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15Instructables2,036,103Views228CommentsMenlo Park, CAJoined June 5th, 2007
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  • TechShopJim commented on tanner_tech's instructable DIY Induction Heater4 weeks ago
    DIY Induction Heater

    Yes, I know, but I want to scale my circuit down even more than that.

    OK, series is good. That sounds like it would work. I was thinking parallel, and hadn't really considered series.The reason I don't want to use the eBay modules for this particular project is that the scale I need is actually much smaller, and I can scale this Instructables circuit much easier.Do you think making the flat "pancake" load coils with copper traces on a PCB would work? Remember, the scale of my project is very small, and only designed to heat up the target sheet steel by a few degrees for a very short amount of time.If so, which of the coil designs in the attached image would work the best for a copper PCB-based load coil?Coil #1 coils around on itself, so I'm wondering if the direction of the current in adjacent traces would cancel each other's eddy currents ...

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    OK, series is good. That sounds like it would work. I was thinking parallel, and hadn't really considered series.The reason I don't want to use the eBay modules for this particular project is that the scale I need is actually much smaller, and I can scale this Instructables circuit much easier.Do you think making the flat "pancake" load coils with copper traces on a PCB would work? Remember, the scale of my project is very small, and only designed to heat up the target sheet steel by a few degrees for a very short amount of time.If so, which of the coil designs in the attached image would work the best for a copper PCB-based load coil?Coil #1 coils around on itself, so I'm wondering if the direction of the current in adjacent traces would cancel each other's eddy currents out. The advantage of Coil #1 is that the ends can be connected into the rest of the circuit on a single-sided PCB and no jumper wires.Coil #2 is just a regular coil, and I'm pretty sure it would work the same as a wire pancake coil, but this coil would need to be made on 2-sided PCB in order to be able to connect the inside end of the coil to the rest of the circuit, or a jumper wire would be needed.What do you think?Thanks!

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  • TechShopJim commented on tanner_tech's instructable DIY Induction Heater1 month ago
    DIY Induction Heater

    Yes, I actually did buy some of those and they work well. However, I like the simplicity of this circuit.I haven't tried running multiple load coils on the eBay drivers, but I will do that.Thanks!

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  • TechShopJim commented on tanner_tech's instructable DIY Induction Heater1 month ago
    DIY Induction Heater

    Great project!Do you think multiple work coils would heat up the target metal if the work coils were connected simultaneously to the single driver circuit output?I have an application in which I need to heat up 4 spots of 16 gauge sheet metal just a little bit (heated to raise the temperature by 10 or 15 degrees F) and then stop, so the work coils would only be on for a few seconds. Alternatively, I would connect and disconnect each work coil to the driver circuit. I'm trying to avoid having to have 4 driver circuits for this project.

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  • How to Rum Infuse and Pressure-Cook Cigars

    Hi Gadget93...Well, you know, the kids are getting older now, and they want cigars, so what can you tell them?I didn't want to post a link to my preferred vendor because I don't have any affiliation with this company, nor do I get any compensation or kickbacks, but the cigars I have used for along time for this process are these specific ones: https://www.jrcigars.com/item/j-r-famous/presidents/rbpr3You get 50 big campfire-length 2-hour cigars for $46 plus whatever the shipping is. That is about a buck apiece. Yeah, it is $50, but WTF...save up and make a batch! You still need to buy rum and build your jig anyway, so you're going to be in this for $2 each by the time you're done. Still a killer deal, I think.Have fun! I need to make another batch pretty soon! For the kids, of cou...

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    Hi Gadget93...Well, you know, the kids are getting older now, and they want cigars, so what can you tell them?I didn't want to post a link to my preferred vendor because I don't have any affiliation with this company, nor do I get any compensation or kickbacks, but the cigars I have used for along time for this process are these specific ones: https://www.jrcigars.com/item/j-r-famous/presidents/rbpr3You get 50 big campfire-length 2-hour cigars for $46 plus whatever the shipping is. That is about a buck apiece. Yeah, it is $50, but WTF...save up and make a batch! You still need to buy rum and build your jig anyway, so you're going to be in this for $2 each by the time you're done. Still a killer deal, I think.Have fun! I need to make another batch pretty soon! For the kids, of course. ;)Let me ask you a question. We have a nice professional setup for making these cigars. Would it be worth it to you if we said "Send is your cigars, and we will rum-infuse them and send them back to you for $X each plus shipping both ways"?I don't think this type of service would violate ATF laws at all, because we are not providing tobacco to the customer since they already purchased it.What do you think? What pricing would make sense to you if you bought the cigars (even if you had them drop-shipped to us to save outbound shipping costs)?

