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  • Nikiniku commented on F4916's instructable How to Desalinate Seawater2 months ago
    How to Desalinate Seawater

    FlorinJ,I don't understand. Do you mean that the enemy might find you?

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  • Nikiniku commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw6 months ago
    5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw

    I have to wonder what is wrong with you.You certainly are weird and have been going to extraordinary lengths to prove that. Well, I'm done here. There's no use in arguing with...whoops, I almost forget this sites's dictum on "niceness." I'll just say that I actually understated my good experiences with WD40 in order to avoid exaggeration. The truth is, it has never failed me, and it was even sometimes successful in doing things that I hadn't thought possible. Of curse, such effectiveness has no impact on someone who KNOWS that a product is no good. Such people are impervious to reality checks. As True Believers, NOTHING, especially the real world, can shake their opinions. Have a good day. Never mind the reality. If you will it to be a good day, it had better be a good day if ...

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    I have to wonder what is wrong with you.You certainly are weird and have been going to extraordinary lengths to prove that. Well, I'm done here. There's no use in arguing with...whoops, I almost forget this sites's dictum on "niceness." I'll just say that I actually understated my good experiences with WD40 in order to avoid exaggeration. The truth is, it has never failed me, and it was even sometimes successful in doing things that I hadn't thought possible. Of curse, such effectiveness has no impact on someone who KNOWS that a product is no good. Such people are impervious to reality checks. As True Believers, NOTHING, especially the real world, can shake their opinions. Have a good day. Never mind the reality. If you will it to be a good day, it had better be a good day if it knows what's good for it.

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  • Nikiniku commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw6 months ago
    5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw

    I had a reply, but then I saw the cautionary note about being nice, so I'll content myself with this: lubricate-- apply a substance such as oil or grease to (an engine or component) to minimize friction and allow smooth movement. Yes, that's what WD40 does for me. Maybe the word "lubricate" has a different meaning for you. That's the only way that your words could have any meaning. However, WD40 does for me what I want it to do, so I'm happy with it. I'm sorry that it doesn't do for you what you think "lubricate" means.

    txsvelo,Actually, I think Curvecrazy is the only one who has ever said that WD40 is not a lubricant, It's amazing how often the "debunkers" get things wrong, and I think that that claim is usually more of an attempt to mislead and deceive rather than of just being mistaken. Whenever I hear someone claim that something is untrue because it has been debunked, I give him almost zero consideration. As far as I'm concerned, "it's been debunked" usually just means that the person who says that doesn't agree with whatever has been "debunked." They say, "it's been debunked" rather than saying, "I don't agree with that."

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  • Nikiniku commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw7 months ago
    5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw

    Have you actually had success with this method, or is only theorizing?

    What? you drive a Roberts tip into a slot or Philips screw? How?

    That sound good to me. I know that my diamond-dust tipped screwdrivers do the job, so it makes sense that your solution would also work, I'll get some for when the diamond-dust wears off my screwdrivers. I don't know how soon that will be, but it has to happen eventually. Thanks for the original tip. I've been looking for ways to remove stubborn screws for some time, and I've never seen your solution before.

    I have to assume that it's some sort of lubricant like WD40, and that being so, is not for extracting screws from wood? Am I right?

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  • Nikiniku commented on Mrballeng's instructable The Only knot you need to know. 8 months ago
    The Only knot you need to know.

    The taut-line hitch is the most useful and indispensable knot that I know.

    I just happened to see the "nice comments" statement. Wise words, and I have now made the world a better place by deleting most of my remarks. I now feel like a better man. If I can only keep this up on other sites....

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  • Cleaning Rust Off of Tools Without Harsh Chemicals

    glittie12mDoes Evaporust turn the tools black? Most such products I've tried do, and I don't like black tools.

    capernius,That couldn't be more wrong. Are you joking?

    GenerallyOdd,"pass them over whatever you've used before you put it away."What? I don't understand.

    "...WD40 which is little more than kerosene in a spray can."This is utterly false, and complete nonsense.

