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OK, I looked at the scrolltext (which I didn't realize was sample code) and it SEEMS like you just define the number of displays in the lineint displaynumber = 1;And then the library handles it from there, starting the scroll at the display listed in the "Colorduino.drawChar" line. (display 1 in the sample code)Is this correct?
But does the library handle spanning the displays automatically or does this need to be handled by the user's code?IE if I want to scan "some example text" across three displays, do I just put a "3" into the displays field and it all starts scrolling at display one and goes across to two and off the edge of three?
Build a ESP8266 Flash Adapter!
Your error is thinking it refers to a percentage of the whole. In fact it refers to the percentage of each ingredient relative to the amount of flour. The percentages are not intended to add up to 100.
Colorduino Scrolling Text: More Characters!
How to Hackintosh Your IMac G4
$1 USB to UART-serial flashing device (dongle) with 3.3 V power supply for ESP8266MOD ESP-12 module
Designing the dress of my dreams.
Wow! I read a lot of Instructables that at a glance are not on topics that I'm personally interested in. I do it because I like to open my mind to new ideas and learn new things. It's also fun to read an instructable where the author's enthusiasm or skill is its own reward for the reader. This Instructable was rewarding for both the author's obvious skill and enthusiasm and I enjoyed reading it just to be in awe of one and share in the other. I also gained a greater appreciation for the fancy frocks of my favourite stars of yesteryear like Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn. So thanks for sharing your amazing talent and your joy in creating your dream item. I'm sure it will inspire many others to create their dream thing. Oh, and not to mention it's an incredibly well done Instructable.
I wouldn't mind that this is really just a big product ad if there were at least some details on the product. Like what frequencies does it support? (ie will it work with my carrier in my country? )And the menus on the linked website, at least on the mobile site, are nearly unviewable being they are white text on nearly white menu bars. So if the specs are hidden on the site somewhere, they're mighty hard to find.
Is the Garage Door Open? 8266, IPhone/Android
Nicely done. Simple and functional.
Some of the comments on here should be deleted by the moderators for rudeness and/or sheer stupidity. This is pure K.I.S.S. engineering at its finest. A simple and elegant solution. Also anyone that's ever had a house with a motorized garage door knows that knowing the door's position is valuable information as for safety reasons these doors will either stop or go back up if they encounter resistance. IE hit something like a car bumper or kid's bike not put away properly. IMO, knowing the position of the door is a must have for a smart home integrated door with remote control capabilities. Great work OP.
Retro digital clock
Sunrise Simulator with Adjustable Lamp Colour and Intensity
CopyCat TacoBell Quesadilla Recipe
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NeoBulb (Neopixel Bulb With Sensor)
Can I ask why you repeat the battery code section for every battery? Why not use 'c' as a loop counter and run the function through a loop? Would save a lot of code space. As for your plans to migrate this to a Nano, I don't think you'll have enough pins. Look on ebay or Sparkfun for aCD74HC4067 16 channel multiplexer. With that you can do 16 channels from one pin. If you go that route you could skip the Nano and migrate to an ESP8266 board like a Wemos D1 Mini and go wireless for the monitoring. Have it display info for all 16 batteries on a simple Web page accessible from a browser on a PC or phone. Just some thoughts I had.
Hey this looks great. I think it's going on my projects to do list. One question. Have you tested it against a commercial battery charger/tester (eg. the image B6)?I'm curious how it compares. Especially the capacity rating. Oh and for anyone looking to build this. You can get 18650 battery holders all over ebay for next to nothing. It would save the work of building your own.
16 Channel 18650 Lithium Capacity Tester
This is a really cool project. I especially like the tiki face. One concern I have is with using pallet wood for food use. (everyone's read the pallet safety instructable right? https://www.instructables.com/id/PALLET-SAFETY )Even with HT pallets you don't know for sure what might have been spilled on the pallets in their former life. chemicals, hydraulic oil from a fork lift, etc. One possible alternative might be wood scabs from a wood mill. You can often get them free and they're untreated.
