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  • TheRadMan made the instructable OLED I2c Display With Arduino2 weeks ago
    OLED I2c Display With Arduino

    Jean0x7BE: I verified your ible. Good writing and nice touch on I2C scan steps. JohnGeneral Information GM009605 China OLED [White] display counterfeits have 4 pins across top, GND and VDD and SCK and SDA. Definitely I2C bus. Shipped configured for 3C address. Your images show board with VCC then GND and this board is Adafruit legit. But mine was $4 CDN and still works (not sure for how long).At 3.28 Vdc, peak current was 17.6mA (58mW) with all pixels ON.At 5.05 Vdc, bench test P.S. reads peak 12.3mA (62mW) all pixels ON.Tip: I found text mono-inversion command [OLED.setTextColor(BLACK,WHITE);]. Caution ; many China supplied pin jumpers are/become/ *open* because pin plugs are bad/cheap/inferior and the wire male-male jumper is *open circuit*. Advice: Check all male jumpers after use; ...

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    Jean0x7BE: I verified your ible. Good writing and nice touch on I2C scan steps. JohnGeneral Information GM009605 China OLED [White] display counterfeits have 4 pins across top, GND and VDD and SCK and SDA. Definitely I2C bus. Shipped configured for 3C address. Your images show board with VCC then GND and this board is Adafruit legit. But mine was $4 CDN and still works (not sure for how long).At 3.28 Vdc, peak current was 17.6mA (58mW) with all pixels ON.At 5.05 Vdc, bench test P.S. reads peak 12.3mA (62mW) all pixels ON.Tip: I found text mono-inversion command [OLED.setTextColor(BLACK,WHITE);]. Caution ; many China supplied pin jumpers are/become/ *open* because pin plugs are bad/cheap/inferior and the wire male-male jumper is *open circuit*. Advice: Check all male jumpers after use; pull up and out of breadboard carefully. (I make my own DuPont females and Pin male jumpers for rapid develo). Many of these comments could be attributed to open jumpers; check by swapping your jumpers. If cables are *disturbed/open* during operations, then user must hit RESET button once; the OLED does NOT recover; it just goes dark until the board+program is reset. I think Clock and Data are synchronized but disturbed if disconnected while Ardy/Wemos/STM32 are still spitting out the I2C 'stream'.WEMOS D1 MINI (ESP8266) with IoT : same deal as this Instructible, pins are SCK (clocking) D1 pin, SDA (data) D2 pin, powered by 3.3V. Bright display of 20chars x 4lines with under 20mA of draw for battery operation. \cool/More advice: ADAFRUIT_SSD_1306.H has to be edit-modded for size 128x64; see comments within files and everywhere on Inet.Ardy IDE 1.8.4 works OK with both SSD_1306 library .H (header) and .CPP (C-preprocessor) files, as well as GFX library. Let me know if you find a *command* description for OLED. library commands in a handy PDF reference on the Inet. Please and thanks.

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  • TheRadMan commented on JorBi's instructable Arduino Based Pulse Induction Detector1 month ago
    Arduino Based Pulse Induction Detector

    JorBi;You explanations have good clear detail, similar to your TTL IC tester post. The coil winding seems almost too simple. 18 Turns at 200mm coil-diameter.20cm diameter is 629mm wire length per turn and 11.4m overall length.I assume you had used a solid 22 AWG (0.26mm) or 24 AWG (0.20mm) diameters. These Copper wire diameters and sizes are plentiful here in North America in discarded CAT-3, especially in 15 meter / 50 foot lengths. Would alloy metal wire have a different detection result?This is a very good minimal Pulse Induction Detector design, leveraging a V3 NANO and two very common 540 MosFETs to keep the overall cost very low.Your design layout with soldered 'point-to-point' perforated board pad-PCB construction also helps the timing stability by keeping distributed capacity l...

