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My first guess before seeing the "solutions" (which kinda violate the no tools rule) was to use your mouth to blow it out OR (assuming its clean) just get some suction going with your lips and kinda suck it out.
Just heating (with a torch) and quenching will anneal the piece, making it rubbery soft. I think if you wanted to harden it past the point of 'work-hardened' you might temper it in a toaster oven... I know this works for steel, but I have no experience with silver so I'm just guessing. I don't know if you can temper silver but someone will hopefully chime in.
This is really beautiful and elegant, definitely can hold its own with high priced designer pieces. I'm inspired! One question: you suggest to work harden the rings by 'bypassing' several times, and I couldn't find what that means anywhere. I think bypassing is when you DONT close the circle end to end, but go past that point, aligning the ends side by side (like a bypass ring). Do you mean to bend them into that shape a few times, and THEN close the circle end to end? Thanks for the (extra) help!
That's really beautiful, super cool creative idea. I have 2 questions- when you say you leveled the silicone with soap and water, how do you do that? Also- is that real moss? Thanks for the help!
This is ingenious, even more so in light of the fact that this system doesn't exist where you are. I don't know what's out there already, but this is very marketable for many applications. Not only can the info be accessible via the web, but the info can be visible on an led display at the parking lot or garage. Other uses- to keep a head count for safety purposes such as in a nightclub or a school. Cool project!
You can get led strips anywhere online. They're not likely to be locally available, at least not for me. I got a 15" strip with the USB cord already soldered on for about $5. So mine will have a standard USB wire coming out of the back, instead of a female micro-USB port, which should be fine. It will still plug into a phone charger so no issues there. If you google '5v LED strip' you will be on your way!
Her overall dimensions were 3.5" x 3.5" x 3.5", so with a 1.5" lexan strip you'd want both concrete 'slabs' to be 1". You can make the molds deeper for convenience sake, and just mark a line at 1". I'm making a bigger light, but I liked the ratio she used, it looks just right.... So I'm making a 6" cube, with a 2.5" lexan strip and 1.75" concrete slabs- 1.75" + 2.5" + 1.75" equals 6"- not precisely her ratio but VERY close.
Soulja Boy Tell Em, Crafs Man! Thanks for the video, I've been wanting to do some etching, and this inspired me and schooled me all at once. Easy to follow and it's true- you do have a good voice! Thanks again
There are no metal xylophones! I think, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think a metal version of this would be a glockenspiel. I just wanted an excuse to say glockenspiel, but still....
Cool project! Hey, it looks like there's a different type of braid in the photos... It looks like a chain? It's the back-of-the-neck part of the lanyard in the last photos under the heading 'The finished product'. I keep looking at it to discern if it's just the same thing from a different angle, but it sure looks a lot different. I'd like to make the 'chain' looking braid if it exists! Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks
Generally a two-part epoxy is the thing to use for securing knife handles and scales. Some custom makers get into the fancy industrial epoxies, but the majority seem to go with readily available epoxy options like Loctite, Gorilla, or Devcon. I've used Devcon 2-ton with great results. Get the 'regular' set time stuff, you don't want a 5-minute epoxy... I know people DO use 5-min epoxy, but the more experienced makers will tell you it's no good. The faster an epoxy sets up, the more brittle the bond- not good for a sub-zero day and a metal tool. For about $10, you can get Devcon 2-ton in two bottles (instead of the double syringe setup) which is easier to measure, pour, and store, and is enough for MANY projects.
That's gorgeous! I've seen that kinda 'crisis-cross ribbon' pattern before in woodwork, but I never knew how it was done. This is a great way to use small pieces that look great but aren't big enough on their own. The end grain looks awesome, I think your finished handle is more artistic and interesting looking than just a solid piece of wood. Thanks for the inspiration, I will surely use this technique for future projects
So I'm making a similar kitchen knife, and plan to use basically this method... But what about the pins? Do I epoxy the pins in? Or do I peen the ends lightly? (I'm using 5/32" brass tube for pins, the tube pins look sweet) Thanks for the cool Ible!
Hmmm, lest we actually READ the Instructable before flaming it with condescending, patronizing, yet ironically inarticulate comments. Only the outside, shaped case is made from thin metal, otherwise the average DIYer wouldn't be able to form a phone-shaped box from it. What you failed to notice is that the thin outer box is holding several plates of thicker steel. Sound like it might work? It should, it's exactly the way many bulletproof vests function- a thin, flexible 'carrier' stuffed with steel plate.
You'd didn't even read the instructions... The scissors were used to cut the fabric/foam materials.
