sending out to have your boards made. also, If you dropped the attitude you have you might manage to make friends with someone who owns a welder. in my experience most people that own them are happy to do a project as small as that for you/with you for a 6er of beer you will probably consume with them...or just conversation

not an expert but I seem to remember from college astronomy lab and diy flash light builders forms that the moment you add mirror or lens you have losses. so claiming a 100watt light will be a 100watt laser makes you sound like a bit of a nut. also, i hope 8 years after you are posting this all lights you have are consuming something more like 5-20 watts if no get some LEDS bro

I hear dissimilar ages are more accepted in germany

er...any kind of etch resistive ink, wouldnt need to be photo

question that strikes my mind is, can you fill an inkjet carriage with the PR ink and then modify the rollers to pull a pcb (in a 8x11 sled w/cut out) through

pst...miter or tabel saw with 10inch 80 tooth $25 buck blade from harbor freight. my 5400rpm compound miter blasts through 1/4 in plexi w/o a chip... only issue i have is ryobi cm saw doesnt get or stay square very well so for my current project i took the blae to a friends house cause he had a compadible dewalt table saw. saw was like 3xxx rpms and still very little a few chips to none at all

uh in practice it would seem connecting a bunch in series and multiplying nominal FV is done all the time. esp if hooked to a cc/cv dc-dc converter. Pull the light strip off a dead lcd once (make sure its not old ccfl style )

gonna recondition lipos?

do you find this accurate enough to knotch a usb sized hole at an arbitrary place and have a nice square ish cut?

I doubt you could at 2am on a work night in a large apartment complex... at least from the comfort of your desk/work bench in the unit. ie the hot knife wont disturb the neighbors like a rickety desk transfering the momentum of your saw into the floor. It also doesnt require clamping each piece

google "how to use a search engine" , then go from there.

if you still have this/ever try it again.... I think non conducting tape over the first layer except for one little edge then another layer of coper joined to that exposed tap and laid over the insulator layer (connected spiral of copper tape > insulator tape) vertically would work a bit better. dont bother with inward spiral as author of tutorial showed. The coils in the devices are usually vertical stacks. If you do EE stuff semi regularly you should pick up a roll of whats called "kapton tape" insulates and can with stand the heat of a soldering iron(like under the copper tape...solder doesnt actually stick to it.) If you have ever seen the transparent yellow orange tape on a lipo pack or inside electronics you probably respect this adhesive already, every time i see it ...

if you still have this/ever try it again.... I think non conducting tape over the first layer except for one little edge then another layer of coper joined to that exposed tap and laid over the insulator layer (connected spiral of copper tape > insulator tape) vertically would work a bit better. dont bother with inward spiral as author of tutorial showed. The coils in the devices are usually vertical stacks. If you do EE stuff semi regularly you should pick up a roll of whats called "kapton tape" insulates and can with stand the heat of a soldering iron(like under the copper tape...solder doesnt actually stick to it.) If you have ever seen the transparent yellow orange tape on a lipo pack or inside electronics you probably respect this adhesive already, every time i see it (even in old devices) it looks new and is still stuck where it should be. Nasa likes it as well if that means anything.

use a "logic level mosfet" they come in N and P variety. N turns on when the gate pin is driven high, p turns on when get is grounded. you can also use p channels as reverse polarity safety devices on stuff you build and frequently connect/disconect power wire... if you tie the gate pin to ground then connect positive through the remaining terminals... the switch will be off if positive gets connected where ground is supposed to be on your power in. ;)

i forgot to mention, after checking a mosfet can handle the volts and amps you need, look for RDS on value... that is the resistance through the part when the "switch" is on. n channel is lower but p channel is easier to use and still very reasonably low.

its 2017, use a n or p channel mosfet

that dude is one hell of a buzz kill. thanks for the great tutorial

Matthew, have you been on ebay recently? CC/CV boards cost 5 bucks for a stated 5 amp boost or buck...reality is 2-2.5amps unless you put some metal fins or odd chunk laying around on them. .One can get a Poly fuse multi value kit for dirt cheap as well. need more amps? If they have roughly double the budget have them search ebay for ltc3780. 10-12 bucks and a month wait to get one from china using an IC from Linear Tech in Cali. or you can get a board from an american based ebay shop in a week for about 23 bucks.worth noting:its auto regulating boost buck...the chip itself can do just about any form of power converter by re configuring (sepic, cuk etc ) I know all this because im prototyping a product and also keep a bunch of those cheap no name Dc-DC converters on hand for what ever ...

Matthew, have you been on ebay recently? CC/CV boards cost 5 bucks for a stated 5 amp boost or buck...reality is 2-2.5amps unless you put some metal fins or odd chunk laying around on them. .One can get a Poly fuse multi value kit for dirt cheap as well. need more amps? If they have roughly double the budget have them search ebay for ltc3780. 10-12 bucks and a month wait to get one from china using an IC from Linear Tech in Cali. or you can get a board from an american based ebay shop in a week for about 23 bucks.worth noting:its auto regulating boost buck...the chip itself can do just about any form of power converter by re configuring (sepic, cuk etc ) I know all this because im prototyping a product and also keep a bunch of those cheap no name Dc-DC converters on hand for what ever comes up I got my first 2 3780s for free but I didnt pay attention to the fact that the package was designed in imperial and ebay sop to dips apear to only be made in the 2 common metric pitches. I found one company that wanted like 12 bucks for the damn break out... so i paid the 23 to get the damn premade board asap and I will have 2 chips once I etch the second version at home.

i think you are better off having an electrician install romex(house mains wire) and extending the AC output than separating the bat from the invert er by a great distance. your resistance losses will succccck the battery dry and wire will get hot. wouldnt you rather that power went to your devices than heat?

get yourself 3 solid state (normal will work but these SS is faster). Two should trigger with 120ac, the other ideally triggers at your MCUs 3.3 or 5v. on the other side of the mains triggered device, go from Vcc on your micro through a current limiting resister, to the other side of the relay back to a GPIO configured for input. Now you can loop and watch for it to go low. When it does go low raise another pin high, this will trigger the series configuration of the batteries to connect. With solid state relays it should happen faster than your gear turns off. for the P charging config use 2 standard coil based relays on one bat and join the charging sets (+ and - from both)after installing the relays mid line/before they join on one set of leads.... you only need to disconnect one batt...

get yourself 3 solid state (normal will work but these SS is faster). Two should trigger with 120ac, the other ideally triggers at your MCUs 3.3 or 5v. on the other side of the mains triggered device, go from Vcc on your micro through a current limiting resister, to the other side of the relay back to a GPIO configured for input. Now you can loop and watch for it to go low. When it does go low raise another pin high, this will trigger the series configuration of the batteries to connect. With solid state relays it should happen faster than your gear turns off. for the P charging config use 2 standard coil based relays on one bat and join the charging sets (+ and - from both)after installing the relays mid line/before they join on one set of leads.... you only need to disconnect one battery on both positive and negative (you dont need 4 if you think it through). These should trigger at the 3.3 or 5 of your mcu/micro and be high when wall power relay loop/signal is high is there low when wall signal goes low.

have you ever attempted to count the little lines that make up the digits in your "cheap 3 digit voltage meter"... u might find that there are 7, matt wasnt wrong calling it a segment display. Next time try to understand some people know more than you...trust me when I say it takes a lot of effort to find something to like about your build but he did and yet, you give additude in return

I would bet one could take the "black magic" out of it if they read the markings on the DC-DC converters and used google to find the data sheets.

nice dmm, u an eev blog fan? if you havent heard of it check it out. I ask because your choice in meter is one of his recomended ones