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As for the long-term solution, there are a few other types of design available that might serve as inspiration: The Crane Riten e.g. uses a torsion spring. Some old bell uses a coil spring.https://rustybikebell.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/img_0139.jpg
Electrical issues can be confusing...It might help to know the year and model car you have, and more importantly, the brand and product number of the installed stereo.The stereo absolutely MUST be grounded. That doesn't mean you have to ground the metal stereo chassis to the car chassis, but there MUST be a ground connection to the car chassis somewhere. Sometimes it's in a separate harness with accessory and and constant 12V, sometimes it's in the harness with the speaker wires.The stereo wire colors are not a standard. You cannot just go by those alone. Most reputable brands stick to similar things, but not always - it's a bit of a mess. Consult the manual on what the wires actually do, and if you used the receiver harness already in the car, those colors usually are standard (and found on the internet).How did you connect the stereo wires to the car wire harness? Solder? Crimp tubes? Twist them together and tape over them (I've seen people do this enough to warrant me asking...)? The antenna connection is usually just a plug/jack (like a bigger headphone jack).As for the power, typically, it is a red wire that is "switched power" so it is only on when your key is on (also called accessory power). This is what actually powers the stereo. The constant power is typically a yellow wire, and it is wired to a constant (fused) power source and keeps your radio from losing its settings (time, favorite stations, etc - although, the auto industry is decades behind when it comes to this technology). You should take a volt meter and measure these power source.Have the dash lights always turned on a while after you start the car? That's common in a lot of cars, but I want to make sure it isn't a new thing.Without me able to physically inspect things, there isn't much else I can do for you. If can double check the stereo manual for connections, but that's about it. It might be time to take it into a car audio shop (that does installations) for help. If it really is some other external power issue, it needs to be taken care of by a professional.
I was the one who installed the stereo and although it's something I've never attempted before I did do my homework and was overly cautious. The stereo has no option to dim the lights on the unit. All wires were put to their corresponding colours. I did not ground the black to the car as had been suggested because there was nothing but a flat back panel made of metal and it was too far for the wires to stretch. The original stereo was not grounded to the body so I was under the assumption it would be fine. The dash lights clicking on after driving for a short distance was concerning but the car seems generally happy and has not exploded thus far. My battery has not drained enough for me to not start the car and the stereo has been in for two weeks (I've just run out of time to rip it all out again). I'm thinking the accessory (red wire) is correct and fuels the stereo and then my alternator takes over and the yellow constant isn't doing anything at all. I don't understand how my headlights could be tied into the whole contraption. The only wires I used were from the previous deck. Unless some how there was a manufacturers defect in the placement of the wires? But then one would think I would be missing a channel/speaker and everything works...when it has power. I feel like if I were to rip it out I would rewire it all the same because I was so careful the first time. I just don't get it.
Well, this doesn't have anything to do with the instrument panel cluster, but I have done a bit of work with stereos and other auto wiring harnesses.Who installed the stereo? How do you know it is wired correctly?Stereos typically need three power connections: Always On 12V (essentially, straight from the battery with an inline fuse), Accessory (12V Only when key is on), and Ground (to the car chassis). There is absolutely no reason any sort of "power surges" or "redirects" would take place if it is wired correctly, unless you also installed a high power amplifier or something else that the alternator cannot generate enough current to keep running. Given that your radio works with the headlights (which will draw significantly more power than the radio does), I doubt that is happening.In the harness that connects the stereo to your speakers and accessories, there is also typically a wire that goes to your dash lights. This is for the illumination of the stereo display to change with your dash light brightness. In my opinion, this wire is not connected to the right thing, so when your dash lights kick on, the stereo is shutting off as a safety precaution. Sometimes electronic devices have a component that act like a circuit breaker and trips when too much current passes (called an MCB). They will automatically reset after so often (so you don't have to do it manually like the breaker panel in a home).In my opinion, either the stereo is installed incorrectly, or you have some other short in a wiring harness. I once had a cluster of wires overheat and fuse together, but this completely drained my battery overnight.
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Hello I recently replaced my stock radio with an after market one. It was working fine (I drove it at night) and when Monday rolled around and I headed to work in day light hours it went completely dead after about five minutes. There was a correlation between it dying and my day dash lights clicking on (which doesn't happen as soon as I start driving but approximately 5 minutes in). The next day I tried the drive with my headlights on and the stereo remained on even after the automatic clicking on of the dash lights. I turn them off and the stereo immediately dies. What is going on? The stereo was wired correctly. Everything on it works when it has power but it's as if it's surging or having power redirected when the dash lights come on. Even after it has died if I turn on the headlights it will not come back on until at least an hour has passed.