Bat-Box from a Reclaimed Pallet
Wide-toe leather shoes built on a casting
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Easy High Voltage Power Supply
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Custom Slide Rule DIY
First, this is really great work. congrats. Second, personally I always try and avoid cutting off connectors whenever possible and feasible. Instead buy the corresponding mating connector and attach some wires to that. This way if you ever want to sell, repurpose, or return a device to its original use you'll have the ability to do so easily. Plus you'll have the advantage of a connector so you can easily unplug the device for transport, repair, testing, etc. I know this is an obvious tip but it's one I see overlooked a LOT.
I would certainly recommend putting a rubber grommet in the hole the USB cable passes through to prevent shorts.
A solid instructable made great by serving a truly useful task. Nice work! Hmm....I'm already thinking about having items that reach 0 automatically added to a Google Sheet or Google Keep list. There's a ton of expansion potential here that will be fairly easy to do because of the well thought out base platform.
Integrated Inventory Management System
Twitter controled Arduino using #thingspeak
Explain Pre-Algebra Using Blockly
Newspaper is a great all around glass cleaner. Many old school auto detailers swear by it. You can use it with your favourite Windex like substance to clean auto glass, home windows, mirrors, glass shower doors, etc.
How to Clean Your Fireplace Glass
Hack a PC Speaker Into a Guitar Amp
Easy 5$ Pocket Taser
Wiring a Profinet Connector
Glass Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM)
This is a very interesting project. I'm quite curious to see more of it. One issue I foresee is failures of the print-head stepper due to heat. I would suggest 4 custom cooling blocks screwed to each side of the stepper for active water cooling using readily available components from the PC over clocking industry. Use Teflon or silicone tubing and shield it with the same wrap used on the wires. Anyway, please post updates on this project as it progresses.
DIY Logic Gates
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Beginner's guide to ESP8266 and tweeting using ESP8266
Automatic Digital Microscope
Don't forget that the Raspberry Pi is also a Linux box so you can also use native Linux tools. Because of its UNIX like underpinnings, Linux is _designed_ to run things remotely and share output across displays. So you can simply do the following from your Linux PC. Assuming your Raspberry Pi is at 192.168.10.100.linuxPC $: xhost +linuxPC $: ssh -L pi -Y 192.168.10.100password: raspberry raspi $: xterm&then run any Raspberry Pi applications you want from the xterm window that pops up on your Linux PC and they'll display on your PC, while running on the PI.
Open Indirect Ophthalmoscope (OIO)
Window-like lamp from old computer monitors
ESP8266 GMail sender
ESP32 with Arduino IDE
Raspberry Pi Teamspeak 3 Server
Just to be clear, I wasn't trying to be negative on your project at all. I think it's awesome. I just know that everyone's build goes the way it does for reasons not always apparent to others. Like for example, using what you have on hand, or as part of one stage of a larger project etc. Because I realized that this was the case with your project, I just wanted to brainstorm a few options for those that may not have all the parts in the project, or have different parts on hand. As they say, there's always more than one way to do anything.Thanks for the reply and I look forward to checking out your other projects when I have some time.
IoT LED Cheering Stick
SpacedOut - IRL Space Invaders with Drones
This is freaking amazing! One downside though...I expect Adam Sandler will be moving in with you any minute now.
First let me say that this project is both cool and impressive. That said it seems overkill from a hardware standpoint. I've built plenty of projects this way myself. It starts out with me having X pieces of cool hardware in front of me and me thinking "Hmmm...what cool thing can I do with _all_ this stuff?"The parts on hand drive the design rather than the usual design driving the parts. The reason I mention this is that there are several levels of simplification that could be done here. For readers that want to experiment with a simplified version of this project, here are the levels of simplification that I see. you might find even more. - Replace the stepper motors and drivers with simple continuous rotation servos. Unless you specifically need the precision of stepper mo...see more »First let me say that this project is both cool and impressive. That said it seems overkill from a hardware standpoint. I've built plenty of projects this way myself. It starts out with me having X pieces of cool hardware in front of me and me thinking "Hmmm...what cool thing can I do with _all_ this stuff?"The parts on hand drive the design rather than the usual design driving the parts. The reason I mention this is that there are several levels of simplification that could be done here. For readers that want to experiment with a simplified version of this project, here are the levels of simplification that I see. you might find even more. - Replace the stepper motors and drivers with simple continuous rotation servos. Unless you specifically need the precision of stepper motors, this saves cost, weight, and complexity. - Eliminate the Arduino and use the ESP8266 for everything. The ESP8266 can do most of what an Arduino can do and can even be programed from the Arduino IDE. Ordering a model that comes on a breakout board will let you connect all the I/O and motor control etc. - Eliminate the ESP8266 and use the phone for everything. With an Android I/O bridge like the IOIO device, you can use the phone for everything, including the motor control. This however puts the code portion of the project into a whole other difficulty level as you'll be moving to coding on Android instead of the simple to code Arduino. You might however overcome some of this difficulty by exploring alternatives like BASIC! for Android which should give you a compromise between power and simplicity. Good luck!