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    JorBi;You explanations have good clear detail, similar to your TTL IC tester post. The coil winding seems almost too simple. 18 Turns at 200mm coil-diameter.20cm diameter is 629mm wire length per turn and 11.4m overall length.I assume you had used a solid 22 AWG (0.26mm) or 24 AWG (0.20mm) diameters. These Copper wire diameters and sizes are plentiful here in North America in discarded CAT-3, especially in 15 meter / 50 foot lengths. Would alloy metal wire have a different detection result?This is a very good minimal Pulse Induction Detector design, leveraging a V3 NANO and two very common 540 MosFETs to keep the overall cost very low.Your design layout with soldered 'point-to-point' perforated board pad-PCB construction also helps the timing stability by keeping distributed capacity low. Building this on breadboard with long dupont wires would not have the same clean result.

    example of costs;at the local College bookstore/parts shop, Students can buy {clone} V3 NANO at $7.50 Cdn, and IFR540 at qty 5 for $2.50 Cdn. That same perf-board is $1.25, and the diode, resistors are pennies. The addendum lists the 1602 on I2C version which is $9 now on sale, so the whole thing tops out at under $25 or so.John

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  • TheRadMan commented on Left-field Designs's instructable Ethernet Tap1 month ago
    Ethernet Tap

    About 4 years ago, this same design appeared as idea at a Network Security Conference, and then as a kickstarter attempt, and then faded away. I built several iterations of these TAPs, but the most successful unit was my last. It had two USB NICs that could simultaneously go to promiscuous mode for WireShark (Ethereal:farther back). I then discovered an active solution that involved open source router port mirroring and resolved my Gigabit interface requirement and now I am looking for something inexpensive, that does not drop packets at Gigabit wire packet speed.The difference in this instructable posting is the finish uses the keystone-like modules in a wall socket enclosure which is much prettier than my early tool, and even the 'ThrowingStar' I saw at the Network Security Conference...

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    About 4 years ago, this same design appeared as idea at a Network Security Conference, and then as a kickstarter attempt, and then faded away. I built several iterations of these TAPs, but the most successful unit was my last. It had two USB NICs that could simultaneously go to promiscuous mode for WireShark (Ethereal:farther back). I then discovered an active solution that involved open source router port mirroring and resolved my Gigabit interface requirement and now I am looking for something inexpensive, that does not drop packets at Gigabit wire packet speed.The difference in this instructable posting is the finish uses the keystone-like modules in a wall socket enclosure which is much prettier than my early tool, and even the 'ThrowingStar' I saw at the Network Security Conference. This project has a neat and clean appearance.

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  • TheRadMan commented on Honus's instructable Convert Old Cordless Tools to Lithium Power3 months ago
    Convert Old Cordless Tools to Lithium Power

    Weight reduction. Another reason to convert NiCad or NiMH to Li-Ion. More power for less weight. And costs down to 25% of OEM replacement.I also add a Balanced Monitor charger circuit to my tool(s) so the charge terminates at 4.2V . In one tool, I wired the multi-connector for monitor/charger externally, and disconnect the Bal/Mon during operation. I think your use of shrinkwrapped Li-Ion assembly is a good yip; I used the 18650 holders but (rough) tool use caused the cells to jump out of the holders, breaking contact after a mild drop. On my roto tool (dremel clone) , I think Li-Ion actually has more torque at the start.

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  • Build Your Own Surveillance Camera With Raspberry Pi and Motioneye

    I have built two of these from RPi-2 with main cam as the 5MP RPiCam and then a 8MPNoIRCAM because I need *license plates* resolution in a short driveway, and then added USB cam to rear door. Do you have any tricks to increase distance of USB cams beyond the standard 1-3meters? I also try USB-RG45 inter-conversion but the cam distance only extends perhaps 5meters, mostly around the problem of +5Vdc supply currents ~250mA and up. It gets costly to use multiple RPi's and MotionEye setups. I concentrate the RTSP streams with one iSpy64 server and that server goes out to secure internet, also handling motion capture centrally. This post is very good write up, and includes detail not found on the ccrisan original sites and forums.

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  • Eco Friendly Metal Detector - Arduino

    And I forgot to type "Very well done, indeed.". John

    Very Well done, indeed.

    (1) The original Q was " What was the total cost of the Bill of Materials?" and I would like to know , even an estimate, for comparison to a PI commercial solution. (2) What is the sweeper head's performance under water, say just a few inches along a sandy shoreline?