I just peed my pants laughing, so it's like I pranked myself. Can I say that on ??
Really nice! I've made a couple like this for gifts, and they were well received. (Also candleholders, I love copper pipe!) I made a huge floor-lamp of copper pipe, with a bare Edison bulb... looks cool, no shade required. Here's a tip for the wiring- you can run a thin piece of wire through (leaving the wire hanging from both ends) and do your soldering, then use that wire to "fish" in your lamp wire - no worries about melting!
Hi, can you please help me? Couple of questions: What does the pot adjust? And, what are the pins for? (You have a 2-pin [far left] and 4-pin [far right] jumper). Thanks for everything!
Say, did you ever end up building the double bass preamp? I'm in the same boat and wondered how you made out. I guess I'm going to try this design and the linked Helmke design and see what works best.
I'm learning a lot from this Ible, very informative. I'm going to build this, maybe someone can help- it looks like for C3, the + goes to Vdd and - to ground? And C2 is + to the 's' row and - to the 'out' row? (And the only 3 unlabeled bits are jumpers, right? black one, red one, bare one) Thanks for posting, this will be my first foray into electronics and your post is very helpful.
Like this a lot, I'm gonna do one soon. If someone wanted to do this but is intimidated by the mitered edges, or doesn't have any nice solid woods around, here's an idea- instead of mitering, you can rabbet the 4 edges of the top piece and plop it on. Then after glueing up, kinda round over the edges by sanding. It looks good even with plywood. Thanks for the inspiration, awesome project!
LEDs and Lighting Class
Absolutely beautiful... this is really inspiring. This is the kind of thing that changes your life,no? Twenty camps in 5 states, that you may not have seen without the camper. And of course a beauty like this is a magnet for meeting new people. Win-win. Thanks for sharing, you've planted a seed! (I will refer my wife to you when I take over the driveway to build one. If I had a dollar for every 'what now' I could build 2 of these.)
That's a Radio Shack Electronics Learning Lab. But there's all sorts of free plans out there for simpler homemade versions- google 'breadboard tester' or 'DIY breadboard station',maybe just 'DIY breadboard'
Sweet speaker! Just read another Ible where the builder used 2 MOSFETs wired parallel to keep the temp down- his was operating at 70c, with heat sink and a pc fan- thought that might be helpful for your heat issue.
The working DIY version I've seen uses 8 ohm and 50 ohm coils from tiny speakers, but I've been unable to find a 50 ohm anything lol, so builder may have custom made the 50 ohm. I've also read that builders hav had success with making a coil with a magnet and copper thread. The insides of old DC adapter plugs are a good source for the copper (useful for DIY guitar pickups)
How about the 200uf capacitors (x2)... Is that correct? I can only find 220uf (10v), is that ok, or is there a better substitute? Thanks for all the extra info, I really appreciate it!
It's only a decade later, hmmm, maybe you're still here? I need to build me a piezo buffer for a bass, and no idea how to build a piezo buffer for bass... Can you offer any instruction? ?
I actually need to build a 'buffer' pedal for an electric upright bass with a piezo pickup (and no preamp). I don't suppose you've got a recipe? I can solder enough to be dangerous, but am electronically ignorant. Love this ible, definitely gonna give er a go... I'm having trouble finding a 440 ohm resistor, am I reading that right? Does it go by any other name? (like Bob, or .044 milliohm or something) Thanks for the cool amp!
Oh no, I wasn't picking anyone's anything apart... I stated at the outset that I didn't want someone ELSE to read that and go forward misinformed, e.g. "Oh, so that's how you use e.g." I agree that this is a pretty good Ible, very good really. There's a difference between sharing info and 'picking apart'. Instructables is about sharing info, and I often find that the comments section makes a great place to do that- sometimes off-topic but always informative and many times humorous. I'm always open to new information, so I suppose I dish it out pretty freely as well. And by the by, the point was that there is no 'conventional use' of the (nonexistent) phrase "for e.g." - we don't say for e.g., we just say e.g. If the poster felt I was being critical, he has my sincere...see more »Oh no, I wasn't picking anyone's anything apart... I stated at the outset that I didn't want someone ELSE to read that and go forward misinformed, e.g. "Oh, so that's how you use e.g." I agree that this is a pretty good Ible, very good really. There's a difference between sharing info and 'picking apart'. Instructables is about sharing info, and I often find that the comments section makes a great place to do that- sometimes off-topic but always informative and many times humorous. I'm always open to new information, so I suppose I dish it out pretty freely as well. And by the by, the point was that there is no 'conventional use' of the (nonexistent) phrase "for e.g." - we don't say for e.g., we just say e.g. If the poster felt I was being critical, he has my sincerest apology.