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  • How to Rum Infuse and Pressure-Cook Cigars

    Hi Brent_Riggs...Hmmm. I never had any stay really dry and hard. Are they still immersed in the rum or liquor? They should be pretty saturated and wet the entire cook. I'm not sure what's going on there.My two boys brought home Cuban cigars from their boss who traveled to Cuba and purchased them, and we smoked them together. My boys were asking if I would do another batch of my cigars (I haven't done a batch in probably 5 years), so I'll have to get my set-up resurrected or redone. Maybe I'll do the proofing box as a new Instructable as some people here have requested.

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  • Foolproof ESP8266-12E Programming and Use

    Hi BelenH2...I just searched my entire system, and I don't see it anywhere! I'm not sure if I deleted it, or Eagle crashed before I could save it (which doesn't make sense), but I'm afraid I do not have it.I would suggest that you just get one of these:(http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESP8266-ESP-12-WIFI-UART-Serial-Module-and-Breakout-Board-for-Arduino-HW-/222115746610?hash=item33b7215332:g:c6gAAOSwHJhXNE2K) (Not my aution or item, by the way.)and solder a couple of 2mm pitch female 8-position headers where the ESP8266-12X goes. You can get the 2mm headers at Adafruit. That adapter board will plug into a standard breadboard.Good luck!

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  • How to Rum Infuse and Pressure-Cook Cigars

    Hi BrentR24...I don't have the proofer any more, but the fan was just to keep the air inside circulated. The fan was just blowing air around inside the box.

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  • How to Identify Red and Yellow Wires on a K Thermocouple...with a Magnet!

    Hi Terrano306...I think you and I are both correct.I just went out to my pile f thermocouples, and I did find two of them that have the ferrous wire marked with red!However, the rest of them, including the ones I used for all my projects, have the non-magnetic wire marked with red.I guess there's no standard! Maybe the devices that use the thermocouples are not standardized on polarity.Thanks!

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  • TechShopJim's instructable Foolproof ESP8266-12E Programming and Use's weekly stats: 10 months ago
    • Foolproof ESP8266-12E Programming and Use
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  • Foolproof ESP8266-12E Programming and Use

    As I mentioned in my article, I want to use bare ESP8266-12Es in my projects, so using the D1 Mini or the Witty Cloud boards would not be my choice because of size, cost, USB-to-serial problems, and the fact that I don't need 0.1 pitch spacing for my final projects.The connection to the breadboard is only used for the prototyping stage, and hence the only reason to need 0.1 inch pitch spacing. Once I determine the circuit that I want, then I use Eagle to create a circuit board and cut it on the OtherMill. In my circuit board, I just install 2 mm female headers for the ESP8266-12E to plug into.Also, I have tried some of these other boards and have had the same problem with the USB-to-serial circuits and drivers. The Adafruit Huzzah is the only one I have tried that never fails. But a...

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    As I mentioned in my article, I want to use bare ESP8266-12Es in my projects, so using the D1 Mini or the Witty Cloud boards would not be my choice because of size, cost, USB-to-serial problems, and the fact that I don't need 0.1 pitch spacing for my final projects.The connection to the breadboard is only used for the prototyping stage, and hence the only reason to need 0.1 inch pitch spacing. Once I determine the circuit that I want, then I use Eagle to create a circuit board and cut it on the OtherMill. In my circuit board, I just install 2 mm female headers for the ESP8266-12E to plug into.Also, I have tried some of these other boards and have had the same problem with the USB-to-serial circuits and drivers. The Adafruit Huzzah is the only one I have tried that never fails. But again, I ONLY use that board to program my loose ESP8266-12E units.

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  • How To Electro-Etch a Solid Metal Plaque

    Hi KentR2...Wow, that is a deep and loaded question!I'll just say that there are a LOT of people on here with strong opinions about what is dangerous and what is not, and what will utterly and completely destroy the earth if it is disposed of in certain ways. You can look at the earlier comments to see what I mean. I will let those folks reply since they are the experts (actually, they're not, but they do have opinions...which as they say, we all have opinions and something else.)I'm going to stay out of that argument because I don't know all the legal and physics issues involved, and I don't pretend to know, and I am not required to know before I'm allowed to write an Instructable, and that wasn't what I was trying to share with my Instructable.From my research, you can pour just abo...

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    Hi KentR2...Wow, that is a deep and loaded question!I'll just say that there are a LOT of people on here with strong opinions about what is dangerous and what is not, and what will utterly and completely destroy the earth if it is disposed of in certain ways. You can look at the earlier comments to see what I mean. I will let those folks reply since they are the experts (actually, they're not, but they do have opinions...which as they say, we all have opinions and something else.)I'm going to stay out of that argument because I don't know all the legal and physics issues involved, and I don't pretend to know, and I am not required to know before I'm allowed to write an Instructable, and that wasn't what I was trying to share with my Instructable.From my research, you can pour just about anything on paper towels or newspaper and let it dry completely, then discard it with other dry waste. I've never understood why it matters if there is water in the substance when you throw it in the garbage, but that's what people keep stating, so OK.Getting back to basics, I'm really glad that your etch worked! Awesome! Can you post some pictures?

