Tell us about yourself!
Not the OP of that instructable, but I can answer your questions to some extent. First, dried mycelium is comparable to soft paper in terms of weight and tensile strength. To your other question I can assure you that dry rot is a completely different species than anything you grow on wet chaff or coffee grounds. If you get dry rot in the house, it probably got introduced by airflow or as stowaway on the feet of mice. Either way there needs to be phases of high humidity for it to grow and damage wood beams. Faulty insulation is mostly the prime reason there.
It is however a brilliant way to remove all those pesky vitamins that are so hopelessly overpowered by sugars in the lemonade anyway and would not stand a chance either way they tried to reach you. :P
The really thin paged supermarket ad magazines you get in the mail sometimes work well to for laser iron transfers.
Also sending the image through a dithering filter will greatly improve the look if your laser software does not have this picture processing anyway.
Polyurethane based Parkettlack should work fine. :)
The laquer transfer methods with gel and polycrylic work also for inkjet transfers. I'd like to try transparencies for inkjets to see if I can peel off the transparent sheet after "glueing" the special ink accepting coating of these to the wood. Would be less messy than the paper scrubbing.
The vinegar apparently helps the slices to remain structurally stable for the cooking duration. Its just so you don't end up with mash instead of slices afterwards. ;)
Very nice work and quite a scientific aproach! I tried the Weicon MOS spray too, but the result were as underwhelming as in your case. Might pick up the CRC lube. Thank you!Another thing I want to try is covering the steel with paint or spray plastic and burning it off with the engraver, then etching with vinegar and an adjustable power supply. After that just removing the plastic/laquer with paint thinner. Should give a nice deep etch where the laser removed the masking. :)