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As far as the modifications for an AC version there isn't much.The output from the acs712 never goes negative since at zero current it sits and the halfway point of 2.5 volts. It's really a matter of writing code that will find the highest value from the sensor then use that in the formula to convert to a current value. And to get the given voltage at the time I would rectify the AC then use a voltage divider configured for the voltage range of AC. Then multiply these two values to get watts. Also the power wiring for the arduino would have to be modified to include a DC power supply.
Thanks, I'll check it out
This is the first result in Google when searching for AC current acs712 tutorial. http://henrysbench.capnfatz.com/henrys-bench/arduino-current-measurements/acs712-arduino-ac-current-tutorial/
With different wiring and a few different components this can be converted into an AC watt meter. I would wire in a cheap usb wall charger to power the arduino, display and sensor with 5 volts. Then I would use a rectifier to convert AC to DC followed by an voltage divider with the correct resistor values for lets say 130 volts to be safe. The wiring between the arduino, display, sensor and voltage divider would remain the same however it would be different on the power and code side of things. With all the interest in an AC version maybe I should show how that would work next. You are absolutely right about datasheets and google. Thanks
As far as I know the only difference in the variations is the amount of current they can handle. I believe the model is acs712elc-30a at least thats what the ebay description says.
The arduino nano pin labeled Vin connects to the ams117 5 volt regulator on the nano. The datasheet says it has a input voltage range of 6.5-15 volts. The arduino, display, and sensor get powered from the output of the on board ams117. Which is also connected to the pin labeled +5v on the nano. The diagram is specific to the arduino nano which has the on board voltage regulator ams117 5.0 built in. Unless I missed something please explain how it is wrong.
This complete setup is designed to work with a solar charge controller which operates on a DC voltage of around 12 volts. It is connected in a way where it draws power from the load side of the controller while also measuring voltage and current flowing out of the controller. The arduino then multiples the values to give you a wattage reading. There is no mains AC or relay involved.
Please, care to explain how, what and where something is wrong with the wiring. check my response to wb8nbs and elaborate.
Thanks, Yes it works with 7-15 volts DC and can measure up to 30 amps of current. The voltage range is determined by the on board voltage regulator on the arduino nano.
Thanks, This was the first time I designed and printed an enclosure for a project and it turned out perfect.
3D Printed Arduino OLED Wat...View Instructable »
They have apps for cell phones either Apple or Android that can help with pointing your dish. These make it easy to get in the general area. You are aiming for the azimuth listed on dishpointer for your location, 5*E has no relavence in relation to your location.
As far as I know that's the only way to do it, somebody needs to make an up to date fta channel master list.
I don't mind answering any questions you have. I looked up Galaxy 19 97W on the dishpointer website location set to Nigeria. And found that it gave me an negative elevation. This means you have to point the dish at the ground in other words that satellite is unavailable there. I would try for another satellite. There are many that are available from there, channel lists are on lyngsat.com and availability can be checked with dishpointer.com. Also the line on the dishpointer site that shows direction from location changes from red to green if the selected satellite is receivable from the selected location.
Interesting, wondering if it worked, and if it will work in western USA.
Some channels come and go, but around 230 are always available for free. It is important to see if galaxy 19 is available in your area and if it is what size ku band dish is required. All this information is available online. It really is just a matter of pointing the dish and connecting it to your reciever.
Color + Finishes
The ebay listing for the exact one I ordered has been removed, however there are many other sellers with similar boards. The search terms you want to use on ebay are ( mp3 decoder module bluetooth ) , this should pop up lots of listings with similar boards. It is important to pay attention to voltage requirements and the various features of each board.
Yes it is very easy and possible to do this type of cut with a table saw, also I believe its called a rabbet cut along the edges. You have to do this before the glue up of the box. I only thought of doing this after assembly, so it was already too late into the build. Thanks for commenting.
Yea actually it would be good to put the batteries into a holder, but I didn't have one on hand. I had thought about veneering the exposed edge but didn't have any veneer on hand. I tried to use what I had laying around, keeping the cost as low as possible. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks, It actually turned out better than I had expected.
Solar Powered Radio with Bl...View Instructable »
It might just work, depends on the dish size and your location but HD Ku band lnb's are like $8 so trying it doesn't cost a lot as long as you have a receiver that is capable.
I used 2n5190 npn transistors in my final build, but on the breadboard I think those are tip120 npn transistors. Any similar npn transistor should work fine.
Arduino Countdown Timer
Resistor Color Wheel
Solar Panel Setup around $100
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