This looks delicious! I have a suggestion, which adds a step but may be worthwhile. Lightly dust the ribs with a seasoned flour/cornstarch mix and then brown them all over (pretty dark) in a very hot pan with some oil, right before throwing them in the crock pot. Same deal with any slow cooked meat really. It gives you a nice caramelized crust that adds flavor and looks, and purportedly helps seal in moisture. On the grill, you can brown ribs on the grill on high, then wrap them in a sealed foil pouch and turn flame to low (keep just one side lit, keep ribs on other side) let them cook for a couple hours.
Beautiful... I love when mechanics and mathematics converge to produce beauty - there's something otherworldly about it. It feels like a reminder that there is an order to the universe, no? Hence the universal appeal of this type of object. Who can resist handling this and unscrewing it, or clacking the clacky balls on those desktop clacky balls on strings thingamajigs... Have you tried irregular dowels? Thin-fat-thin dowel (like a boa with a mouse in its belly), or a globe, or a cone. I tried to mentally picture if those would work but it made my brain hurt.
Choosing a Camera
You could just trace out the magnet shape in the wood and then chisel out a depression for it, like an inlay. I think if you inlayed the magnet JUST under flush, the saw would slide nicely on the face of the wood, but still stick. An easier way to do the inlay method would be to get say 5 neodymium ROUND magnets, and then you could just drill a hole for the inlaying... one in each corner, one in the middle, like the 5 on a die. Super glue those puppies and done. Cool 'Ible, thanks!
Great table, I hope to make one soon. Can anyone elaborate on the 'dog holes'? I'm drawing a blank on how holes that small can be used to secure stuff to the table. Thanks!
Machine Sewing Class
Just get rid of the discolored symbols... And get some cymbals!
I know this is old, but hopefully you're still here! I'd love to do this to my drums, I'm debating doing this or springing for the Drumlite kit... But I feel like the kit is pretty steep for what it is. Do you remember what it cost you to complete this build? Their 5 drum kit is about $300! I think I can buy a lot of LEDs, a wireless remote, a power source, etc. for more like $100, but that's a pure guess based on nothing lol. So am I way off? Or could I build 5 of these, 2 strips per drum (1 top, 1 bottom), for a Benjamin baby?
Yes, it works with beer bottles. You have to give the (liquid-filled) bottle a good thwack with your palm making good contact with the bottle mouth- you're trying to push an air pocket down and into the bottle so you have to form a little vacuum for an instant. In my experience, the bottom doesn't blow out quite clean enough for gluing back on, but ymmv. You can also score a bottle with a glass cutter and then heat and cool, it will pop along the score line- many Ibles for that. Bottles make cool vases, cups, etc. and the necks make good guitar slides! Win-win
Whoa... She broke up with you and now she's rusting at the bottom of a lake? And I thought the '60s were all about free love.
Maybe it's just me, but I think it would be really cool to just leave it as a nut and wear it as is. Of course remove the threads, and ease the edge around the finger hole, and polish it up... But a stainless nut ring is badassenhoffen jah? You could epoxy a washer to it before you work it, that would look cool too. This has inspired me to get some stainless nuts and bolts for my ears... I could fit a 3/4" nut, and have a bolt in it, or I could fit a 3/4" bolt and put a nut on it! That would be huge! I could be Frank N. Stein. Thanks for the cool 'Ible
Digestive tract. I'm the language police. Woot-woot-woot. Pull ovah.
Golf tees work well too, for a larger hole where a matchstick won't work OR to fill the hole entirely and sorta start over fresh.
I bathe mine once a week, every Wednesday! 2 cats in a bubble bath. Yup. Tearless shampoo and a yellow/green scrubby sponge lol. My cats are hairless Sphynxes, and they need regular bathing. Normal cats produce sebum (oils) and it kinda slides out onto their hair and they clean it. Hairless cats sebum builds up on their skin and needs to be cleaned off. And yes, they get pimples sometimes too. Pretty cool,eh?
Glass is harder than steel? I'm not so sure about that, but it's irrelevant. The outer surface of your windshield is not glass- it's a soft plastic that holds the glass together if it breaks. All modern auto glass is laminated, so it's VERY easy to scratch. I would skip that steel wool hack fer sher. If you're driving a Model T with plate glass windows, give er a try.
Preparing and Gilding a Real Insect
DIY Super Chic Copper Corkscrew Earrings
how to build a gas forge burner
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