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5Instructables2,618Views203CommentsFINLANDJoined January 28th, 2016
Gee.. Me 65+ years. My first contact with them logic's was about in them mid-70's. There was allso something called 'DTL-logic', and ewen RTL-logic's, can you imagine that?. My first contact with a 'microcontroller' was a 1-bit data, 16-bit adress, (yes You read it right, one bit & 16 bit), and concidered as 'wery' powerful as a microcontroller, because it had 'built-in' them all functions, I/O, RAM, EPROM (but not with EEPROM or FLASH, they were not invented, yet).

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  • KISELIN commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 10 Woodworking Tricks the Pros Use1 week ago
    10 Woodworking Tricks the Pros Use

    Wow..I have some Instr,'s in them "electronic's", but I enjoy to follow them all cathegorious Your hints here are "SUPERB". (how many times have I sawed to a wrong measurement? guess 378 times). Don't never ewer give me a tool in my hand: Saw, Hammer, Drill et.c... but only them elctronics tool for me.BOY... I lowed to read Your Instr. here .

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  • KISELIN commented on Nikus's instructable 555 Useless Machine1 week ago
    555 Useless Machine

    Ooh... the picture of me is when I was 15years old in 1966. My 1'st native language is Finish, (reads Suomi), my 2'nd native language is Swedish, (reads Svenska), I can helpfully understand Norveigian, Danish. I guess I can read and write, speak, and understand the heard spoken English good enough to get by. Let's have a smile here okay?

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  • KISELIN's instructable My "Owerkill" of POWER Supply's weekly stats: 1 week ago
    • My "Owerkill" of POWER Supply
      756 views
      15 favorites
      0 comments
  • KISELIN's instructable ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer's weekly stats: 1 week ago
    • ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer
      659 views
      17 favorites
      2 comments
  • KISELIN commented on Nikus's instructable 555 Useless Machine2 weeks ago
    555 Useless Machine

    OK. I'll take a course in English, if You promise me to take a course in Finnish or Swedish, and then we can conyinue this discussion

    Gee.. My B,, BRB.. LOL.. to ? ENG.. UK.. or US? again LOL.. them f***. dont? If You don't understand them ible's here wroten, (they come from Global Wide, surprice.. surprice there's a WORLD beoynd the USA), maybe this Instutructable site should be forbidden for NOT US people?

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  • KISELIN commented on KISELIN's instructable ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer2 weeks ago
    ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer

    OK.As You can see in Step 2, (the picture), I’m using a ”ribbon cable” with IDC-conectors, 6-poles, head to head: UNO ICSP <--> Programmer J1. The problem for me was, as I discribe in Step 1, the ”reset” on UNO ICSP pin 6.This is the ”HARD” reset on UNO. There’s a way to go around that but I’m not doing it. That’s why I rather connect the ”reset” to pin 10 (SS) on UNO.Doing this I got another problem: To separate the ”reset/ SS” lead from the ribbon cable.Well, I did it this way: 1. Measure the ribbon cable to a length reaching from Prog. <- > to UNO pin 10.2. Separate the ”reset” lead from the cable3. Cut them rest 5 leads to reach to the ICSP4. Attach the IDC-housing to the cabl...

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    OK.As You can see in Step 2, (the picture), I’m using a ”ribbon cable” with IDC-conectors, 6-poles, head to head: UNO ICSP <--> Programmer J1. The problem for me was, as I discribe in Step 1, the ”reset” on UNO ICSP pin 6.This is the ”HARD” reset on UNO. There’s a way to go around that but I’m not doing it. That’s why I rather connect the ”reset” to pin 10 (SS) on UNO.Doing this I got another problem: To separate the ”reset/ SS” lead from the ribbon cable.Well, I did it this way: 1. Measure the ribbon cable to a length reaching from Prog. <- > to UNO pin 10.2. Separate the ”reset” lead from the cable3. Cut them rest 5 leads to reach to the ICSP4. Attach the IDC-housing to the cable, thus using a ”DUMMY lead” to replace the ”reset” lead5. You need to use this ”DUMMY lead” because it’s nearby impossible to get them leads to line up in the housing without it.6. Them indicators on Prog. J2 are connected to UNO pins 7,8,9 (see the schema in Step 3)I hope this give You the info You asked for?

