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Well they must have doen so, but it became obvious that was not the case. You came up with a great idea.
The whole setup looks rather unstable on top of the toilet. What keeps it from sliding off or falling over especially due to the heavy faucet end when the sink is empty. Perhaps using a tank lid with the flush mechanism on top along with a tank with the hole for a side flush handle. I’m sure these types of tank tops could be purchased separately maybe even from a flea market.
you really do not show the completed piece to determine what goes where. It appears that the intake is under the baffle, but I have always seen it where it must come in at the right place above the cutout of the baffle..
thanks. That clears it up. Great drawing.
I have planned to make one of these for some time, but have toyed with the idea of using perlite in the mix to make it lighter. When I was in the Sea Scouts as a teenager we needed to replace the forward deck on our boat. We used lightweight concrete (concrete with perlite) and a chunk of it would actually float. Not sure if anyone else has attempted this, but it would be an interesting project. Also countersinking 1 x 2 hardwood strips at strategic spots would make anchoring to the cabinets quite easy.
you gave a warning regarding being careful while inside the power supply due to high voltage. The supply should be disconnected from any power and allowed to rest for a while so all voltage will dissipate from the capacitors before opening the box. This is very important. When this is done there should not be any danger to the person, but only to the delicate electronic components inside. So make sure to ground/bond yourself to the supply to avoid any static discharge.
I forgot to mention that this is a great idea and a great Instructable.
Mold Making & Casting Class
it took me a while to understand where the hole for the latching rod was drilled. It would have been good to add that to the drawing in step 6. I think I have figured it out.
this is a really cool idea. Cutting straight and square with a Hand saw is always difficult. I will definitely try it.
good idea since the bite will be less drastic and not as likely to produce as much stress.
The biggest challenge will be drilling the plastic or plexiglas without it cracking.
great idea and real simple. My suggestion would be to use an old plastic mechanical drawing plastic triangle, or just buy a cheap new one. Sometimes getting plexiglas to score and break accurately is problamatic. The triangle is right on.
actually oxygen is not flammable, but makes everything else burn much better.
there is a company called bang wood that has an engraver that ranges from 300 mew and up for about 120.00 and up that is assembled with good software. If I remember correctly. Might want to check it out.