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The circuit is simple:
Here's a diagram.
Hey Paul,I really like this project of yours and would love to try it out....but i am worried about my safety since we are talking about kilovolts here so i dont want it mess up while making any necessary connnections...i tried looking up the link you have given below (http://wiki.4hv.org/index.php/Ignition_coil) but its broken or the page shows some wierd things....so can you please mail me the ckt diagram to (firstname.lastname@example.org)....Thanks a lot!!!...
Tabletop Tesla Coil
i am making it for a science project
Pipe Dream: A Low Voltage Tesla Coil or 'Slayer Exciter'
Making Light from Magnetism: Electromagnetic Induction & the Bedini Machine
Uninsulated wire will not work. When you apply electricity to it, it will short circuit across the turns of wire. You must use insulated wire. Usually this means enamel insulation on magnet wire.
I have 1500 ft of un-insulated 24 gauge magnet wire. Can I use that. Plz reply at email@example.com
It's easy to convert a Tesla coil to a slayer exciter, not so easy to do the reverse. Your coil is very small, and while you can probably get it to resonate and make sparks, it won't be much. I don't know how much voltage/amperage a mosquito swatter makes, but I'll bet it isn't much. You'd be better off with an Oil Burner Transformer (OBIT), or Neon Sign Transfomer (NST). Then of course you need a spark gap and capacitors . . . PBT
Tesla coils aren't so difficult to make or tune, but they have parameters that have to be observed or they simply won't work.Here are some ideas to try on your slayer exciter:Test both primary and secondary coils for continuity. I don't know what gauges of wire you're using, but a single break could cause all the problems you're having. Test the primary first with a multimeter and see what the resistance is; then test the secondary. They should both be 0 ohms or close to it (the 2ndary will have higher resistance than the primary).One at a time, replace all your components and test for proper operation. Try sliding your (proven) primary up on the 2ndary, a half inch at a time, and see if that improves performance. Check all the connections in the wire harness. If you insert a wire too far and clamp down on insulation instead of bare wire, you'll have trouble. I've done this myself. Use a straight, plain fluorescent tube to test for output. A properly functioning SE will excite a CFL, but if the CFL circuitry has a fault, you may be trying to light up a dud. Paul
Frankly I don't know what to do. The coil does not want to work at all XD. I have tried every possible combination known to mankind (haven't changed the voltage though). And yes, i did do a research on tesla coils and they are insanely difficult to tune and much more frustrating. Please help me in some way. I need to know whats weong with my coil.
Now i know the problem. I put an led at the site of the primary wire and for reasons unknown,there is no current passing through the primary (the led didn't lit up). Could you please check my connections? I am using tip-31c, same transistor as yours. Is there something wrong with the transistor?
Also, as for the polarities,they are in opposite directions.
Thaankk yoou very much for your time, but the coil still isn't working :( . I have followed everything without any errors as far as i know, but still i am not able to light the CFL. I have attached some of the photos of my coil, please do reply any problems if you find any. Thank you very much in advance.
There are no overlapping and but there are very tiny gaps which i believe don't really matter. My transistor is a TIP-31C. Yes i did scrape of insulation and to check the connections i used multimeter. I am using a 9V battery and will defiinitely try different voltages. Also, is there a way to check if the circuit is working using a multimeter while it is on?
First make sure your LED will light up at the proper voltage. You can't test continuity with a bulb that won't light at the found voltage. Your circuit board looks OK, but it's kind of hard to trace the wiring when it's all the same color. ;-) Your diode connection could be tighter. Try to eliminate any excess wiring, shorten your leads to straight, efficient lengths and get rid of any twists or tangles. Make sure your clipped together connections are really connected. Low voltage connections can be very finicky.Reduce the primary by one turn and test for function. Keep reducing the number of primary turns until you get output. If you never get any output go back to 3 turns and try something else. Sometimes moving the primary higher up the secondary helps. Make sure you have the polarity of the primary connections correct. The exciter will not work if the polarity is reversed--or not very well.Do the dark room test for sparks. If necessary, check or swap out individual components one at a time to see if they are defective. Sometimes manufactured diodes and resistors are not what they are claimed to be.Try to find a straight, plain fluorescent tube. They are the easiest kind to light up with a slayer exciter.