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  • How to Make a 3S 18650 Battery Pack

    Hi. Isn't the charger U'r using here a balanced charger for "2" batterys only? You have 3 batterys here. As I understand the 3'rd battey wan't be charged? Hmm.. maybe I'm wrong

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  • KISELIN commented on DIY Circuits's instructable Modular UV LED Exposure Unit6 months ago
    Modular UV LED Exposure Unit

    You are so right. How "stupid of me"? I kind'a missed that with a booster. It's absolutely correct as You discribe it. 1 question: what kind of UV-led you used? UVA or UVB or could there be some pros. by using a "mix" of both. Gonna absolutely build one and "add" a timer there. For now I have a "555"/relay based timer for my 300W "Solar UVA" lamp, (yes, you read it right, three hundred Watt), :)

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  • KISELIN completed the lesson Stomp Rockets in the class Rockets Class6 months ago
  • KISELIN commented on DIY Circuits's instructable Modular UV LED Exposure Unit6 months ago
    Modular UV LED Exposure Unit

    You'r right, howewer I made my comment because them most people don't have a 36V PS. Allmost ewerbody got some sort of a 12~24V power supply, that's why another kind of grouping.

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  • KISELIN commented on wduraes's instructable Toastmasters Timer7 months ago
    Toastmasters Timer

    Hi. Good enough for the purpose. I would add a function here: Use a "fade in the next lifght to be and fade out the actual light, in a way that they "owerlap" each other. This results in a "graceful" reminder to the speaker, instead of "Oooh... it's Yellow allready... How much time do I have left? "

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  • KISELIN commented on DIY Circuits's instructable Modular UV LED Exposure Unit7 months ago
    Modular UV LED Exposure Unit

    Nice job. I’ve been making of these photores. PCB’s for decades (~ 30+ years), both single- & double sided. Yet, thanks to You, I’ll got some good hint’s here. I’ve be’n allways using a ”solarium UV-light” but that’s NOT practical thus be’ing a 300W one. Gonna build a LED-frame like Your’s.Some hint’s from my behalf: 1. After developing, rince the PCB under such hot water You ewer can, thus making the PCB-copper to be warm. This decreases the etch time. 2. I use to clean the PCB from the resist ”before” drilling, and I’ll do that with ”technical pure aceton”, because the nail-polish-remover has oil in it, and that’s not so good.3. If You use ”acid” etching, put the...

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    Nice job. I’ve been making of these photores. PCB’s for decades (~ 30+ years), both single- & double sided. Yet, thanks to You, I’ll got some good hint’s here. I’ve be’n allways using a ”solarium UV-light” but that’s NOT practical thus be’ing a 300W one. Gonna build a LED-frame like Your’s.Some hint’s from my behalf: 1. After developing, rince the PCB under such hot water You ewer can, thus making the PCB-copper to be warm. This decreases the etch time. 2. I use to clean the PCB from the resist ”before” drilling, and I’ll do that with ”technical pure aceton”, because the nail-polish-remover has oil in it, and that’s not so good.3. If You use ”acid” etching, put the PCB facing down in the bath, reason: in the reaction it creates gas-bubbles & lift’s up the board so the etch-side isn’t in the etchant. This method allso results in pro: them bubbles tend to move around the board a bit, thus giving ewently contact with the etchant.4. Making double sided ones. The main problem is to get them both sides aligned? Well, in Your layout-design make some guide-holes of a size ~ 0,8mm in the corners. On them ”both” film’s, punch holes in them guide markers with a needle, (of course You can use some of them component-holes if You don’t have guide-holes).Tape the first layout on the board, (say the solder side), drill them holes for them guide-holes , (use a small hole e.g. 0,8mm.) . Put drill bit’s in them holes, place the top layer film in place by using them drill bits to go through them punched needle-holes, and tape it in place, (remember to remove them bits before continuing  ).5. Now it comes to ”saw” the PCB to it’s actual size. I used to saw them PCB’s with a hacksaw with a ”pain…. pain…pain” never getting quite good reults, (allways had to file them to acchive good result). Until I read a instr. : ”Use a box-cutter knife & a metallic ruler, then make several cut’s on both sides along the same line, (if there’s copper where You’r cutting, make sure to cut at least through the copper), then just bend the PCB against ex. Your table edge, and ”crack”, (the noice, not the stuff)”, and voilá You got a nice cut-out .6. I’ve even made double sided PCB’s with another methode, with succes. I bought of them resistive board’s with a thicknes of 0,8mm. Made them separately as one sider’s. Keep in mind with this methode; the TOP-layer has to be ”mirrored”. My ”pcb-design” program allows this to be done. Then I drilled them both, (separately). Then ”sandwitched” them, no glue no nothing needed, just put some components in place and solder them. NOTE a con. here: this isn’t plated through, so, some component’s ”cower” them pad’s so You can’t solder them from the component side pad, thus not create connection with both sides. Allso remember Your ”via’s”.Your instr. Was GREAT 

    Hi. Niiiice job. Just some propose’s: I would rather make them pattern’s, (column’s), with 5 in each, thus gaining to use ½ of the Voltage e.g. instead of ~38V you need only 18V or use pattern’s of 3 = 3,3V*3= 9,9V and use a 12V power. Of course the layout would be a bit more complicated but not much, (just a couple more resistors and wiring). This allso gives you the benefit of need to drop the voltage just 12V - 9,9 = 2,1V with the resistors, and this way you get the poss. to use higher mA with less power loss.

