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  • A Simple Bench Variable Power Supply

    And what do you use it for? Whats the purpose of it? I would like to have seen pictures and a description of what you were using it for along with more pictures showing it being used.

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  • Make Your Own Gaming Table With Built-in Game Storage

    RoguePirinI agree they are nice tables and like you out of my price range as will. I only posted the link to give you and others ideas for when they make their own table. The only problem with pexiglass is its heavy if you have a big sheet of it for a big table. But I used to work for a printing company doing high end stuff and we would use rolls of the acrylic acetate and when they would get to a certain length we couldnt use for the big projects, we would throw away the rolls of acetate that came in 5 foot widths. I would dig them out of the dumpsters and take them home knowing I would need them for when I make the large canvas map Im making. So as for the clear acetate I have plenty of that. Thanks for the offer, plus its cheaper to buy pexiglass at my local hardware store than it is...see more »RoguePirinI agree they are nice tables and like you out of my price range as will. I only posted the link to give you and others ideas for when they make their own table. The only problem with pexiglass is its heavy if you have a big sheet of it for a big table. But I used to work for a printing company doing high end stuff and we would use rolls of the acrylic acetate and when they would get to a certain length we couldnt use for the big projects, we would throw away the rolls of acetate that came in 5 foot widths. I would dig them out of the dumpsters and take them home knowing I would need them for when I make the large canvas map Im making. So as for the clear acetate I have plenty of that. Thanks for the offer, plus its cheaper to buy pexiglass at my local hardware store than it is on ebay.

    Plus here is a video I found on youtube also giving other ideas for a table. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spdescYFqIE

    I like this. A few years ago I saw another gaming table but the company is asking for like $1,000-$5,000 for their tables. And I thought if I had that kind of money and a place to put it. I would buy it, but I dont. But they did have some really cool ideas for if I was to build my own like you did. Like they use small drawer hardware to make their drawers, and they even use cup holders that dont hook onto the table. Rather the cup holders and such are a tongue n groove method and slide into place with a sliding metal catch to lock them in place from slipping out. Of the many tables they offer I like their Vizier, the Minimalist, the Emissary and the Drop Ship Card table. Some of the tables are also dinner tables when not being used for gaming. And some of the tables even come with the ...see more »I like this. A few years ago I saw another gaming table but the company is asking for like $1,000-$5,000 for their tables. And I thought if I had that kind of money and a place to put it. I would buy it, but I dont. But they did have some really cool ideas for if I was to build my own like you did. Like they use small drawer hardware to make their drawers, and they even use cup holders that dont hook onto the table. Rather the cup holders and such are a tongue n groove method and slide into place with a sliding metal catch to lock them in place from slipping out. Of the many tables they offer I like their Vizier, the Minimalist, the Emissary and the Drop Ship Card table. Some of the tables are also dinner tables when not being used for gaming. And some of the tables even come with the clear acetate film to place over some games that have maps so you dont damage or wear out the fabric of the map. And you can use the dry board erase wax to write on the acetate during your games then wipe off after your done playing. Check them out. http://www.geekchichq.com/collections/custom-dining-tables-for-gaming

    I like this. A few years ago I saw another gaming table butthe company is asking for like $1,000-$5,000 for their tables. And I thought ifI had that kind of money and a place to put it. I would buy one, but I don't. Butthey did have some really cool ideas for if I was to build my own like you did.Like they use small drawer hardware to make their drawers, and they even usecup holders that don't hook onto the table. Rather the cup holders and such area tongue n groove method and slide intoplace with a sliding metal catch to lock them in place from slipping out. Ofthe many tables they offer I like their Vanguard, the Vizier, the Minimalist, the Emissaryand the Drop Ship Card table. Some of the tables are also dinner tables whennot being used for gaming. And some of the tables even come wit...see more »I like this. A few years ago I saw another gaming table butthe company is asking for like $1,000-$5,000 for their tables. And I thought ifI had that kind of money and a place to put it. I would buy one, but I don't. Butthey did have some really cool ideas for if I was to build my own like you did.Like they use small drawer hardware to make their drawers, and they even usecup holders that don't hook onto the table. Rather the cup holders and such area tongue n groove method and slide intoplace with a sliding metal catch to lock them in place from slipping out. Ofthe many tables they offer I like their Vanguard, the Vizier, the Minimalist, the Emissaryand the Drop Ship Card table. Some of the tables are also dinner tables whennot being used for gaming. And some of the tables even come with the clearacetate film to place over the table and some games that have maps so you don't damage or wearout the fabric of the map. And you can use the dry board erase wax pencils towrite on the acetate during your games then wipe off after your done playing.Check them out.http://www.geekchichq.com/collections/custom-dining-tables-for-gaming

