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Hi,yes, it indeed is, but most reference designs do not have a display and controls, they regulate based on some predefined values. In those applications you need the processor to react to a sudden change in the output ASAP, which is hard, when it is busy drawing the display or checking controls and doing a lot of other stuff. So yes, the method itself is okay. And the processor is still fast enough, I just wanted to point out that this is fine for battery charging, where the load changes slowly, but not for a lab bench power supply or something similar.
UPDATE: I am currently working on version 2 of this thing, with cell balancing, better UI and lots of other stuff. Also it will be in a form of an Arduino shield. V2 should be out in October, so insted of building this, I recommend waiting for V2.
They do have the same potential indeed, but separating grounds is very common. There are two basic reasons - ground loops and noise. I am not honestly going to explain them, you can search for that very easily.
Hi,unfortunately, I do not have any layout files, as I have build this on a piece of perfboard... And you can work out the partlist from the schematics. I am planning version 2.0 with cell balancing, so maybe there I will provide layout & partlist
Well, you would need to use 2 MOSFETs then, and somehow control them. I fear TL494 cannot really do this, or I do not know about it. You could use 2 TL494, this could be possible, but why dont use the flyback inverting one? The only downside I can think about is its lower efficiency...
You mean like isolated? Because there is already a schematic for inverting converter, which can be called "universal"....
Hi, thanks. Well, when you look at almost any generic step-down converter (whether it is TL494, UC384x or LM257x based), they all use the same layout with only a few modifications. They always feed the output into some sort of error amplifier, sometimes with exposed negative input, sometimes not. They are all build this way, even the commercial ones. And they all work. I have been researching this for like 2 weeks, and the generic design is nothing unknown, it is all over the internet. My biggest contribution is the Arduino-control part.But for the sake of both of us, lets end this. Nobody else complained about anything, and I (and you too, I think) do not want to spend my time writing what was already written.
Yeah, this came to my mind too, but I thought it would make the whole build more complicated and harder to understand....And using N-MOSFET is a very good idea, they how lower rds on and even more, I think they more common and thus easier to get. Thanks.
I have sent you a PM
Hi,firstly, it works - I have build it onto a breadboard and then as a standalone shield. If you do not believe me, do not believe me - that is your problem. However, look at my other Instructables, I am not some newbie. As for your arguments:1. loop compensation is done by two error amplifiers, they are connected to the voltage output and the current shunt. They get their reference from the RC filters, that come out of the PWM pins. The only reason it is also connected to the Arduino is that I display the output values into Serial Monitor. All the compensation is done by the TL494 (that is why I think this is better than connecting the whole thing directly to an Arduino)2. sticking a 1Meg resistor at the comp pin is OK. The datasheet states, that it should not be left floating, but it ...
Hi,firstly, it works - I have build it onto a breadboard and then as a standalone shield. If you do not believe me, do not believe me - that is your problem. However, look at my other Instructables, I am not some newbie. As for your arguments:1. loop compensation is done by two error amplifiers, they are connected to the voltage output and the current shunt. They get their reference from the RC filters, that come out of the PWM pins. The only reason it is also connected to the Arduino is that I display the output values into Serial Monitor. All the compensation is done by the TL494 (that is why I think this is better than connecting the whole thing directly to an Arduino)2. sticking a 1Meg resistor at the comp pin is OK. The datasheet states, that it should not be left floating, but it also should be protected against false triggering. So a resistor with high enough value is used (I have seen this in many designs) - it does not matter if it is 820K or 1M, I wanted to help the potential builders in telling them which values are not that critical.3. I do not provide a code because outputting PWM from Arduino is so simple that if you cannot do it, you are probably not able enough to build this.Honestly, I am very disgusted by your comments. Some notes I would like you to read:1. Instructables has "be nice" comment policy. You firstly accuse me and than call this a fake (or I do not know how to call it) without waiting for my reply. This can discourage other people from posting on Instructables!2. I bet you havent even read the whole Instructable or the TL494 datasheet. You just looked at the schematics and made your opinion.3. When I look onto your profile, you accused a lot of other Instructables this way. So everybody else is stupid and your are the smartest person on planet Earth, right?3. You asked a very good question - why would I post something which does not work? I have posted 3 other Instructables, all of them working fine. I do this in my free time. I do not have anything from it apart from good feeling (yeah, I have joined a contest, I have like zero chance of winning). I thought the idea is worth a share, so I have written this.Overall, if you are a man, you should apologize for the way you have accused me. I am OK with a discussion - tell me what would you improve, and I will think about it. Otherwise, I am not going to spend my time replying to your rude comments.have a nice day John.
Well, to receive data from UART, you need an UART to USB converter (2 USD on Ebay). Discharging FET is any generic FET in TO-220 mounted onto a heatsink. The ISP is something different from UART.
Hi,Unfortunately, I do not have a partlist, since anybody can customize their project. But I provided schematics, so I hope you can write down the parts really easily. Getting the parts - either Ebay or your local RadioShack, depends on your local prices & delivery times from Ebay
Arduino-controlled true swi...View Instructable »
yeah, I used those
Q1 is a general NPN tranzistor. Q2 is a P-channel MOSFET. IRF9540 should work fine.
sure I will help, just drop me a message or write in the comments :)
Thanks for your invitation, I would gladly judge workshop or tech.
How to make universal batte...View Instructable »
Hi,the code is compatible with Arduino, if you copy-paste it into Arduino IDE it should work. Working with ATtiny boards is possible, it would require just a simple modification.
Hi,I used 1 lithium battery (3,7 V) per gun and 5 V boost converter to boost it up to 5 V. However, you can do without the boost converter...
Simple AVR Laser Game GunView Instructable »