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  • KISELIN commented on gabevt1's instructable Cable Repair7 months ago
    Cable Repair

    Hi. I forget 3 times of 10 to put the "owerlapping" shrink at first on the cable :) :) as You did forget it here :). rafununu says absolutely Right: " Shift cutting and stripping from one to the next wire ,doing like this will drastically reduce the diameter of the repaired cable" that allso reduces the risk of "short" if the "shrink isolation" brakes.

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  • KISELIN commented on SpectreTECH's instructable Multiple LEDs on a Single Resistor7 months ago
    Multiple LEDs on a Single Resistor

    Hi. Actually I use use in my apps. them LED's to be limited to 10~15mA thus NOT giving the full brightnes, bu to raise from 15 => to 20mA wan't make the brightnes to increase noticebly. The wattage of the resistor is of a less matter, e.g. if needed voltage drop from the source to LED's (RED=2,0V), then with 9V: 9-2=7V ; 7V*0,02A = 0,35W thus a 1/2 Watt resistor will do the job.

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  • KISELIN commented on bekathwia's instructable WiFi Weather Display with ESP82667 months ago
    WiFi Weather Display with ESP8266

    Oh.. it was just a joke with the comment of just looking out. Your 'Ible is Fantastic in it's both design & function

    Hi. I usually look out the window to check out the weather (   ), JOKE.. but true.Your Weather-forecaster is in both design and simplycity the most style’ish.Don’t change anything in it, it’s “just” as stream-lined and functional as it can be.Nice job

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  • KISELIN completed the lesson Welcome to Welding in the class Welding Class7 months ago
  • KISELIN commented on jwbrooks0's instructable Wire up a fused AC Male Power Socket8 months ago
    Wire up a fused AC Male Power Socket

    The protecting earth

    Good enough from You. Just the but.... as a thumb rule, make the protecting earth, (the green one with yellow stripes), to be 5~10mm longer than them other strands, because: it would be the last one to brake when broken. This "green one", ( AKA protecting earth), is actually connected to the "neutral", (AKA neutral), in your junction central. DONT NEVER EWER misunderstand them AC-powerline for the one end to be "neutral" IT ISN'T, it just divertes the current to go to "mother earth". It's wery essential with this phenonem in them "marinas for boat's" you having a landline to a power outlet. If your boat or your neighbourgh isn't proparly isolated from mains protecting earth, You'll got a problem..... Your battery's,( or your neigh..), wi...

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    Good enough from You. Just the but.... as a thumb rule, make the protecting earth, (the green one with yellow stripes), to be 5~10mm longer than them other strands, because: it would be the last one to brake when broken. This "green one", ( AKA protecting earth), is actually connected to the "neutral", (AKA neutral), in your junction central. DONT NEVER EWER misunderstand them AC-powerline for the one end to be "neutral" IT ISN'T, it just divertes the current to go to "mother earth". It's wery essential with this phenonem in them "marinas for boat's" you having a landline to a power outlet. If your boat or your neighbourgh isn't proparly isolated from mains protecting earth, You'll got a problem..... Your battery's,( or your neigh..), will be drained, strange but true. Because you have the 12V system grounded as well as the mains "neutral" is. So, allways use a "separator" transformer 1:1. Thereby you are separated from the "earth", that is: neither the HOT or NEUTRAL will give you the kiss of death, (unless You touch them both at the same time)

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  • KISELIN commented on Raffy611's instructable ATtiny Dev Board / Tinyduino8 months ago
    ATtiny Dev Board / Tinyduino

    I suggest, take a leap forward: Make a PCB, (Printed Circuit Board), of Your design, and become a member of us "professional" maker's "Welcome". (Me 65+ years to age but still going strong with them innovations, no Alzheimer, ......yet, I think?).

    Nice job

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  • KISELIN commented on JackANDJude's instructable Resistor Color Wheel Tool8 months ago
    Resistor Color Wheel Tool

    Just them colours

    Gee nice job You've done. Anyway, I try to help You with thi dilemma of them colour-codes. I sort them by a system developed by/for me only. The first 3' rings, (there are resistors with 4 ring's + the tolerance ring = 5 rings), on a resistor tell you; ( don't mind the 4' th ring, which is allways marked "wider" as to be the tolarance of the resistor, 1 to 20% ), Try this, (with 3 rings ending with a colour of):Black will be in a class of just ohm'sBrown will be in a class of 100's ohmsRed in a class of kiloohm'sOrange in a class of 10's of kiloohmsEtc... mega... giga.. tera.. atto..