It's hared ti diagnose electronic problems from a distance. but you wiring seems correct. Did you wrap the secondarywithout gaps and with no overlapping of wire? Your primary connection is too long and tangled; tangles affect resonance. What transistor did you use? Is it a NPN or PNP? Try touching the base of the CFL to the secondary when it's energized. In a darkened room, hold a piece of metal very near the end of the top wire of the secondary and see if you get a spark.By the way, did you scrape the insulation off the ends of all the wires? Not to be snide, but enamel insulation can be hard to see, but of course you need clean connections in order for the device to work.Try different voltages, both lower and higher.
It's hared to diagnose electronic problems from a distance, but your wiring seems correct. Did you wrap the secondary without gaps and with no overlapping of wire? Your primary connection is too long and tangled; tangles affect resonance. What transistor did you use? Is it a NPN or PNP? Try touching the base of the CFL to the secondary when it's energized. In a darkened room, hold a piece of metal very near the end of the top wire of the secondary and see if you get a spark, however tiny.By the way, did you scrape the insulation off the ends of all the wires? Not to be snide, but enamel insulation can be hard to see, but of course you need clean connections in order for the device to work.Try different voltages, both lower and higher.
No topload is necessary. You might get better propagation if you stand the secondary up, vertically.Paul
There's no exact number of ratio. A smaller secondary will work, but it will not output as much as a larger one. You'll have to experiment with the primary. On your coil I'd try 3 to 5 turns of larger gauge wire to start with. It looks like you have too much in the photo.Paul
I have checked my transistor with multimeter and is fine. My secondary windings are about 5.512 inch long and an inch in diameter and has about 68.5 inches of wire. How many turns should be there in the primary?
Also, do i need to attach a top loadfor it to work?
Pleaseeee reply fast......i need tis project urgently...i made the same exciter board as shown in the picture and am using a 9V battery.My secondary is 1 inch thick and has ~300 windings. Ihave tried many combinations with the primary but am not able to light even a single LED.plzz help
You will not be able to light LEDs. You need fluorescent tubes or CFLs.Follow the wiring directions as to polarity, or the exciter will not work properly. If you have already switched poles around, you may have ruined your transistor--but follow the Instructable and try again with a fluorescent bulb of some kind.Paul
Starting from scratch costs run like this: magnet wire, $20-30 depending on how much you use and gauge; electronic components, $5 total; PVC tubing, about $3; fluorescent tubes, etc, whatever you have lying around. $40 would probably cover it all.The cost would be less if you have some of this stuff lying around, or if you use wood instead of perf board, etc. At these low voltages common wood and plastics would not be out of line. Sometimes you can salvage magnet wire from the windings of old electric motors, for example.Paul
This project seems very interesting, But could you tell me the full cost?
I rather think the rippling is the result of the power pulsations inherent in the transformer design. In the case of the Slayer Exciter, the transistor is pulsing on-off-on-off to the primary coil. It would be interesting to see if the pulsations changed with faster transistors.There's not going to be much in the way of corona or arcing with a 6 or 9 volt slayer exciter. There's just not enough voltage for such a display. It's kind of the point too--achieving resonance at such low voltage is very interesting.
Sounds kind of dangerous, actually. First you have to open a fluorescent tube (full of mercury vapor), then fill lit with brine? What do you use for a center electrode? Any liquid filled capacitor is going to be very lossy too. That's why most coilers use commercially made caps. Their insulation is superior, so you lose less power through corona.Still, it's an interesting idea. I once made caps out of old incandescent bulbs (no toxic gas there, just argon). They did work, but the dielectric stress of Tesla coil pulsations made them crack. Fortunately I was using dry filler--copper coated BBs--instead of liquid.
High voltage car ignition coil project
Thanks. As long as the questions are rational, I always reply, and if I have new info to add, I do that too.Paul
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