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The Logitech B525 is powered easyly by the USB of the Raspi itself...
I may actually have a need for that! If i can do the ible with a USB-Camera (i see no problem there) one could use it as long-range remote camera for archery:Place it close to the target facing the taget with zoom (Needs a bit of distance like 1m for material safety) and access the stream with a tablet at the shooting line. I think the access can be done with VLC so an intentional delay can also be introduced...
you may get away with a low power HD like the blue series without any power adapter. the green series of WD should take even less...http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/252217-32-lowest-power-consumption-hard-drive
jepp. 1.7w average for read/write. add a big cap as peak-puffer and you should be golden :)
as an electronic engineer, this was clear to me. :)but I see what I misunderstood: I thought, you plug in both USB cords into the same machine with 2 limited ports to get enough power for the HDD. like: 2 powerlimited USB = 1 powerful USB.but it seems you use an own, external power brick to power the thing. yesv in this vase you only need to connect the reference aka 0V aka GND from both USBs.5V from power brick, D+ and D- from USB.
what we did in a product of ours (medical device) we had a voltage reference. we measured that and knew: xyz bit = 1.125V with this, you can calibrate the internal reference which is not very accurate.if you want ho insane and check the external reference as well, add a second one with half the voltage and compare if the factor in bits measured is factor 2 (plus/minus 1-2 bit). but that shouldn't be necessary here... it was in the medical device.also, be sure to choose an opamp with a high input-resistance and a really low input-drop. I used a LTC2050 once to measure a signal down to a few micro volts. www.linear.com/docs/1221if your offset is not 0, you have to calculate for this input-loss in the end: outputV=(inputV+inputLoss)*amplification
nice build!may I ask why the thing didn't work with the perpendicular traces?also, if I understand correctly, you just etched/carved the bottom layer and used the top layer as placeholder for the wire bridges?
Enable Auto Leveling for your 3D Printer with an inductive sensor (Marlin Firmware)
PRINTTABLE the Affordable, Attractive IKEA Lack Table Hack to create a 3D Printer
Nice and good 'ible. 2 Votes from me :)
Modify PC SMPS As Benchtop Power Supply
although you cut into the bolts and called it an error, those bolts now look somewhat cool and I could call it innovative art! :)cmon... such a big project and you expect all how's smooth? lessons learned you have, young padavan. ;)
This wood... it just looks beautiful!Nice and unconventuional use of it in this tool. Congrats!
Wedge it in place with the wedge made in step 10
Di an image search on google for "plane iron blade" and follow the images to the sites who sell them. There are a lot of supplier for them...Even amazon sells them:https://www.amazon.com/Faithfull-PLANE9RB-Replacem...
typo. cure. not cute. one key apart ;)
some white LED use UV light + a phosphor to output white light.. thus, those would have UV.most white LEDs today use a royal blue LED combined with a phosphor now. So a lot less UV will be there, but not none.In any case, one single LED in the range of 5-50mA will not output enought UV to be damaging to your eyes if not stared at ultraclose range for long time.Since the die is bare in this scenario, the emition is more or less uniform in all directions. So the power fall really really fast: twice the distance = 1/1000the of the power per cm^2
think of it in another way: the compost made off these branches will help the tomatoplants in the next year. so it is more of an offsetting than an immediate reuse. ;)
Dug a bit around on the tubes... Not much etches into acrylic, lexan or such stuff...However, i came across this: http://www.bandsmerch.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/201...They simply etched it with a laser like an epilog-rig. So: If you have access to an epilog, that would make for some spectacular panes.
beautiful!one idea came me when seeing the design: pcb-etching!maybe it is possible to etch a pcb-design into the plexiglass by means oft chemicals. would need a non-inverted etch (etch where the traces are)...
Wow! I tip my hat to you for the solder-job! HAd to solder sub-mm-pitch in the past and i know how hard it can be :)Also: The LED will shine mostly in UV-light since the yellow stuff is a mix of phosphorous which will glow in the UV-light of the LED. So Maybe you can also scavenge the phos. and sprinkle it on an object to make it somewhat glowy in the almost invisible UV-light... Just an idea.
Were did you buy the bendable NFC-strips?
Maybe the top half could be glazed... Would cut down on evaporation and the lower pot still gives off his wather to the soil...
safety is always good. thanks for posting the 'ible.I really would suggest to remove the adjustable resistor and have only the LDR there. Be sure your LDR and the removed adjustable resistor have the same value-range to be able to use 0-100% PWM.If you connect the LDR in parallel, you will NOT be able to use it 0-100% since you will create a parallel circuit...you know the formula: 1/Rtot=(1/Rldr)+(1/Radjust)so the worst thing: if you have the adjustable resistor on 0ohm, would will always have 0 ohm across all. with changing the adjustable resistor, you change the complete range of possible PWM...just save the hassle and replace it with the LDR... don't go parallel... ;)
just be sure you also discard the part used to cut the rope. it will be badly damaged due to the friction and heat generated.
Well written 'ible! Enjoyed reading it although I don't have a dryer... :)I once had to get a paracord thru a vent one day and fishing line worked were well for the first "preline". If you don't have tape at hand, simply poke a little (!) hole in the bottom of the cup and tie a little twig-part under the bottom of the cup.Aso: be sure your cup is smaller than the smallest parts of the vents... helps with avoiding embarrassing situations... as I had. ;)
Things to build out of CD/DVD-Drives
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