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12CommentsJoined December 25th, 2016

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  • RFID Reader Detector and Tilt-Sensitive RFID Tag

    if you still have this/ever try it again.... I think non conducting tape over the first layer except for one little edge then another layer of coper joined to that exposed tap and laid over the insulator layer (connected spiral of copper tape > insulator tape) vertically would work a bit better. dont bother with inward spiral as author of tutorial showed. The coils in the devices are usually vertical stacks. If you do EE stuff semi regularly you should pick up a roll of whats called "kapton tape" insulates and can with stand the heat of a soldering iron(like under the copper tape...solder doesnt actually stick to it.) If you have ever seen the transparent yellow orange tape on a lipo pack or inside electronics you probably respect this adhesive already, every time i see it ...see more »if you still have this/ever try it again.... I think non conducting tape over the first layer except for one little edge then another layer of coper joined to that exposed tap and laid over the insulator layer (connected spiral of copper tape > insulator tape) vertically would work a bit better. dont bother with inward spiral as author of tutorial showed. The coils in the devices are usually vertical stacks. If you do EE stuff semi regularly you should pick up a roll of whats called "kapton tape" insulates and can with stand the heat of a soldering iron(like under the copper tape...solder doesnt actually stick to it.) If you have ever seen the transparent yellow orange tape on a lipo pack or inside electronics you probably respect this adhesive already, every time i see it (even in old devices) it looks new and is still stuck where it should be. Nasa likes it as well if that means anything.

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  • JohnathanW15 commented on jts3k's instructable Controlling solenoids with arduino2 months ago
    Controlling solenoids with arduino

    use a "logic level mosfet" they come in N and P variety. N turns on when the gate pin is driven high, p turns on when get is grounded. you can also use p channels as reverse polarity safety devices on stuff you build and frequently connect/disconect power wire... if you tie the gate pin to ground then connect positive through the remaining terminals... the switch will be off if positive gets connected where ground is supposed to be on your power in. ;)

    i forgot to mention, after checking a mosfet can handle the volts and amps you need, look for RDS on value... that is the resistance through the part when the "switch" is on. n channel is lower but p channel is easier to use and still very reasonably low.

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  • JohnathanW15 commented on jts3k's instructable Controlling solenoids with arduino2 months ago
    Controlling solenoids with arduino

    its 2017, use a n or p channel mosfet

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  • Stop using Ferric Chloride etchant!  (A better etching solution.)

    that dude is one hell of a buzz kill. thanks for the great tutorial

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  • ATX to Lab Bench Power Supply Conversion

    Matthew, have you been on ebay recently? CC/CV boards cost 5 bucks for a stated 5 amp boost or buck...reality is 2-2.5amps unless you put some metal fins or odd chunk laying around on them. .One can get a Poly fuse multi value kit for dirt cheap as well. need more amps? If they have roughly double the budget have them search ebay for ltc3780. 10-12 bucks and a month wait to get one from china using an IC from Linear Tech in Cali. or you can get a board from an american based ebay shop in a week for about 23 bucks.worth noting:its auto regulating boost buck...the chip itself can do just about any form of power converter by re configuring (sepic, cuk etc ) I know all this because im prototyping a product and also keep a bunch of those cheap no name Dc-DC converters on hand for what ever ...see more »Matthew, have you been on ebay recently? CC/CV boards cost 5 bucks for a stated 5 amp boost or buck...reality is 2-2.5amps unless you put some metal fins or odd chunk laying around on them. .One can get a Poly fuse multi value kit for dirt cheap as well. need more amps? If they have roughly double the budget have them search ebay for ltc3780. 10-12 bucks and a month wait to get one from china using an IC from Linear Tech in Cali. or you can get a board from an american based ebay shop in a week for about 23 bucks.worth noting:its auto regulating boost buck...the chip itself can do just about any form of power converter by re configuring (sepic, cuk etc ) I know all this because im prototyping a product and also keep a bunch of those cheap no name Dc-DC converters on hand for what ever comes up I got my first 2 3780s for free but I didnt pay attention to the fact that the package was designed in imperial and ebay sop to dips apear to only be made in the 2 common metric pitches. I found one company that wanted like 12 bucks for the damn break out... so i paid the 23 to get the damn premade board asap and I will have 2 chips once I etch the second version at home.

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  • Uninterruptible Power Supply - Extending the Run Time

    i think you are better off having an electrician install romex(house mains wire) and extending the AC output than separating the bat from the invert er by a great distance. your resistance losses will succccck the battery dry and wire will get hot. wouldnt you rather that power went to your devices than heat?

    get yourself 3 solid state (normal will work but these SS is faster). Two should trigger with 120ac, the other ideally triggers at your MCUs 3.3 or 5v. on the other side of the mains triggered device, go from Vcc on your micro through a current limiting resister, to the other side of the relay back to a GPIO configured for input. Now you can loop and watch for it to go low. When it does go low raise another pin high, this will trigger the series configuration of the batteries to connect. With solid state relays it should happen faster than your gear turns off. for the P charging config use 2 standard coil based relays on one bat and join the charging sets (+ and - from both)after installing the relays mid line/before they join on one set of leads.... you only need to disconnect one batt...see more »get yourself 3 solid state (normal will work but these SS is faster). Two should trigger with 120ac, the other ideally triggers at your MCUs 3.3 or 5v. on the other side of the mains triggered device, go from Vcc on your micro through a current limiting resister, to the other side of the relay back to a GPIO configured for input. Now you can loop and watch for it to go low. When it does go low raise another pin high, this will trigger the series configuration of the batteries to connect. With solid state relays it should happen faster than your gear turns off. for the P charging config use 2 standard coil based relays on one bat and join the charging sets (+ and - from both)after installing the relays mid line/before they join on one set of leads.... you only need to disconnect one battery on both positive and negative (you dont need 4 if you think it through). These should trigger at the 3.3 or 5 of your mcu/micro and be high when wall power relay loop/signal is high is there low when wall signal goes low.

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  • ATX to Lab Bench Power Supply Conversion

    have you ever attempted to count the little lines that make up the digits in your "cheap 3 digit voltage meter"... u might find that there are 7, matt wasnt wrong calling it a segment display. Next time try to understand some people know more than you...trust me when I say it takes a lot of effort to find something to like about your build but he did and yet, you give additude in return

    I would bet one could take the "black magic" out of it if they read the markings on the DC-DC converters and used google to find the data sheets.

    nice dmm, u an eev blog fan? if you havent heard of it check it out. I ask because your choice in meter is one of his recomended ones

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