    Actually You should start with black.... = 0 . Black isn't actually a colour at all.... black is black.. as they sing in them 60's, but there's a dilemma, Don't use the third ring as a multiplier, (black is zero multiplied with.... gives you zero), the third ring ONLY says how many zeros you put there.... after them 2 ring's, e.g. brown, brown, brown will make: 2, 2, +1 = 220 Note! It mearly is a symbolic , (not a mathematical ), way to show it's value

    Colour codes

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  • How To Make a 3S 18650 Battery Pack

    Don't bilieve this explained above

    INPUT/OUTPUT?Where is the input = recharge? Where is the output = charge? You got me lost there?

    A Li-Ion battery like a 18650 has a "nominal" voltage of 3.7Volts, (and ewen then there are 2 cell's connected in serious, thus ewery individual cell producing a voltage over a potentional of appr. 1.85Volt/cell). Still, to "recharge" a battery, it requires a higher potential of voltage to be done, You can't just "take" some You allso need to "give" someYour picture shows with the multimeter some 12.4Volt. Right? You'we just recharged them batterys.... but just wait for an 2 minutes and do the measurement again.... TaDaa,,,, it want read ower 12V again... Hmmmmmmm..

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  • KISELIN commented on randofo's instructable Intro to Soldering10 months ago
    Intro to Soldering

    Hi. Nice Instr. Some notes, (not critic’s), me 65+ to years, had to go through the ”real” soldering school. That is, to be employed at ”LM Ericson” (the telephone company), you had to take a class for two weeks (14days/ 8 hour), in soldering techniques, and after that to pass a test of making 1.000 soldering joint’s and with only 2, (read: two = 2/1000), ”bad” ones accepted, I passed. So I guess I know something about soldering? #1 Cut the legs of the component to be in a lenght of to be as desired BEFORE soldering, reason? when heating up the leg to be soldered the ”heat climbe’s up” the leg rather than to the surface it’s meant to be in.#2 Allways heat up the area where the component is to be and simultionasly he...

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    Hi. Nice Instr. Some notes, (not critic’s), me 65+ to years, had to go through the ”real” soldering school. That is, to be employed at ”LM Ericson” (the telephone company), you had to take a class for two weeks (14days/ 8 hour), in soldering techniques, and after that to pass a test of making 1.000 soldering joint’s and with only 2, (read: two = 2/1000), ”bad” ones accepted, I passed. So I guess I know something about soldering? #1 Cut the legs of the component to be in a lenght of to be as desired BEFORE soldering, reason? when heating up the leg to be soldered the ”heat climbe’s up” the leg rather than to the surface it’s meant to be in.#2 Allways heat up the area where the component is to be and simultionasly heat up the leg#3 The soldering lead-core has ”built-in” core of ”flush” resin, that’s got much lower melting point that the lead has, why lower? Because the main idea is that when you apply soldering lead to a joint the resin does the ”clean-up” job for you before the lead comes there.#4 Newer, Ewer use the use the tactic’s of to apply lead directly to the tip of the soldering iron, (with one exception: when re-cleaning the tip, then it’s HIGHLY recommended, because then the resin does ”just” that it’s meant for), because if you do the only thing you acchive is to bourn out the resin that was meant to clean up the target area#5 For me it’s kind of a reflex, (like breathing), to clean the tip of my soldering iron ewerytime I release it, (put it away between ewery solder), (me made about 1,000,000+ solderings), thus having them SAME soldering tips and the wery same soldering station, ”Weller” not an ad. here but anyway. Get quality, it pays off.Repetition: ”Allways Heat up the subject and the surface to be attached to”, if that want work firmly, then you have a ”dirty” surface or a ”dirty” component leg, (have had this dirty component leg 100’s of times).

    Hi. Nice Instr. Some notes, (not critic’s), me 65+ to years, had to go through the ”real” soldering school. That is, to be employed at ”LM Ericson” (the telephone company), you had to take a class for two weeks (14days/ 8 hour), in soldering techniques, and after that to pass a test of making 1.000 soldering joint’s and with only 2, (read: two = 2/1000), ”bad” ones accepted, I passed. So I guess I know something about soldering? #1 Cut the legs of the component to be in a lenght of to be as desired BEFORE soldering, reason? when heating up the leg to be soldered the ”heat climbe’s up” the leg rather than to the surface it’s meant to be in.#2 Allways heat up the area where the component is to be and simultionasly he...

