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Chainsaw Mill Alaskan - Improvised
It would seem a LOT safer to simply mount an electric circular saw upside down (underneath) a table board. This would give you a MUCH more stable platform for your intended purpose.
I really like your design, especially since most DIY chainsaw mills require a lot of welding and expensive materials that almost make ordering a professionally made model attractive. My only question is why not drill a second hole in the other end of the bar & run through a piece (threaded rod?) to lend added stability to your board? Spacers (wood blocks, washers, nuts?) between the chain bar & your board & a nut spun down the threaded rod onto the top of the board would keep the spacing exact & eliminate any chance of variance from 1 end to the other. And if a very wide cut was needed, the end rod could be quickly removed, allowing the mill to operate as currently constructed. Let me know what you think, & thank you very much for this design, as it will probably be the foundation of my mill build. Good luck, keep the ideas coming, & thanks again!
I made something very similar to this last year, but I like yours better. A problem I had was there was not enough strength when the bar (I used square tubing, u use a board) is bolted to only one end and I would get a tollerance diffenence measurement on one end of the bar ( where it was bolted) versus the open side, so the boards were not perfectly flat. This occurs especially on long cuts. Even though u do something similar it looks like u have more leverage with the L-strap u use against the slide bar attached to your chainsaw bar. The stronger that is the better for getting straighter boards... Also the sliding bar must be strong and mounted well... I remember the nuts I used (on the bolt/s going through my chainsaw bar) loosening themselves during cuts too! Had to switch to nylock nuts...I'll make one more like yours now. Good job.PS : I also made a square beam out of a log freehanded once and it came out pretty good.
I agree with AndrewK68 great concept but not safe, growing up in the logging/saw mill industry I've seen plenty of people cut open and a few deaths. Chain saws need absolute respect and this mod needs more attention with kickbacks and waste grab. I can see a huge risk of someone wearing a blade or a spear of timber.
Looks like a simple and good idea. You could use a triangular shelf bracket in place of the L-bracket and it would not bend up as easily.
Nice :D No, but it sure does fly! ;)You should try writing something in Norwegian some time. It's so much easier :D
I have just done two cuts so far, but I am very excited and look forward to more fun cutting. My impression is that i holds the angle well. You have to support the chainsaw and pay attention so it does not lean over to a side. A wider board might help the long side cut. But you need to support the chainsaw for the short side cut to be straight. And the log needs to be supported so it does not roll.
Nice :D No, but it shure does fly! ;)(You should try writeing something in norwegian some time. It's so much easier :D )
You may find if using a smaller HP saw that a skip tooth chain works better.The first cut is the one that sets the rest up so take some time to get it right.
The chain is a ripping chain sharpened 10 degrees angle.
I cut a small spruce. The bar is 20" but the log was about 10". The saw is a 55ccm3.
Chainsaw Mill Alaskan
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