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  • Disaster Situation Water Supply (Concept)

    Will yes and no on the gas and oil floating on the surface since those types of chemicals are hydrophobic. But since the IBC first starts off floating at the surface until it begins to sink as it filters and fills up with water it would first be filtering the water on the surface where those chemicals would be exposed to the IBC in the beginning. I agree I live in the states and been in a few floods myself. I think your idea is great. Hopefully maybe you can get on one of those investment shows and find someone who will back you. I think this is a wonderful idea. But glad to be of any help

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  • Disaster Situation Water Supply (Concept)

    I just thought maybe also have one of the 55 gal drum empty so it carries the food or whatever kind of survival gear you want them to carry like the thema blankets, etc. And the other 3 barrels filled with foam to keep them afloat no matter how much water or weight the IBC filled with the drinkable water. Hope anything helps for feedback.

    I really like your idea. But I think that during a flood the water will also contain other contaminants like gasoline, oil and other chemicals from run off of the vehicles and driveways, etc. And the water filters that you find in most small filtration straws and such may not be strong enough to do so, especially when some of the smaller filters can only be used so many times or with some types of filtration that have to be replaced after a few uses. You may need something thats more heavy duty and stronger that will filter not just the bacteria but also the chemical contaminants that might be in the flooded water and last more than just one use. Also your idea of using solar panels to recharge the batteries to operate the emergency light and beacon. Have you thought of those flexible ...see more »I really like your idea. But I think that during a flood the water will also contain other contaminants like gasoline, oil and other chemicals from run off of the vehicles and driveways, etc. And the water filters that you find in most small filtration straws and such may not be strong enough to do so, especially when some of the smaller filters can only be used so many times or with some types of filtration that have to be replaced after a few uses. You may need something thats more heavy duty and stronger that will filter not just the bacteria but also the chemical contaminants that might be in the flooded water and last more than just one use. Also your idea of using solar panels to recharge the batteries to operate the emergency light and beacon. Have you thought of those flexible roll up panels that can be stored when not in use? Look into that. I wish I had the money and resources Id invest with you this sounds like a great idea. Maybe you should consider taking this on Shark Tank and get them to invest in you. You have the plans you made here, use your ideas that you have so far and what everyone gives you for feedback. Then go to a hobby store or something and make up some models to show investors or to even do tests in a small water tank to show how it could work. Ive found when it comes to test some of my water proofing methods for my camping survival gear my bathtub makes a great water testing tank sometimes. Good luck

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  • Fire Piston (Made From Aluminium)

