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Just curious,but what's the point of using Tinkercad as opposed to Illustrator or CorelDraw? Designing the depth makes no difference as you are just cutting to whatever the thickness of your material,and can't cut bevels on a laser. I could see if you are 3D printing where that would come into play. Anyway,it came out nice.Thanks for sharing your project.
I live right down the street from Harper College,literally 3 minutes away. Maybe I should stop by and check out that gallery in person.
I use Romark quite often,and my main issue is that the engraving is never 100% smooth. You can always see striations in the engraved area,and the bigger the area,the more visible it is. Never thought about making it dimensional though. That's a great idea and a really cool effect.
I've made quite a few desk nameplates and I never thought about making the tabs one the legs that way. I'll have to try it like that next time. looks like it would make fitment easier.One thing I personally do though is to engrave reverse,second surface so that you are looking though the acrylic to read the name. I just like the way that looks better.
How to cook the perfect double cheeseburger? Add bacon. The end.Just kidding (but not really),it does look delicious.
Point # 4 says "High performance, 2-mil, white, non-PVC vinyl film with a luster finish". Don't know where you see it says it's not vinyl. I have a roll of it here at work,and it's kinda tricky to print on,but it's completely safe.It's not the vinyl per se that's poisonous. It's the chlorine in the PVC. Not only is it poisonous to people,but it's also corrosive to your laser cutter. So no matter the ventilation system you have,you should NEVER laser cut anything containing PVC,i.e.,most pressure sensitive vinyls and Sintra.
This looks awesome. I would love to make one of these. Is there any way you could save it as an AI file?
Hey,tried to open the cdr file with two different versions of Coreldraw and it won't open.
I do a lot of engraving on acrylic on a Trotec Speedy 300,and I use a different method. I don't even bother taking out the backgrounds(personal choice). My first step it to convert to grayscale,then I go 300 for the resolution,then I go to adjustments>brightness/contrast and usually make both of those 25,but this can change depending on the picture.Next I go filter>sharpen>unsharp mask. I usually go amount-500%, radius-3,and keep threshold at 0.I don't even convert to bitmap,I just save it as one. The laser settings are definitely going to depend on your laser,and from what I understand,that goes for each individual laser even if they are the exact same model.I'll have to get some wood and try out your settings. Thanks.
We have a the Speedy 300(I'm actually sitting right next to it as I type) and I know that it was only about $24K according to my bosses.The only thing is that I wouldn't be able to fit a full sized kitana into my machine.