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I did the power connections two different ways. In the first build I just hacked a power strip and inserted a switch. I've added a picture (the one showing an open power strip) but if you're not familiar with this, please don't do it. It's not the best method. You really don't want to do it wrong and fry everything in your cabinet or worse yet cause a fire and burn down your house. :-)For the second build I cut off the end of the power strip and replaced it with a standard "PC type" power switch/jack. Then I could use a standard power cord to power the box. The picture showing the back of the box shows it.I haven't searched for them but I imagine there are power strips that have remote switches on them already. That might be the easiest way if you're not familiar with power connections.
Decided to put artwork on the the first one I built. Here's the latest pic of how it turned out.
I had someone ask a question via a PM so thought I'd post it here since others might have a similar question.Question:iCade Parts QuestionHello! I was looking over your post and I've gathered the same materials, I just have a question. What screws you used to attach the iPad display to the plexi, and what screws used to attach plexi to the case. Thank you!Answer:re: iCade Parts QuestionTo attach the iPad screen to the plexi I searched my "spare parts bucket" to find some small black screws (probably 3/8" or 1/2" long). If you have spare screws from computer cases and drives, try those. The iPad has a small tab in each corner. The tab has the holes used to connect the iPad screen to the iPad housing (in the original iPad). Those are the same tabs that I used to connect the screen to the plexi. You have to find screws that will thread through those holes.Connecting the plexi to the to case I used #6 3/4" sheet metal screws. Pre-drill holes and paint the heads black. Tighten by hand so you don't strip them. It's really easy to strip them in the cheep MDF used for the ICade cabinet. In the second ICade I build I used bigger screws, #10's I think, because I had some that I didn't have to paint black. Those were too big and didn't look very good. Stick with the smaller ones.
Bartop Mini Retro Arcade - Raspberry Pi and Customised Icade
I bought it a while ago for a Sony PTZ camera so had it on hand. It's a 12v, 4A adapter with tip positive. The only problem will be the size of the power pin. This looks like the right adapter and is from the same company I purchased the driver board from. It doesn't look like they have the the pin diameter listed, though.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Adapter-Supply-Especially-for-Our-LCD-Controller-Boards-US-Cord-12V-4A-/271168940342?hash=item3f22eda936:m:mZj-95hORUmviiZ34k3DO6g
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