    Wow that is to much work to attach a handle with all those dowels in the pull handle and trying to mount it to the solid stock. There is a much easier way to make one using a 1/2 inch copper pipe bib, a 5/8 inch wood dowel, drawer pull handle and the 1/2 inch OD O rings. Here is a video of it on youtube also. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGyl8w16VbUWhen you go to the hardware store to buy a half inch dowel they are no longer half inch anymore, after the milling/sanding process. But instead a half inch are 3/8 inches now and with a rubber O ring on the dowel you dont get a good seal anymore in the copper pipe. There is to much space between them and air sucks into the pipe. If anything you have to probably buy a 5/8 dowel rod which is slightly bigger than half inch and sand it down u...see more »Wow that is to much work to attach a handle with all those dowels in the pull handle and trying to mount it to the solid stock. There is a much easier way to make one using a 1/2 inch copper pipe bib, a 5/8 inch wood dowel, drawer pull handle and the 1/2 inch OD O rings. Here is a video of it on youtube also. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGyl8w16VbUWhen you go to the hardware store to buy a half inch dowel they are no longer half inch anymore, after the milling/sanding process. But instead a half inch are 3/8 inches now and with a rubber O ring on the dowel you dont get a good seal anymore in the copper pipe. There is to much space between them and air sucks into the pipe. If anything you have to probably buy a 5/8 dowel rod which is slightly bigger than half inch and sand it down until you finally get a nice fit in the copper pipe. What I did was using coarse grit sandpaper I started sanding the dowel a few inches at a time starting at one end, rotating it as I sanded it to keep it round to avoid getting a flat spot in one area. After a few minutes I took the dowel and tried to insert it into the copper pipe. Then using a Sharpie marker just marked around the pipe then continued to sand the dowel more every few inches until I could get the entire dowel to slide inside the pipe loosely without it getting caught up within the pipe. Then marking about 1/2 or 5/8 inch from the end I marked my line for my O ring. After I tried several attempts to make mine using a small Miter saw, a multi tool tree saw, and pocket knife. The hack saw and the multi tool saw blade were just a slight bit to thick for the O ring and had to either use Plumbing Dope Tape to fill in the loose gaps between the dowel and O ring. With the pocket knife is very clumsy and you risk either cutting and slipping, or not getting a straight cut all the way around the dowel. I found the best tool to cut my groove was a 6' Craft Coping Saw which is just the right width as the O ring itself. Then using a small flat hobby file I slowly sanded the groove down until I got the O ring to fit just right. This is where a pack of 10 O rings come in handy. At first while I tried to get the groove depth just right with the file, and trying to do test fits to see if I needed to file it down more. At first few attempts the groove wasnt deep enough and at first the dowel would fit just nice, but when it came to taking it out the O ring would buckle inside the pipe as it would roll out of the groove and break in half. So after a few more times of filing the groove down and test fitting it, youll break several of the O rings. Thats why its best to buy the multipak instead of just 1 or 2 O rings. Once you finally have the fit just right. I used a drill bit size half the width of the dowel and drilled a small hole about 3/4's the length form the end to the O ring and drilled in the end of the rod for my charcloth to fit into and sanded it smooth. Then using a drill bit the size of a wire hanger or a turkey lace pin which I use as my prick pin. I drilled the hole in the side of the dowel in center from the end of the dowel and the O ring. I had a turkey lace pin left over from a few years ago which I thought would work great for this. And the turkey lace pins come in small or large sizes. You want to use the smaller size for if you use the large size you risk drilling to big of a hole in the side of your dowel and shattering the tip. Then your left with having to recut another O ring groove and do the process all over again. For those who dont know what a turkey lace pin is here is. What with the holidays coming up Im sure there will be plenty of them laying around for everyone to use. They are used to tie up the turkey legs and wings to the body while its cooking. Here is a link to show you for those who dont know what they are. http://www.kitchenworksinc.com/Stainless-Steel-Tur...Then using the drawer pull handle it usually comes with a pan head screw. I just cut the head off the screw using my hack saw and grind the end to a point tip . Then I screwed the one end into the pull handle and then placing the dowel in my vise to keep it straight drilled a hole a size smaller then the screw and then screwed the handle to the dowel. Afterwards I sanded, stained it and spray lacquer the dowel and finished putting it all together. Then I just made a custom leather pouch to keep all my fire making tools altogether instead of spread all over the house trying to find them when I needed them. For I had an old Boy Scout fire piston in my fishing tackle which back then was mainly made of plastic and over the years of being in the shed in the heat, and age became brittle which made me want to make a better piston. So rather than looking for them in camping, fishing tackle or where ever. I made a pouch to keep my fire piston, flint n steel, magnesium striker, charcloth, Vaseline, and spare O rings all together in one place. I hope this helps anyone looking to make their own fire piston or any other ideas they may have. Good luck

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  • Stun Your Friends With These Handmade Harry Potter Wands!

