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  • RussellR8 commented on thiswayhome's instructable Homemade Extension Cord Winder Mount3 weeks ago
    Homemade Extension Cord Winder Mount

    Only thing to note (unless I missed it) - Any extension lead should be completely unrolled before use. This is especially true for 'high' power gear like a welder or large compressor. There are several factors that effect the reason why but the easiest one to explain - cables get warm but if their rolled and bunched up the heat cant escape and they burn the insulation.Australian/New Zealand standards (ASNZS 3008.1) state that 4 cables bunched together means the capacity of the cable drops to 64%. This is the same as having 4 turns left on the roll meaning your 10amp lead is now only good for 6.4 amps.

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  • RussellR8 completed the lesson Welcome! in the class Woodworking Class4 months ago
  • Buying and Maintaining a 20 year old bandsaw

    The last owner of mine used a 100mm (4") stormwater downpipe fitting in the centre of the lower wheel cover - this is gloriously useless.I have since put a 90mm downpipe with elbow up the right side of the bottom cover. Works wonderfully but limits the ability to tilt the table. I do not tilt the table very often and have just set it up with wing nuts so for those few cuts I just have no dust extraction. I'll add something in another instructable over the next couple of weeks.

    Thanks for the comment - Looking back at the image I see how it could be confusing. I'll try and clear it up.The positive probe is indeed touching the connector on the end of the wire - That is because the connector is still connected to one terminal the capacitor. In effect, the red probe is touching both the lug on the end of the wire *and the terminal on the capacitor.The other [black] probe is on the other terminal of the capacitor - granted it is out of sight in the photo. I assure you that I have both probes in contact with the capacitor terminals.One wire needs to be removed to ensure that I do not have a parallel circuit through the run and start windings of the motor.Hope that clears things up.

    Yeah - I like the instruction manual with mine. That said, It had nothing on servicing the motor's centrifugal switch, what to look for buying second hand and how to get the blade plumb with the guides.It did however have something for the tension but realistically I don't look. You are right to check the manual - I just enjoyed doing this.

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  • Buying and Maintaining a 20 year old bandsaw

    No worries mate. Have fun with it. I was blown away by how much dust was in the start/stop switch and frankly by the earthing wire not even being bolted on - looking back, I can't see that the earth wire had been on at any point in the last 20 years - bad, bad, not good....

    Yeah - I get the 120Volt thing. A 2kW output motor running at around 80% efficiency draws something like 10 amps (off the top of my head). At half the voltage, a 120V rated motor would pull roughly twice the current... makes sense to me anyway.Problem lies with copper loss which is heat in the motor windings developed due to the current 'pushing' through the copper. The heat produced is 'proportional to the change in current squared' so - double the current, quadruple the heat produced.This is in a perfect world though where both motors have the same construction which they obviously won't due to the voltage rating. anyway, enough ranting.

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