Nice work, thanks for sharing.
MATILDA - Missing And Trapped Individuals Location Delivery Attachment
LinkIt ONE Ultimate IoT
Casting from Autodesk Ember Printer - Design/Print (DWS550)-Ring
Porch-Swing Fire Pit
This is just what I've been looking for!!For a while now I've been trying to figure out the perfect fire-pit with seating setup. This combined with ideas I've already had is perfect!Let me share my idea.First, I'd take this project in it's entirety. Then I'd add a roof / rain-shelter as follows.Look at the frame from the top view. It's a hexagon. Now imagine building a smaller wooden hexagon shaped frame. Say 25cm in diameter. Now use some 2x4's to connect the corners of the main frame the the corners of the small frame. These 2x4 rafters will be of a length to form a 60 degree angle from vertical and support the small hexagon like the peak of a roof. The rafters will also be long enough to extend past the corners of the larger hexagon of the frame like eaves of a house. Roughly 20-30 c...see more »This is just what I've been looking for!!For a while now I've been trying to figure out the perfect fire-pit with seating setup. This combined with ideas I've already had is perfect!Let me share my idea.First, I'd take this project in it's entirety. Then I'd add a roof / rain-shelter as follows.Look at the frame from the top view. It's a hexagon. Now imagine building a smaller wooden hexagon shaped frame. Say 25cm in diameter. Now use some 2x4's to connect the corners of the main frame the the corners of the small frame. These 2x4 rafters will be of a length to form a 60 degree angle from vertical and support the small hexagon like the peak of a roof. The rafters will also be long enough to extend past the corners of the larger hexagon of the frame like eaves of a house. Roughly 20-30 cm out from the vertical 'wall' created by the frame. Next get 6 heavy duty waterproof tarps, poly or canvas, your choice as long as it's waterproof. Personally I'd choose poly as it will shed snow and water better. These tarps should be slightly wider than the width between the bottom ends of the rafters and slightly longer than the length of the rafters. Next take the tarps and lay them on the rafter/roof one at a time and draw a cut line with a marker on the bottom side on the outside edges of the rafter set they will cover. Once you've got them all marked, use that mark to mark another line a few cm outside the original line. You'll use this line to cut the tarps. Then fold over the cut edges to the original line and either stitch them or use appropriate tarp glue to glue them down. Now take these folded edges and sew them together with heavy waxed poly thread where the folded edge stops, so you're oversewing the seam of the folded edge. Then seal the edge with tarp glue on the top side and glue the two downward folded tarp edges together on the bottom side. Do all six pieces until you have what looks like a hexagonal Tepee. Get a friend(s) to help you slide the Teepee over the rafters. You now have a four season, covered fire-pit with a draft hole for the smoke to exit. If wind is an issue, you can put rings in the corners of the tarp Teepee bottoms and hooks at the ends of the rafter bottoms to hold the Teepee in place.I hope this makes sense without a drawing. It's actually pretty simple design wise and shouldn't be that hard to build.
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This is majorly impressive work. I'm going to put it into my future projects file for sure!The background info and detail level make this a pro level Instructable. Looking forward to your future projects.One small note. There's a typo in the paragraph on Sidereal time where you used "solar day" twice. "Sidereal time is different than solar time. A solar day is about 4 minutes less than a solar day."
The Pallet Bible: Finding, Inspecting, and Dismantling Pallets
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