Kiteman

I have no idea how to answer your question, but I am sure that even MySQL experts will need more details than that.

Since you're going to use a different method, you could write your own instructable!

Cool, glad I was a help.

Cool!

You're welcome.

There are some already on the site - I have yet to design a decent one myself, though.

If you are careful, you can heat a needle and burn a hole through the wood.

Thank you!

Look for "Blu Tack" (note the lack of an "e" on Blu).https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu_Tackhttps://amzn.to/2LZUgnf

Have you got a link?

You're very welcome - Thanks for sharing the picture!

Kazmataz?https://www.instructables.com/id/Airplane-Wing-Des...

You're welcome!Please, post pictures of what you make!

Have you tried searching for photo boothes?https://www.instructables.com/howto/photobooth/https://www.instructables.com/howto/photo+booth/

Thanks for those points - I have also heard that you can clamp the MDF really tightly to make it bow in slightly and hold in thinner acrylic.

With a low-detail piece like this, the MDF looks fine for another go. My other badge* was only a one-shot mould, though.I don't know if that's because of the greater detail, or because I heater the pewter to a higher temperature (it seemed more "watery" when I poured it).*https://www.instructables.com/id/Cast-Pewter-Robot-Badge/

I bought mine from (UK) Ebay, a single one-ounce ingot that is less than half-gone with the two badges I have made so far.I do know that a lot of UK high schools do this as a project in Resistant Materials ("shop"?) lessons - some laser the moulds, others hand-cut the MDF, depending on what skills the school wants to develop (or whether they own a laser cutter). (BTW, do you see at the very top of the page where it says "Teachers"? If you haven't clicked it yet, do so now.)

Enameling sounds interesting, but don't you need to bake enamels? I worry that the pewter would melt again.

You ought to - once I'd worked out how to do the detailing, it was less than an hour from switching on my laser cutter to wearing the finished badge.

Haha, I don't know about "master", I'm still getting good tips off folk. I'm wondering next about more complex shapes that might need vents...

I know - I've been meaning to try this for well over four years, maybe five or six. I'm glad I did now, Robot looks very good on the lapel of my dark grey suit!

I've entered this in the Casting Contest - if you've enjoyed reading it, I'd appreciate a vote!

Thank you - it is a lot easier than I was expecting!

Thank you!

There is no extra content in the PDF than there is in the instructable you see on the screen.

Yay, well done!

Love it!

Hey, is there an example of your work we can watch?

Thank you!

I've been running this in my head, and wouldn't movement #100 work?The single disc+peg could be extended into a cam-shaft (see my horrible sketch), and you could print the entire mechanism as one piece.http://507movements.com/mm_100.html

Very cool - a decent vortex cannon has been on my to-do list for a very long time.Have you seen this version?

Steps 5 & 6 explain the knots you need.

The author can't fix that - you need to send an email to support@instructables.com

Inkscape works fine with DXF files, and its a free download from Mozilla.

Remove it and return it to the owner. If you know the owner well, you may want to lick the thumb clean of milk, but if the owner is a relative stranger, you may want to add a sarcastic comment on a post-it note.

Plants photosynthesise, consuming CO2, but they also respire, producing CO2.(British hospitals used to take plants out of wards at night, thinking that the plants would consume oxygen the patients needed.)

Cool - I'll look for the update!

Wait, this project has been on the site for well over a year - how did I not see it??Thanks, Spark!

"Not easily" is not the same as "not at all".The concern seems to be from the photos in step 12. The sludge is mostly yellow-brown.Copper-based chemicals tend to be shades of blue or green (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_of_chemicals#S...), so people have assumed that the sludge is made of chromium salts from the stainless steel. However, chromium salts are strong shades of red, purple, bright orange and almost fluorescent yellow (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium#Compounds).The chromium is more reactive than iron or nickel (stainless steel can be an alloy of all three), so will be the first yellow-brown colour is probably made up of iron salts (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron(III)_chloride) ,with other contaminants from the tap water and the equipment....

"Not easily" is not the same as "not at all".The concern seems to be from the photos in step 12. The sludge is mostly yellow-brown.Copper-based chemicals tend to be shades of blue or green (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_of_chemicals#S...), so people have assumed that the sludge is made of chromium salts from the stainless steel. However, chromium salts are strong shades of red, purple, bright orange and almost fluorescent yellow (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium#Compounds).The chromium is more reactive than iron or nickel (stainless steel can be an alloy of all three), so will be the first yellow-brown colour is probably made up of iron salts (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron(III)_chloride) ,with other contaminants from the tap water and the equipment.----------------------Having said all that, you did the right thing to switch to recommending a safer electrode, just to eliminate as much risk as possible. You just need to go through the text again, because you still mention stainless steel in places.

Ever done chromatography and seen the way black ink is actually a mixture of other colours? Most black dyes are the same - a mixture of other dyes, each removing part of the visible spectrum from reflections.If you ever see really old writing (say, war-time letters from the trenches), you will see that the ink looks reddish-brown. That's because inks and dyes that reflect the blue-green part of the spectrum tend to be less stable (see how jeans fade easily?). So, the blue-green dyes will fade or get bleached more easily than reds and browns, so most black shirts will fade out to reddish-brownish-orange shades. Pure-coloured (single chemical) dyes will bleach out completely, and leave white.

Oh, I love the idea of "signing" them"!I'll have to buy a sponge and try it!

"Black" dyes (and inks) are usually a mixture of colours - I assume the red tint was just the dye that was most resistant to the bleach. I had no idea in advance what the final colour would be.(I wonder if a green shirt would go yellow, or blue?)

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Cool!

This website is a "how to make things" website, not a sales site.This project should allow you to turn your scan data into a file that most 3d printers can use - look for a printer that can produce the resolution you need in materials suitable for medical uses.These articles might help: https://makezine.com/?s=3d+printer+review&post_typ...

Carbon dioxide is formed when fuels burn (vehicles, heating, generating electricity, wild-fires etc), or when living things respire (you breath out 100 times ore CO2 than you breathe in).

I know, right? I've already had a few people on other sites tell me they're going to copy it. The base shirt was only £1.80 ($2.50) from a cheap store called Primark, so it's a pretty risk-free project.

I could if I'd bought some, but there wasn't much bleach involved altogether, a teaspoon at most, so rinsing worked fine.

Thank you!

Good point!

If you've scrolled down far enough to read the comments, can I ask that you also check to see if the contest link is live yet, and give me a vote?

Thank you!

Thanks!(The vote button should be visible now...)

Who picks a snake up with pliers??And why shouldn't I use specialist corn snake substrate for housing a corn snake?Mites are only an issue if the cage is not cleaned regularly. Elsie has never had mites.

I beg to differ.

That's why I keep using the terms "her" and "she"...

Like this!https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-Beer-No1/

In this hide, and those like it, she's actually laying on the bedding, but her "bought" hide has a rough, sand-papery texture inside.The only preference she shows between the two is temperature - if the weather gets cold, she uses whichever is closer to the heater.

To be honest, I'm not entirely sure, as it was "found" stick in the first place, but it was probably birch.

You would use a hydrometer.

Ah!I get what you mean - thanks for the idea!

These were powerful magnets, so it was like having a pair of pliers gripping in there. Smaller magnets should not be so much of a problem.