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    Hi. Nice Instr. Some notes, (not critic’s), me 65+ to years, had to go through the ”real” soldering school. That is, to be employed at ”LM Ericson” (the telephone company), you had to take a class for two weeks (14days/ 8 hour), in soldering techniques, and after that to pass a test of making 1.000 soldering joint’s and with only 2, (read: two = 2/1000), ”bad” ones accepted, I passed. So I guess I know something about soldering? #1 Cut the legs of the component to be in a lenght of to be as desired BEFORE soldering, reason? when heating up the leg to be soldered the ”heat climbe’s up” the leg rather than to the surface it’s meant to be in.#2 Allways heat up the area where the component is to be and simultionasly heat up the leg#3 The soldering lead-core has ”built-in” core of ”flush” resin, that’s got much lower melting point that the lead has, why lower? Because the main idea is that when you apply soldering lead to a joint the resin does the ”clean-up” job for you before the lead comes there.#4 Newer, Ewer use the use the tactic’s of to apply lead directly to the tip of the soldering iron, (with one exception: when re-cleaning the tip, then it’s HIGHLY recommended, because then the resin does ”just” that it’s meant for), because if you do the only thing you acchive is to bourn out the resin that was meant to clean up the target area#5 For me it’s kind of a reflex, (like breathing), to clean the tip of my soldering iron ewerytime I release it, (put it away between ewery solder), (me made about 1,000,000+ solderings), thus having them SAME soldering tips and the wery same soldering station, ”Weller” not an ad. here but anyway. Get quality, it pays off.Repetition: ”Allways Heat up the subject and the surface to be attached to”, if that want work firmly, then you have a ”dirty” surface or a ”dirty” component leg, (have had this dirty component leg 100’s of times).

    So right You are. Actually it’s an alloy of Sn/Pb, usually in propotion of 60/40.The leadless solder requires a higher melting temperature point to fullfill the task requiered. Thus making us to ”re-establish” them ”standard’s” of them ”acceptably requirement’s of a good soldering”. Untill these days you could decide wheter the solder is ”good” or not, just by looking at it, ”shining”, (Jack Nicholson), or not? If not, then questionable, may or may not to be good?

    Some "grammatical" errors here, like "bourn" should be = "burned" ? Me a FIN, so be nice with my "gramma"

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  • KISELIN commented on bekathwia's instructable Getting Started With Arduino10 months ago
    Getting Started With Arduino

    Hi So wery right You are. But shouldn’t we be aware of them details allso? Thus using a 1Kohm, (1 Kilo-ohm?) as a current limitor fot the LED? Would work fine let’s say 220R 330RThe Voltage on a awerigy LED, (depends on the LED…. ), is in propotion to the effect it can produce usually about 15 to 20mA. So, the limiting resistor has to be  The LED actually isn’t Amperage-limetid, but Voltage-limited.

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  • KISELIN made the instructable Getting Started With Arduino10 months ago
    Getting Started With Arduino

    Hi. My name is Kimmo and I’m having a addiction to Instructable’s, (my doctor say’s that it’s curable, but he doesnt’t say how). The ”debounce effect” is really a night-mare. But it’s luckely cured by me. I have one solution that’s compleatly solved by TTL-logics, I attach a pic here, (hope it comes trough), and another solution with a software that I published here, (if you can’t find it contact me: kimmo.selin@pp.inet.fi )

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  • KISELIN commented on andrewwilson's instructable Emergency Stop Button 10 months ago
    Emergency Stop Button

    You absolutely did the right thing by "NOT" brake the, (actually it is allso called here in Europa for "Protecting earth"), earth. Here in Finland after a installation of electrical wirings in a house, they especially "check" for the grounding, (the protective earth), NOT to be broken enyware, "hazardious", "leathal", "suicidel"

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  • KISELIN commented on Nikus's instructable 555 Useless Machine10 months ago
    555 Useless Machine

    Gee... I guess I'll take the price with totatally useless things. Haven't done this yet but, because it's so useless, anyway: a "Light-switch controller in my living/ working-room, to turn On-Off them lights there randomely. Why randomely? Mostly I don't know if I'm producting something usefull or not, who can tell? So, who cares if the light is "On" or "Off"?

    I'm an "oldy" 65+ years, took my first classes in TTL-logic's, (Transistor-Transistor-Logic, in them early 70's, (in those days there were allso logics called DTL, Diod-Transistor-Logic, and ewen RTL-logic, Resistor-Transistor-Logic). Gee.. then there came this "Revolutionary " 555... We were stunned??? What?? Can you do something like that with a "chip", ( a chip as a component, wasn't declared then yet), the chip actually became with the first microprosessor's. I bought my first "Microcontroller" in early 80's. It was 1byte, (yes, 1 byte in data), and 16byte adress, (yes 16bytes). And having a total of 6, (yes, 6), different commands. I just wonder, "could one create something totally useless of that in those days?" Gee.. they wenth t...