    If you dont have a lathe. Again go to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap rotatory tool. Or if you know your going to be doing a lot with it then break down and buy yourself a good quality Dremel tool. I use my Dremel religiously I love it. For Dremels were used in the modeling world to do details on models to wood carving and doll house making.

    Depends on what kind of cooking oil your using Emmit and how often you apply it. You can also use cooking oil to pre-oil leather to if you dont have Neatsfoot oil which is commonly used for conditioning leather. But it depends on what kind of oil you use. Corn oil or Vegetable oil is best used but Granola oil and Olive oil over time can and does go rancid. But it also depends on how much oil you put on it. Like if your the type of person who puts oil on every 2 or 3 months and you have a very heavy oil build up it will go rancid over time. But if your putting your cooking oil on every 6 months or once a year then you wont get so much of a build up that you don't risk of it going rancid. Even Neatsfoot oil for leather goes rancid in time. But you normally dont oil your leather every day ...see more »Depends on what kind of cooking oil your using Emmit and how often you apply it. You can also use cooking oil to pre-oil leather to if you dont have Neatsfoot oil which is commonly used for conditioning leather. But it depends on what kind of oil you use. Corn oil or Vegetable oil is best used but Granola oil and Olive oil over time can and does go rancid. But it also depends on how much oil you put on it. Like if your the type of person who puts oil on every 2 or 3 months and you have a very heavy oil build up it will go rancid over time. But if your putting your cooking oil on every 6 months or once a year then you wont get so much of a build up that you don't risk of it going rancid. Even Neatsfoot oil for leather goes rancid in time. But you normally dont oil your leather every day either. Normally you oil your leather just prior to putting your leather finish on just like you do wood. You use Mineral Oil for wood to then you wipe off the excess then after its absorbed into the wood you seal the wood to protect it with varnish, shellac or whatever your going to use to finish the wood. Then once every 6 months or so you may apply Mineral Oil or cooking oil to the wood just enough for it to soak through your wood finish into the wood to recondition the wood before you wipe off the excess. Same thing. I to have been oiling an old rolling pin for years that was my mom's and I either use vegetable oil or Mineral Oil and oil it every so often just as you use Mineral Oil to recondition your wood cooking utensils like your wood spoons and such then wipe off the excess then lightly wash them to get any more excess oil off before you use the wood utensils the next time. Usually Ill oil them the night before let them soak over night then wipe them off with a paper towel or cotton rag then lightly wash them with dish soap to get any residue or excess off before I put them back in the utensil jar, and my wood spoons are as old as I am that they were my mom's.

    No Problem. Your welcome. Im always willing to help others or give others advice to help them with their projects. Just as others have helped me in the past or I had to learn the hard way. I have an expensive Paasche airbrush just for my artist paints and didnt want to contaminate my paint bottles with wood and leather dyes, then mix my artist paints in. And one day while shopping at Harbor Freight I found this airbrush set on sale for $6.99 and thought hey I can use this for my leather dyes and wood stain. This is the one I bought.http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.htmlAnd if it doesn't work or it gets messed up I wont be out a $100 like I would if I used my Paasche airbrush. And Ive used it eversince. I just take a permenant Sharpie and mark the bottles with...see more »No Problem. Your welcome. Im always willing to help others or give others advice to help them with their projects. Just as others have helped me in the past or I had to learn the hard way. I have an expensive Paasche airbrush just for my artist paints and didnt want to contaminate my paint bottles with wood and leather dyes, then mix my artist paints in. And one day while shopping at Harbor Freight I found this airbrush set on sale for $6.99 and thought hey I can use this for my leather dyes and wood stain. This is the one I bought.http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.htmlAnd if it doesn't work or it gets messed up I wont be out a $100 like I would if I used my Paasche airbrush. And Ive used it eversince. I just take a permenant Sharpie and mark the bottles with Leather dye on one bottle, leather finish on another and then do the same thing on another bottle that says wood stain. So I dont mix up the wood stains with my leather dyes.

