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Do you have any tips for wrapping the canvas around the foam edges? I've only done some test pieces and I found even on a 2'x2' panel it was hard to wrap the corners. I was thinking of even using a staple cut to adhere to the opposite side, then trim the excess. It may also be my fault that on the test pieces the canvas is too big as opposite to perfectly cut to cover edges and no more.
The mattress air pumps are not designed to run continuously. However, they are simple DC motors usually if you have a battery-powered one, you can use a slightly higher power DC-DC regulator to reduce their CFM. If you have an AC powered mattress air pump then they're either the DC motor configuration with some form of conversion from AC-DC, or perhaps they're just direct 110V universal motors. In the case of the latter you can control roughly 60-100% full speed using a triac switching device. The cheapest/fastest/cleanest solution is a "router speed controller" from harbor freight for <$20. This will be more likely to protect your motor than a baffle. At the least, if you use a baffle then make it one that doesn't work exclusively by increasing backpressure (which reduces airflow that cools the mattress pump), but one that redirects some air away from the forge so the pump still runs with minimal restriction and maximum airflow. My small comments to an excellent instructable. Thanks for posting!
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Nice! I remember when making these in middle school the corners were what really made the manual cutting terrible. I think I may have tried using a dremel but it was hard to keep nice. I bet 4 smaller circles combined with manually cutting the pages out would be a bit improvement! Though, you can also just use a giant circle as you did
Hi, I think that sounds like it has worked well for you in the past and experience is a powerful benchmark in my opinion. That said, I would just mention if you get into more composite-type resin work, it is likely something to read up on (as clearly I don't *know* the answer but I think I know there is some answer out there.) I am fairly confident that the strength of the resin changes quickly when straying far from the formula.
Oh, yeah! Not to be mistaken- I think what you're doing is perfect for the application. More a word to "if you go into other stuff, and apply the same technique, it might not work." I'm absolutely on board with you on the costs of resins in bulk. Sadly they are damn expensive! I've been always dreaming of finding someone who works in the industry who can get me less expensive barely expired resin, or something like that (I imagine the high tech composites industry, for example, sometimes manages to waste resin and wouldn't use anything expired due to the extreme performance demands.)Similar issue in general with fabrics like quality fiberglass (less so) but definitively with carbon fiber - I know the market price for big quantities is somewhat reasonable, but the ability to get reliable sources as a hobbyist is quite hard.
Is the hardener exclusively a catalyst? I am not sure if it is good to tweak the ratios more than 10-30%, because otherwise they wouldn't sell 30min, 5min , 60min, epoxy ect. You would just have different ratios of A:B to produce a given hardening time. I think the answer is if you're using a resin set to cure in 30 minutes use a resin set for 60+mins to get a cooler cure. Also, you can slightly chill the A:B which slows heat build up not so much because it has to be warmed up but because the chilled A:B react more slowly and so can't get heat ramping runaway. Dunno, though. I genuinely meant my first question - are you sure that just changing the hardener percentage is an acceptable way at least in applications where you're using the resin for structural purposes. I also may be conflating epoxy work with resin work, and I realize I could be totally off-base as a result. Thanks for any feedback!
Exactly what I look for in a featured instructable. Super high quality instructions. Thank you! They cover the methods and the purpose of most steps, which I think is fairly key to the education bit and for the maker-types. ^_^ thanks again! I hope to give this a shot sometime (saved and shelved to the future project list. Hopefully not to languish there.)
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Oof, I like the instructable. But... Those are pretty nice and useful on their own! Especially one in the good condition you found it. They are typically for producing tension in a cable assembly, which you probably know, but I am just mentioning. It felt painful to see it cut apart when I assume the vice is not quite as practical.
I think they meant range per charge, but it was not a well posed question :p
Perhaps I would be fine with just some compression material near the center of the board, where the edges should have less issue with buckling or anything. Good point there I hadn't though much. To be honest I was thinking of XPS not EPS, that was a mistake. EPS is fairly soft, XPS is soft but not as bad. Honeycomb materials are too pricey for me :P:)
EPS won't squish under vacuum - the only squishing after vacuuming is if the carbon fiber deforms. I am not familiar enough with CF layup, but I think really it would be OK to remove much of the interior material and compensate with thicker CF. My ideal would be to remove much of the foam core and even fit electronics and batteries in a cavity. Dunno, this instructable is very inspiring! I think I'll go for it in october when have more time. I was bummed that my original longboard I bought was stolen, and the replacement I couldn't bear to pay much for was noticably lower quality of a ride. Maybe DIY is the way to go :D
The type of foam used is harder to source than others- do you think you'd find regular pink EPS acceptable? I assume almost all the strength comes from the CF skin, but I could be wrong. Any tips for cheap sourcing of carbon fiber and fiberglass materials? I've never found a good source.
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Interesting. I must be lucky, as never have had an issue. But internet suggest chloramines can be chemically treated with campden tablets.
I think the reason for boiling tap water is actually largely because the tap water might affect the yeast, due to chlorine trapped in the water. Boiling forces most of the chlorine to bubble out.
Actually even a small 5000Btu unit will probably be designed for slightly more CFM. The freezer sometimes has a higher pressure pump because it is driving a larger delta T between the interior temperature and the exhaust cooling, but the flow rate is less because it's not processing as much refrigerant. Meanwhile an AC unit is driving a lower temperature difference, but a higher amount of cycling. In general the less deltaT or deltaAnythingEntropicRelated the more efficient (which is main reason why AC air isn't much colder than the target room temperature.)
Wow, Pchem, I appreciate the response! I had not considered the concept of H-bonding making water a particularly volumetrically stable state. Instead, I was mostly basing on my experience reading about metal molding and that the pouring at X degrees C vs (X+100) degrees C usually won't make a meaningful difference in volume contraction (it's all in the phase change.) That said, the liquid of metals would have a lot more effective bonding. (by the way, just to clarify, when pouring metals usually the mold is 1-3% larger than your desired object due to the metal contracting as it solidifies. Also because there's often a lot of surface finishing to do.)When I wrote my initial comments I had been attempting to find data for the expansion of propane with temperature. The only data I remember finding was between a small celsius range, (like 20C and 30C maybe?) and so the error in the posted numbers could have been all I was seeing. I wish I had found the coefficient of expansion that you found. Because whatever I found suggested much less of an expansion. I also went down a couple other lines that were just nonsense and I sort of wish I could edit or delete without obscuring the line of comments. That may be partly where you're confused by my data presented. I think your analysis is very cool and I appreciate it. I do wonder if the significance of 9% would go down if you in turn also counted the expansion of the tank dimensions itself, but maybe that would be very insignificant as previously mentioned, the metal inter-phase does not have meaningful expansion at this scale.
I would just make sure you're correct with that schematic- I don't believe car alternators are traditional BLDC motors. That's all :)
It would mean much more stable input source and could be sufficient stable if you used a 24V dc fan though I'm not certain. They really Maybe spin too fast at bike speeds. maybe if you add a concentrator cone
I'm confused. Most fans are bldc, the three phases develop the same max voltage. You need a "three phase AC rectifier" I believe that can also be done with diodes but I'm not certain.
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