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    I'm an "oldy" 65+ years, took my first classes in TTL-logic's, (Transistor-Transistor-Logic, in them early 70's, (in those days there were allso logics called DTL, Diod-Transistor-Logic, and ewen RTL-logic, Resistor-Transistor-Logic). Gee.. then there came this "Revolutionary " 555... We were stunned??? What?? Can you do something like that with a "chip", ( a chip as a component, wasn't declared then yet), the chip actually became with the first microprosessor's. I bought my first "Microcontroller" in early 80's. It was 1byte, (yes, 1 byte in data), and 16byte adress, (yes 16bytes). And having a total of 6, (yes, 6), different commands. I just wonder, "could one create something totally useless of that in those days?" Gee.. they wenth to moon with less of 1Megabyte of microprocessor power, so it could actually be called for "totally" useless, (that is: so what?.. been to moon so what.?). Next step: Mars? useless?? naaah.. we, (the mankind), do really need these useless innovations, they'w showed to be be them of gratest innovations of all

    Yes, this is "really" amusing. But the "Main" question still remains:" Do I want the switch to stay "On" or "Off"?, So actually we have to ask the switch itself, rather to be "On" or "Off", I'll wait for the anserw from the switch, (of course you could build in some Artificeally Intelligence in the logics for the switch), but that would still be something that a person with he's own logic's put in there So, still the switch hasn't a mind of itself. So this is totally "useless" and fullfills them requirements of beein'g useless. Again Congrat's with a fine work, (gonna try to beat you :))

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  • Arduino-controlled True Switching Regulators

    Go MartinD_CZ Go.. Don't let them pessimist's turn out the incredible light of innovation. This forum "Instructables" is just for guy's like you and me. Let's make "something new", ...somebody in the 1700'th centure in UK, (was it UK in those days?), in the parliament said: "There's nothing more to innovate, the world has all the knowledge for a mankind need to know", and this was declared in the parliament of the Upper house. Hmmm????

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  • KISELIN commented on esper2142's instructable Arduino Nixie Tube Clock - Version 1.010 months ago
    Arduino Nixie Tube Clock - Version 1.0

    Gee,, you got lost in some corner. Most, nearly ewery constuction, requires a separate power source eg. 12V, (with req. Amp's), besides of that your microcontroller board provides, (Arduino....some 100mAp's..total), But keep in mind: them GND, (0-volt, Zero.. or whatewer you call it), needs to be in the same potention, (with an diff. if you use analog and wanna keep that separated from the potentional's),

    If I was the bussinesman delievering these products, and found out that the demand is bigger than the capasity of delievre, I would force the production-line to acchive more.

    Just "LOVE" your ible. Actually they, (nixie-tubes), were the basics to what became them 7-segment displays. Them "youth" may not know about them "nixie-tubes" beeing actually "filaments" stacked vertically vs. 7-segment "just" to be flat

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  • KISELIN commented on Nikus's instructable 555 Useless Machine10 months ago
    555 Useless Machine

    OK. I'll take another lesson in english, (by watching another film on TV), if you promise me to take another session with your "shrink"

    *) my bad, it should read "Leonardo" not "Leanardo", please forgive me Leonardo.

    Yeah! Me a "total" fan of 555. Gee.. use the bigbrother to 555, 556, a dual 555, and make the other to be "random", that is: charge/discharge/the treshold of the other depending on the delay of your toggle of the switch... reset pin 4. on 555 :)And again: take the advantage of the recharge-pin #7LOVE your ible

    Right you are. It's useful by acchiveing the function of "not" to be usefull. Or vice versa. A'm I usefull by writing this comment?, guess not, still, someone reads my comment. Is that usefull or not?The Ible is Fantastic, (I'll try to come with a more useless something like ... to not "breath", it's not the intake but the outbreath which is the pollunitation of the enviroement. Phuuuh... if I don't reply to this then I succeeded with my "antibreathing"

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  • KISELIN commented on Nikus's instructable 555 Useless Machine10 months ago
    555 Useless Machine

    Gee.. ewerything that's useful is allready there for sale, BUT to create something that's NOT useful is kind of a skill of art to create something nobody else have done before. To create something "not usefull" takes as much of effort to create something useful... & vice versa

    There you go. Neither did them in those days living "average" people understand of them "innovators" creating totally useless things.

    Just a note for them not have used the 555. Take the advantage of the pin 7, recharge, it's an open collector output to recharge the cap/res for the treshold. It can be used the same way as the output pin 3, thus beeing active when it's time to recharge the cap

    You saved my day. Got a big, Fat, Good laugh. "This" is a real "BONK", useless thing, excellent. Once upon the time there were people saying: "This monster, a Automobile, what on earth do we need it for?", "for god's sake we have them horses". And then there was this Italian guy "Marconi", he disclaimed something stupid of to communicate electrically "wireless, (via Eter),". Then them "REALLY BIG guys from IBM said: "the whole WORLD will do with 6, (read: six), powerful computers, say: 100MHz/ 4bit pros./ .... ++++ many other's in those days concidered constuctors of "USELESS" machines to be stupid.How wrong were they???Trust me if I say that this your 555 inspires 1000's of people, because of it's reversed...