    You dont need a lathe. Just use a hand held Dremel and do your decorative wood carving. And some lathes wont hold that small piece of wood. Unless you have a really good lathe that does. Most lathes Ive worked on could only hold pieces of wood for making table or chair legs. Anything smaller than a 1 1/2 it wouldnt hold so it depends on what kind of lathe you have.

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  • Size Markings for Wrenches and Sockets

    yep that works great to I couldnt think of what they were called. But I know that both the crayon and Litho Wax pencils you get in a art supply store both are made from beeswax and they work great to

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  • MichaelT177 commented on ericsnis's instructable Size Markings for Wrenches and Sockets2 months ago
    Size Markings for Wrenches and Sockets

    Instead of using paint.Why didnt you use a crayon or an artist Litho Wax pencil? I have been doing that for years. Eversince the late 70s or early 80s if you were into Dungeons & Dragons and you bought any of the games. The dice would come with a small white or yellow crayon to use on the dice to be able to read the etch markings on the dice better. I have always used a white or yellow crayon on my tools from wrenches, sockets especially the smaller ones and drill bits. Makes it easier to read. I found that white, yellow or red is best to read on tools.

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  • MichaelT177 commented on goodphysics's instructable 42oz Wooden Beer Mug3 months ago
    42oz Wooden Beer Mug

    The only problem is you have to work very fast with it and keep it heated at the same time. And do not try to do it in the winter time. I did that once when I tried to recoat one of my wood mugs. And since I don't have a warm garage to work in. I was doing it outside in Nov using my camping stove to heat it. And when I went to apply the pitch to my mug about half way done the brush froze inside the mug as the pitch started to set up and cool. So I had to reheat the mug to loosen the pitch to free the brush from inside. I ended up having to heat up just enough of the pitch and pour it into the mug and just swish it around inside until I got it evenly coated and poured. Just be careful I have found once a while that some people are allergic to Pine Pitch, so either using beeswax or food g...see more »The only problem is you have to work very fast with it and keep it heated at the same time. And do not try to do it in the winter time. I did that once when I tried to recoat one of my wood mugs. And since I don't have a warm garage to work in. I was doing it outside in Nov using my camping stove to heat it. And when I went to apply the pitch to my mug about half way done the brush froze inside the mug as the pitch started to set up and cool. So I had to reheat the mug to loosen the pitch to free the brush from inside. I ended up having to heat up just enough of the pitch and pour it into the mug and just swish it around inside until I got it evenly coated and poured. Just be careful I have found once a while that some people are allergic to Pine Pitch, so either using beeswax or food grade shellac is the only thing you can use to coat your wood eatery. Enjoy

    Ummm not really. After you let it sit 24 hrs you can wash them to remove some of the pine nutty taste. And after a few uses the taste wears off. But if you ever had a pine needle tea itll taste like that for a few uses and washes. But good thing the Pine Pitch seals up the wood really good and waterproof it. Just never let your mug sit with water in it over night for long period. I did once and completely forgot and left some water standing in my mug over night after I rinsed it out and it developed a bad crack in the base of my tankard and had to sand my tankard to the bar wood and refill the crack with epoxy and saw dust as a filler then recoat the entire thing with Howards beeswax and then sealed it with shellac.

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  • MichaelT177 commented on goodphysics's instructable 42oz Wooden Beer Mug3 months ago
    42oz Wooden Beer Mug

    Why didn't you use Brewer's (Pine) Pitch to seal the wood mug? It works better than beeswax and Butcher's Conditioner. Other than that love the mug. Great work.

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