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  • How To Electro-Etch a Solid Metal Plaque

    Hi Kimbeaux...Your stainless steel probably has a high iron content, so it will rust no matter what.Some stainless steel will rust, and some will not. I'm not sure which grades are which, but I'm sure you can find info on the web. There are some that will not rust.To clean it up, check out removing rust with electricity!Also, you can certainly spray the resulting etch with a coating of polyurethane, shellac, wax, or similar clear coating to prevent rust.Good luck!

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  • Sponge + Ferric Chloride Method -- Etch PCBs in One Minute!

    Hi GToal...Armour Etch is made from Barium Sulfate, Sulfuric Acid, Sodium Bifluoride, and Ammonium Bifluoride. It used to be made from hydrofluoric acid, which will etch glass very well, but that type of acid is very dangerous because it has a strong affinity for calcium and goes through your skin and after your bones to get it. Nasty stuff! (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid)You might try doing a google search for 'etch' and 'copper' and each of the chemicals above individually to see if they will etch or react with copper. I'm really not sure if any of them would be effective etchants.Consider just getting some ferric chloride PCB etch in liquid or powdered form, or making your own etchant with common pool acid (hydrochloric or "muriatic" acid) and drugsto...

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    Hi GToal...Armour Etch is made from Barium Sulfate, Sulfuric Acid, Sodium Bifluoride, and Ammonium Bifluoride. It used to be made from hydrofluoric acid, which will etch glass very well, but that type of acid is very dangerous because it has a strong affinity for calcium and goes through your skin and after your bones to get it. Nasty stuff! (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid)You might try doing a google search for 'etch' and 'copper' and each of the chemicals above individually to see if they will etch or react with copper. I'm really not sure if any of them would be effective etchants.Consider just getting some ferric chloride PCB etch in liquid or powdered form, or making your own etchant with common pool acid (hydrochloric or "muriatic" acid) and drugstore-variety 3% hydrogen peroxide. The latter actually works very well.Good luck!

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  • How To Electro-Etch a Solid Metal Plaque

    No, I'm afraid I don't. I have never had issues with aluminum.Try upping both salt concentration and power and see if it helps.You can of course just run it longer, but you run the risk of the metal getting eaten out from under the mask (this is called "undercutting" when you are etching with electricity or chemicals).

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  • How To Electro-Etch a Solid Metal Plaque

    Hi CVC...You can use this technique with all metals including aluminum, using the same salt solution and power.One of the first projects I did with this was the embossing die I made that we used to put a raised TechSHop logo on the very first gift certificates we sold. Those are probably collector's items now...we have been open 10 years as of this Saturday Oct 1, 2016! (Be sure to come to our open house party if you read this message in time and you live near any of our 9 TechShop locations in the US!)Anyway... I suspect that your aluminum is either: o Anodized o Coated with plastic or lacquer or some coating o Heavily oxidizedAll these conditions will make the surface non-conductive, and electricity will not be able to pass through the metal's surface.The best way to check thi...

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    Hi CVC...You can use this technique with all metals including aluminum, using the same salt solution and power.One of the first projects I did with this was the embossing die I made that we used to put a raised TechSHop logo on the very first gift certificates we sold. Those are probably collector's items now...we have been open 10 years as of this Saturday Oct 1, 2016! (Be sure to come to our open house party if you read this message in time and you live near any of our 9 TechShop locations in the US!)Anyway... I suspect that your aluminum is either: o Anodized o Coated with plastic or lacquer or some coating o Heavily oxidizedAll these conditions will make the surface non-conductive, and electricity will not be able to pass through the metal's surface.The best way to check this is to see if the surface you are trying to etch is electrically conductive. You could do this with a digital multimeter, a battery and a lightbulb or LED, or even just take your two electroetching power leads and touch both of them quickly on the surface of the aluminum and see if you get a little spark.Anodized aluminum is actually a layer of aluminum oxide formed on the surface of the aluminum, then treated usually with an acid and other chemicals to harden it, and then usually dyed with an aniline dye.If you find that the aluminum is not anodized or coated, it could be just really oxidized, which will make it non-conductive. Aluminum is very hungry for oxygen, and bare clean aluminum surfaces will oxidize very rapidly. If you think this is the problem, try sanding the surface so it is bright shiny aluminum and try your etch on that.Good luck! Please post here and let us know what happens.

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  • How To Electro-Etch a Solid Metal Plaque

    Hi Cameron G17...Yes, I'm "positive" about that' ;)Actually, I did a demo one time and hooked it up backwards, and all the stencil elements that I had carefully cut out of vinyl sheet instantly popped off and floated into the salt water when I connected the power.I'm not sure what the problem is with your setup. Does the battery have sufficient charge (check the volts, should be close to 14v)?Also, check the polarity with your digital multimeter to be sure the car battery isn't charged backwards or the wire colors are switched or something weird like that.Maybe try a different piece of metal for the sacrificial metal.Let me know what happens...thanks!

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