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This is awesome! I'm going to print out my photos and place them in something like this: https://www.etsy.com/listing/240287044/50-states-photo-map-usa?ref=shop_home_feat_1
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Awesome little project, and thanks for the shout out! For anyone interested, here's the inspiration for the Hot-Glue-LED combo: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Large-LED-Lit-...Also, team Mystic, represent!
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My buick centery 2003 wont go from drive to park to i can start it ....ive tryed alot an cant find it ....does anyone know ?
This was real helpful Kurt. Thanks.
P.S. I moved my Link List to the left sidebar while awaiting a reply
Hi Kurt, and thanks for this tutorial. I've got the link tabs up and running, but I'd love to center them and remove the outer border (the inner lines between labels are fine). I've tried adding CSS found on another How To blog as well as adding html code, but nothing's working. Can you help me out? Here's my blog: www.icelandeyes.blogspot.com
Oh wow! Thank you so, so much for this! I'm so glad I found your post! Phew!
Before you try anything, try pressing the ODO/TRIP ODO BUTTON. I tried that first! Guess what, it reset the circuit and my display came back on without any disassembly or soldering!
Thanx for this wonderful project, Im a hobbyist cellphone repairsman, reflow etc, I have been using a heat gun for reflowing purposes lately coz my hot air station got wrecked, my current problem is the nozzle being too large, could you perhaps create something that can narrow/ concentrate the heated air more, awesome thanx
Problem solved. The blinkers were working very dim and slow, and the "light came on over my head" (pun intended) that I had battery problems the other day when I left my e-cig battery charger plugged in over night. I got a jump, and waa-laa, everything fired right up, including the odometer/shift indicator. It turns out I took a break pulling apart the dash, left the doors opened with all the lights on, and it was enough to weaken the battery to where it would light up the dash, but not start the car. Thank you! the fix itself was a lot easier than I could've ever imagined! - J ScottS
It's a 2001 Buick Century. I only replaced the 4 resistors in top corner, one had fallen off the board entirely. Can't get board to light up still and now having the issue of the car not cranking at all.I don't have anyone with an OBD reader, and since it won't run I can't limp it to auto store. Might have to grab one myself .Bought the car used a month ago to piece back together for a spare car, and seems to be turning into more of a project than I'd hoped for. - TimH156
Same problem as TimH156. Replaced the resistors, plugged it in, and the car won't start. Panel indicator lights light up and then go out as it should, but the blinker, which I accidentally turned on as you can imagine, wasn't blinking, and I tried both right and left indicators. I double checked my soldering and the panel, and can't see any damage on the panel. Like Tim, everything comes on when the key is turned on, but starter doesn't engage. - J ScottS
Very nice instructable. I have tried a few of my own design but this looks like a winner. The two things I have done differently is I lowered the rear cross support a little bit so the boats a raised above the roofline. The second thing I did was to extend the cross supports outside a few inches. This allows me to have my canoes overlap the uprights. Also it lets me hook the canoe on the front support then lift it onto the rear. My kids are a bit too small to help with them and my wife doesn't canoe. I don't know how kayaks would be managed.I am curious about the clamps. You mentioned that you used screws on the ones you attached to the bed but not the others. It seems to me that screws would make the whole rack more secure. Finally, when I saw your parts list I assumed the threaded eye and hook would be used as a turnbuckle to create an X pattern for adding stiffness to the sides. from what you have said in the comments it is pretty sturdy. Do you think running a cable tightened with a turnbuckle from the top front to the rear bottom and one from the read top to the front bottom would be of value? I would probably also put one behind the window since it wouldn't be in the way.Either way this is terrific!
Hi, I went through the steps here, got it all done, plugged it back in, and now the car will not start at all. Turn key, check eng light comes on, dings that key is in and turned to on/start position, but start isn't clicking or anything as I try to start it. Any ideas at all? Thanks.
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Thank you ever so much for figuring this out and posting how to do it! I am beyond excited to have my site looking more normal and more easy to navigate. So easy to do with your help.
OMG! I could just come right through the screen and kiss you!!! Finally! I am just like your wife - no techs here! I am so thankful that I found your post. I am new to the blogging-o-so-fear, and frustration levels have maXed! You bring relief. Thank You SO Much!
Wow very innovative love it cant wait to build it for the 20 mile marathon im doing next month
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Hi, I've got a real similar issue on my 2001 Regal, theres two digital displays in the cluster, one of them is absolutely dead and the other is wonky: sometimes its really dim, sometimes it's really bright, and other times I can control it with the dimmer switch, but often enough the dimmer switch does nothing for the digital displays only. I've got a buddy of mine at GM who's gonna give me the wiring diagram soon, but what's your take on this? do you think my issue lies with the resistors, will soldering some connections maybe help me with my dimmer switch situation ? do you think I'll need more than 4 resistors since I have two digital displays?
Thank you so much for showing this. I got one going again because of this.
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Now THAT is creative! I didn't know it was so much work!
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