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    You saved my day. Got a big, Fat, Good laugh. "This" is a real "BONK", useless thing, excellent. Once upon the time there were people saying: "This monster, a Automobile, what on earth do we need it for?", "for god's sake we have them horses". And then there was this Italian guy "Marconi", he disclaimed something stupid of to communicate electrically "wireless, (via Eter),". Then them "REALLY BIG guys from IBM said: "the whole WORLD will do with 6, (read: six), powerful computers, say: 100MHz/ 4bit pros./ .... ++++ many other's in those days concidered constuctors of "USELESS" machines to be stupid.How wrong were they???Trust me if I say that this your 555 inspires 1000's of people, because of it's reversed logik, (in psychological matter), beeing useless, (not the 555, I LOVE it), just wait and see when someone apply's this function, (your Ible directly or indirectly into the real life, ewen as it is as simple as it can be).Again "Hurray" for your contribution, (quote Neil Armstrong, (or was it Allan Sheppard? : "It's a small step for a man, but a giant leap for our YOUTH of a mankind in a way of inspiration"

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  • KISELIN commented on mikeasaurus's instructable Make Coiled Wire10 months ago
  • KISELIN commented on KJMagnetics's instructable World's Simplest Electric Train11 months ago
    World's Simplest Electric Train

    If you put them batterys in series you'll get battery1 + battery2 +battey3 = 1,5V +1,5V +1,5V gives you 4,5V Comprende? If you put put them parallel you got the accesibilty of that them Amps they can provide, still 1,5V in output

    Actually, the efficient "work" named "P" is as power in a factor in electricity, (and ower all), P=U*I, Hmm... to define "P" ..I think the "P" is about the same thing as lifting a weight of 1Kg from a niveau of 0 to 1meter in 1 second. Correct me if I'm wrong.As in electricity we allways talk about "Watt's and Amp's", Com'on "Watts" are the product, (Power), delievered by Volts*Amps, how hard can that be to understand, (not you).

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  • KISELIN commented on josemivaz's instructable Laser Printed PCB's, Perfect and Easy.11 months ago
    Laser Printed PCB's, Perfect and Easy.

    Hi! Me an old-timer making them PCB’s. I have made ”hundreds (100’s) of them, thus today still using the ”old golden system” 1+2+3 methode of 1= HCL (36%), 2= Hydroperoxid (25%), 3=Water (100%). The numbers in ( ) are the concentration of the stuff.For the developeing of the photoresistive I use NaHO, (Natrium Hydroxide).

    Hi! Me (Finland), an old-timer making them PCB’s. I have made ”hundreds (100’s) of them, thus today still using the ”old golden system” 1+2+3 methode of 1= HCL (36%), 2= Hydroperoxid (25%), 3=Water (100%). The numbers in ( ) are the concentration of the stuff.For the developeing of the photoresistive I use NaHO, (Natrium Hydroxide).Make a trip to Finland, (it is within the EU), and make your purchase of them needed chemical's here, them "Custom's" will just wonder "What the f***" is this" and you just reply: " It's for scientyfic purposes"... "Hmm... OKAY"

    Hi! Me allso an old-timer making them PCB’s. I have made ”hundreds (100’s)" of them, thus today still using the ”old golden system” 1+2+3 methode of 1= HCL (36%), 2= Hydroperoxid (25%), 3=Water (100%). The numbers in ( ) are the concentration of the stuff.For the developeing of the photoresistive I use NaHO, (Natrium Hydroxide).You still take the price, thus making them 4-layers… guess you order them from a manufacturer??

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  • KISELIN commented on erik12892's instructable USE A PUSH BUTTON AS A SWITCH !11 months ago
  • KISELIN commented on andrewwilson's instructable Emergency Stop Button 11 months ago
    Emergency Stop Button

    Ooh, need to add, forgot. I've seen a couple of them tinned endings making problems. And the corse to the poblems has been a "brake" between the soldered end of the wire and the wire itself. These faults are "extreamly" hard to find => no visible harm?? but inside the core, Ta-Daa, the strands have given way to oxidation just in the part of going "ower" from pure copper to "tinned copper". The elementary electricity psychics says that: "the poor donates to the more rich" thus making a "glitch" between them thus making aka a brakeage

    Gee, I so agree, ( me a FIN & a electrician for 40years, now retired), didn't know that of forbidden use of tinned endings to connectors. During the time beeing an electrician, (both in industries & private), I've NEVER ewer seen a terminating of a wire to be tinned. That is "just so, period". People: DO NOT never ewer tin the wires to be be terminated to a screw / spring / ..... loaded terminal.

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  • KISELIN commented on KJMagnetics's instructable World's Simplest Electric Train11 months ago
    World's Simplest Electric Train

    Give it a little "cickstart" to owercome the "status quo" in the powerfield

    Or, "allmost" in direct contact. All them materials to be magnetic, (Hmm... Iron, Neodym.. etc.), have a permebaeality in which level they can't take more magnetivety, so, the distance between the Source and the Drain could be such low as zero, (at least close to that), This instr. is one of them ewer, (my readings), best. Gonna do this

    Bad for You, not finding................ can You find...........?

