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If you plug in the Arduinos USB it powers the welder with 5v so you can test if the display and led works. But for welding you need to connect 7...12V to the 12V input pin and negative(GND) to the GND pin. Don't use the car battery to power it, use a seperate power supply or a little 2-3s lipo battery.
Do you have a link to the thread with the information so i can take a look ?I have done several hundres welds with the spot welder and there was no problem so far. Therefore i did not think about adding more parts to it.
Did you check the mosfet drivers ? If always a pair of mosfets blows up, maybe it is a bad driver because there are 2 mosfets conencted to each driver.
Better use a seperate power supply. 1A 12V should be enough. Or use a 2-3s Lipo battery.
Hi Seegers, The display changes between the two digits about every second if you are higher than 9 ms. For example if you adjust it to 14ms it shows 1 , 4, 1, 4, 1, 4, 1, 4 ....
Arranging and packing all the parts is allmost the same amount of work as soldering them to the pcb. So i decided to make some prebuild kits instead of part sets.
The IRF1404 also works. I used the IRF1405 because it is rated a little bit higher Amps but costs the same as the 1404 here in Germany.
Hey guys, I do currently have some PCB Sets an 3 prebuilt kits in stock. Take a look here:https://www.tindie.com/stores/KaeptnBalu/
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus L...View Instructable »
The Arduino typically comes with pins and sockets. So you only need one 8 Pin header and socket and 2x 2 pins and sockets for the ground connection (JP1 and JP2) of the two pcbs.
Thank you for pointing out the problems. I updated step 3 of the instruction so hopefully its more clear now.Ps: the Arduinos i ordered came with the 6 Pin header pre installed. I was just to lazy to unsolder them.
Typically, when you buy the Arduino it comes with pin headers. So you only need one extra 20 pin row for all the rest pins.
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