Tell us about yourself!
Worked with half as many transducers as needed, albeit not as well as it would have with all of them (The Chinaman I purchased them from couldn't count, and so I only got half my order.) I plan on making the full levitator sometime soon...
According to the Model number and link you have posted for the BigLev, this is what the unit looks like http://imgur.com/a/lnq8jHowever, according to the same link, the MSO-A1640H12T visually appears to be what you are using.I've ordered all the necessary parts, can't wait to build it!
So not the ones you have pictured?The link doesn't work for me.Thanks for responding!
I'm considering making the Biglev, (Mainly because I'd like to source 72 16mm transducers, make your tractor beam first, and then make the biglev) but you state that it is more difficult to levitate fluids. How much more difficult? Is it still possible to do so, or is it more unrealistic?
Also, the transducers you use for your Biglev look more like the MSO-A1640H12, rather than the "MSO-A1640H10" that you have written. Which ones should I get?
I do realize that it wouldn't spin forever, but wouldn't it spin longer?
I'm guessing magnetic friction?
Here's an idea: make the center "bearing" a brushless motor, and have it act as a generator, as well as a motor. The initial spin would charge a few capacitors, and when it would slow down, the current flow would reverse, turning the "generator" into a motor. The system would switch back and forth until it stopped moving (due to friction/obviously isn't perpetual motion).
Never actually thought to check McMaster.Yea, I am not as fond of those wheels that McMaster has, so I'll probably just stick with the robotshop ones.The people of robotshop were actually kind enough to send me a 3D cad of the wheel, and so I think I'll just custom design an "adapter plate" to have the screws of an actual hub line up with the center of the wheel.If only I had access to a mill :P I might try using a drill press, but will probably go with the adapter idea first.Thanks for your input!
Could you include a schematic for the electronics layout?
Would a wifi SD work? If I plugged it into an adapter, and the adapter into the USB port, would anything happen?
None of those tutorials involve feeding data through the USB port of the Arduino. They all involve integrating a bluetooth module into the existing code.
What is worth a try?To embed a Bluetooth module into the program?The issue is, there already is one embedded into it; it simply doesn't work. The code wasn't designed by me, and is too complex for myself or any of my highschool team members to figure out why it doesn't work (Though, we have tried quite a lot so far.)Due to time constraints, we'd simply like to go from the USB end of it.
Link to Operation of it:https://www.instagram.com/p/BOvRPhSgG6huIEMp_TeMrT...Am very happy with it. Once the electrodes heat up, there is zero noise. The music comes across quite well, and the mosfets stay cool/warm, well within acceptable range. The only problem is, is powering it. Currently use a moped battery, which allows it to run for a continuous 1.5-2 hours, followed by a recharge.
Why not just put Makeblock's mDraw softwarte on it? The design appears identical to theirs... :P
Why not just put Makeblock's mDraw software on it? The design appears identical to theirs... :P
That shopping list.You got my vote.
That's as easy as getting a few photoresistors, arduino, and some method of triggering the screen (The design I used a while back involved solenoids). Unfortunately, I never really documented it, and didn't save the code. It only took a grand total of 15 minutes to write, and I was fresh at arduino IDE at the time.(Basically consists of the photo resistor detecting the color change, and the arduino powering the correlating solenoid.)
Seriously thinking of building this for a school funded project (credit will be given where it is due)Could you PM me the exact servos, high torque servo, arduino motor shields, and infrared sensors that you used?
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