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  • How To Cut A Straight Line Using A Skill Saw Or Jig Saw

    I deleted my third posting after finding that my "breakthrough" method was not as good as I thought it was. However, I'll keep trying, so your comments give me hope. It's just that when I tried to upload my photos, I saw some comments to the effect that illustrations could not be uploaded without some kind of paid membership. Thanks to you, the next time I see those words, I'll check further.

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  • How To Cut A Straight Line Using A Skill Saw Or Jig Saw

    After my rant/vent, I decided to see if I could do something about this deplorable, inexplicable situation. I decided to see if I could find a way to fix the problem rather than to just scream about it. I now think that I have, and it was easier than I had expected; in fact, I now see/remember that circular saws already have a little notch on the bar/metal strip in front of the blade that was put there for this purpose. It's always been there, so why doesn't it work? I'm not sure, unless I was attempting to rely upon it without also using the built-in guide. The combination of the two should do the job, but I am going to go further. My solution is to affix a small horizontal plate in front of the notch so as to expand the "crosshairs." I'm just trying to decide on the materi...

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    After my rant/vent, I decided to see if I could do something about this deplorable, inexplicable situation. I decided to see if I could find a way to fix the problem rather than to just scream about it. I now think that I have, and it was easier than I had expected; in fact, I now see/remember that circular saws already have a little notch on the bar/metal strip in front of the blade that was put there for this purpose. It's always been there, so why doesn't it work? I'm not sure, unless I was attempting to rely upon it without also using the built-in guide. The combination of the two should do the job, but I am going to go further. My solution is to affix a small horizontal plate in front of the notch so as to expand the "crosshairs." I'm just trying to decide on the material for this purpose. A sheet of clear plastic would be great, but plastic does tend to scuff up and become opaque. A strip of metal would also work. Anything that would give a better "fix" upon the position of the blade would do.Choosing the "sight" material and accurately positioning the "crosshairs" in the "sight" are the only considerations. To lock in the correct "sight set" I would first fix the Circular saw in place by simply sawing a slit in a piece of plywood long enough to hold the circular saw in place. Then, I would mark the "sightpiece" I have attached so as to leave no doubt as to where the circular saw needs to be placed to follow a line accurately and precisely. I should have waited until I had done the job, but this is something that has always irritated me so much that I couldn't keep quiet any longer. NOW TO DO IT.

    So it's worse than I had thought: the circular saw industry actually makes saws that require instructions such as yours to operate. I had thought the fault was mine. I had thought I just didn't know how to operate my saw. I just couldn't imagine how an industry wouldn't have perfected its design after such a long period so that anyone could pick up a saw and do his job without special instructions such as yours. I call that shocking and disgusting. I'd like to sue, bur that would be a waste of time. While I greatly appreciate your advice, it does make me angry, not at you, of course, but at the industry that permits this situation to continue. It's unbelievable. Sorry, for an outburst when my words should have been directed to showing my appreciation for your help, but now that I know...

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    So it's worse than I had thought: the circular saw industry actually makes saws that require instructions such as yours to operate. I had thought the fault was mine. I had thought I just didn't know how to operate my saw. I just couldn't imagine how an industry wouldn't have perfected its design after such a long period so that anyone could pick up a saw and do his job without special instructions such as yours. I call that shocking and disgusting. I'd like to sue, bur that would be a waste of time. While I greatly appreciate your advice, it does make me angry, not at you, of course, but at the industry that permits this situation to continue. It's unbelievable. Sorry, for an outburst when my words should have been directed to showing my appreciation for your help, but now that I know the truth I am furious, damned furious. I'd probably cut of my fingers if I tried to use my saw right now. Anyway, thanks a million for opening my eyes.

    I removed my first two rants after finding a way to insure accurate cuts with circular saws exactly where intended and without bothersome measurements. To illustrate my method, I had intended to upload three photos. Unfortunately, I now find that to upload images you have to pay, so I won't be submitting my solution after all. I won't be doing it in text, either, because I don't think that words would do the trick. All I can say is that with the guide that all circular saws have in front of the blade (usually a notch), and the guide to the right that is parallel to the blade, AND the additional "crosshair" that I add with a small panel of transparent Lexan (A plastic), you will always be able to place the cuts where you want them.

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