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Hi, The welder needs about 400A to function properly. But a normal fuse will not work in this application. If you use for example a battery that can deliver 440A, the welding current for the set pulse time will be close to 440A. So in case of a defective mosfet for example the current will still be 440A but for a longer time.
Just finished my new website. You can get pcbs there if you like.https://malectrics.eu
Since the new version only has one driver for all mosfets, each of the mosfets should have its own gate resistor. On the V1 each mosfet had its own driver output and therefore gate resistor were not as critical as on the new v2.
The cable for the diodes should be 10mm² ( 7 or 8 awg). For the tvs diode you can also use thinner cable if it is just a very short piece.
Matze, that is an awesome construction you made there. Love it.
Use IRF1405 https://www.reichelt.de/Transistors-IRC-IRF-/IRF-1...IRF3704 can not carry enough current.
M3 x 10mm fit perfect if your aluminium is 4mm thick
I did some measurements and with the shottky diode only there are crazy voltage oscillations which make the spot welder freak out. You can see it in the step i added to the instructable. With Shottky+ tTVS everything works fine.
I will do some oscilloscope tests soon. And if its good add the diodes to the future prebuilt kits. You can already get them on my tindie store f you want to upgrade your existing spot welder. I do also have a little wiring diagram there. https://www.tindie.com/products/KaeptnBalu/diy-arduino-battery-spot-welder-diode-set/
That was related to the old version of pcbs that had a little mistake in the solder stop. No need to pay attention to this with the newer boards.
You can use any non inverting dual drivers which can handle 12v supply voltage and ttl (5v) control signal.
And important: make sure they have the same pinout as the mcp14e10 drivers
If you plug in the Arduinos USB it powers the welder with 5v so you can test if the display and led works. But for welding you need to connect 7...12V to the 12V input pin and negative(GND) to the GND pin. Don't use the car battery to power it, use a seperate power supply or a little 2-3s lipo battery.
Do you have a link to the thread with the information so i can take a look ?I have done several hundres welds with the spot welder and there was no problem so far. Therefore i did not think about adding more parts to it.
Did you check the mosfet drivers ? If always a pair of mosfets blows up, maybe it is a bad driver because there are 2 mosfets conencted to each driver.
Better use a seperate power supply. 1A 12V should be enough. Or use a 2-3s Lipo battery.
Hi Seegers, The display changes between the two digits about every second if you are higher than 9 ms. For example if you adjust it to 14ms it shows 1 , 4, 1, 4, 1, 4, 1, 4 ....
Arranging and packing all the parts is allmost the same amount of work as soldering them to the pcb. So i decided to make some prebuild kits instead of part sets.
The IRF1404 also works. I used the IRF1405 because it is rated a little bit higher Amps but costs the same as the 1404 here in Germany.
Hey guys, I do currently have some PCB Sets an 3 prebuilt kits in stock. Take a look here:https://www.tindie.com/stores/KaeptnBalu/
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus L...View Instructable »
The Arduino typically comes with pins and sockets. So you only need one 8 Pin header and socket and 2x 2 pins and sockets for the ground connection (JP1 and JP2) of the two pcbs.
Thank you for pointing out the problems. I updated step 3 of the instruction so hopefully its more clear now.Ps: the Arduinos i ordered came with the 6 Pin header pre installed. I was just to lazy to unsolder them.
Typically, when you buy the Arduino it comes with pin headers. So you only need one extra 20 pin row for all the rest pins.
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