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  • KISELIN completed the lesson Welcome to Arduino in the class Arduino Class11 months ago
  • KISELIN's instructable Hack the delay() function in Arduino's weekly stats: 11 months ago
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  • KISELIN's instructable OPTO-MOSFET Driver's weekly stats: 11 months ago
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  • KISELIN commented on andrewwilson's instructable Emergency Stop Button 11 months ago
    Emergency Stop Button

    Okay. Actually "my" comments & and Your Instr. hopefully helps some, maybe not so familiar with electrics, people to take in concideration some or more issues based on Your & my comments. Have a nice day :)

    C'om sí c'om sá. I think we both are "right" in a way or other :) . About that using a wrap-tie.... I suggested to use it "only" if you don't have a proper... that of them teeths eating the isolation: No way, them ordinary reliefers use the same method = having them teeths to grab the isolation, is there any other way to achive the strain reliefe? Oooh.. there is, sorry, them to chasiss "cable trough" plugs having a "O"-ring inside and in betveen the cap and the standing part. After having the cable through you tighten the "cap" and the "O"-ring expands inside the plug, thus tightening it around the cable. Unfortunally these plugs are a bit expensive.You are right about connecting the soldered end to the terminal...

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    C'om sí c'om sá. I think we both are "right" in a way or other :) . About that using a wrap-tie.... I suggested to use it "only" if you don't have a proper... that of them teeths eating the isolation: No way, them ordinary reliefers use the same method = having them teeths to grab the isolation, is there any other way to achive the strain reliefe? Oooh.. there is, sorry, them to chasiss "cable trough" plugs having a "O"-ring inside and in betveen the cap and the standing part. After having the cable through you tighten the "cap" and the "O"-ring expands inside the plug, thus tightening it around the cable. Unfortunally these plugs are a bit expensive.You are right about connecting the soldered end to the terminal, as long as the terminal have "only" the screw against the lead. But if you have a spring-loaded terminal, then it's better with non-soldered end allowing it to "fan-out""Making that knot" for 30 years" you say? OK. but...1.It "looks wee...ry" amateur'ish.2. By the time the copper inside the core oxidates and becomes "hard and fragile" and it brakes at first in where its the most bended, and that would be the knot, (during my time as an electrician for decades, I've found these brakes in bends to be them most "annoying" and hardest faults to find). If I've made a knot on a cable in my job, (in industies, now me ritered), i would have been kicked out of my job "instantly".Still, Your Instr. has a wery good point's of having a "emergency circuit-braker". Ewerybody should have one. :)

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  • KISELIN commented on andrewwilson's instructable Emergency Stop Button 11 months ago
    Emergency Stop Button

    The main idea is o.k., (make this whils't having 10 fingers left :=). Theres only one or two things i wonder? To solder the stranded wire isn't necessary a good thing. When them strands be tightened in the terminal, they don't "fan" out like them unsoldered. That results in a smaller contact area for them strands to the terminal, only them soldered part surface comes in direct contact to the terminal surface, and the tinned area doesnt conduct as well as pure copper. Rather use crimp endings. Within "boating-elecricity" it is highly recommended NOT TO to solder terminatings, that is: 1. In a boat you have to concider the wibrations that wery quickly breaks your connection 2. The oxidation of lead is way faster than copper3. The solder, (I don't know the expression??)...

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    The main idea is o.k., (make this whils't having 10 fingers left :=). Theres only one or two things i wonder? To solder the stranded wire isn't necessary a good thing. When them strands be tightened in the terminal, they don't "fan" out like them unsoldered. That results in a smaller contact area for them strands to the terminal, only them soldered part surface comes in direct contact to the terminal surface, and the tinned area doesnt conduct as well as pure copper. Rather use crimp endings. Within "boating-elecricity" it is highly recommended NOT TO to solder terminatings, that is: 1. In a boat you have to concider the wibrations that wery quickly breaks your connection 2. The oxidation of lead is way faster than copper3. The solder, (I don't know the expression??), conductivity?, starts decreasing right on after soldering and after some time you have only 60% left of the conductivity.4. To tie a knot in the cord? to get a strain relief Hmmm... Don't do that. If you aren't got a deacent strain reliefer, you rather use a wrap-tie or two, works fine.In some industries, (me be'ing an electrician there), they often use in them emergency brakers, (some like yours,) to cut off BOTH "Live" and "Neutral". This is a precaution for a "worst case situation", that is, if something breaks down, there's a possibility that the "Live" get's in connection with some other parts that still are "Hot", and or gets in a touch with the "Neutral", thus not enough to blow the fuse, and this could result the "Hot" coming back through the "neutral".

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