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  • Telescope motorization (focus + orientation)

    I see the uploaded picture did not get throughso here is a linkhttp://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAwMVgxMDAx/z/yB4AAOSwG...the item looks like a cylinder when in fact, it is a machined spring.many thanks to you for inspiration on Buki parts. This eliminates "lash" and slip effects I get with printer tires(tyres) John

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  • Telescope motorization (focus + orientation)

    Thanks Hugo ; These are the pictures I needed! the part you made is a "set-screw" lock. And I will likely do exactly same, I did finc local Hobby shop that serves the ?Drone? community here and they have a commercial "coupler" which is used in 3D printing steppers to fix to the threaded linear shaft. The item looks like this but its just right diameter for my motor shaft and can be drilled for the larger size of the Microscope (or telescope). In fact, the owner has a few on order that connect 2.5mm to 3.4mm on the other side...I upload an image; The Shop sells the item at $10 in store but I found the same item on Ebay Canada for $6. You can see four "set screws" which use Allen Key locking method... If the two items do not work, I will use your method, usin...

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    Thanks Hugo ; These are the pictures I needed! the part you made is a "set-screw" lock. And I will likely do exactly same, I did finc local Hobby shop that serves the ?Drone? community here and they have a commercial "coupler" which is used in 3D printing steppers to fix to the threaded linear shaft. The item looks like this but its just right diameter for my motor shaft and can be drilled for the larger size of the Microscope (or telescope). In fact, the owner has a few on order that connect 2.5mm to 3.4mm on the other side...I upload an image; The Shop sells the item at $10 in store but I found the same item on Ebay Canada for $6. You can see four "set screws" which use Allen Key locking method... If the two items do not work, I will use your method, using Keyhole drill to make round. The same shop also sells that Buki gear set...many thanks for reply. John in Canada

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  • DIY Bench Power Supply With Old Computer SMPS

    Steve;Please remind viewers to use only UL listed, classed Power Supply modules. I did not see UL symbol/stickers but I see the obvious safety label on one side. I noticed that the remote enable is used, by pulling the PS_ON# pin to ground, but the power supply still operates internally, in a sleep mode.Even when an ATX is disconnected from the IEC310 power cable, the PCB switch-mode capacitors are still somewhat charged, and can painfully remind any fingers of that (residual) charge.Always check that the IEC310 receptacle has a low resistance connection to the case, and that the binding post rear insulators are used to isolate the high current DC connections. Perhaps , ring-spade crimp terminals should be used at the rear of the binding posts, but I am encouraged to see many of your pr...

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    Steve;Please remind viewers to use only UL listed, classed Power Supply modules. I did not see UL symbol/stickers but I see the obvious safety label on one side. I noticed that the remote enable is used, by pulling the PS_ON# pin to ground, but the power supply still operates internally, in a sleep mode.Even when an ATX is disconnected from the IEC310 power cable, the PCB switch-mode capacitors are still somewhat charged, and can painfully remind any fingers of that (residual) charge.Always check that the IEC310 receptacle has a low resistance connection to the case, and that the binding post rear insulators are used to isolate the high current DC connections. Perhaps , ring-spade crimp terminals should be used at the rear of the binding posts, but I am encouraged to see many of your preparations and treatments, in your pictures, actually enhance safety and isolation/insulation. Perhaps, you have formal Electronics training.Modification of ATX modules is the most affordable way to create a test benchpower supply. If there is an unintentional short in the 3.3V, 5V or 12V D.C. rail(s) we hope that the feedback monitor shuts down that ATX PS per the conventional wisdom , by disabling the switchmode drive.[ CET in 1979]

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  • Telescope motorization (focus + orientation)

    Hugo, thank you for sharing this useful instructable. John R.I have a similar project for servo focus control using same 28YBJ-48 motor and re-use of printer-paper-pickup tire(s) as the mechanical coupling to the focal knob (IN / OUT) , that will not 'jiggle' the target objective every time it is rotated.I am interested in your mechanical geared tooth coupling method. Can you share some detail on sourcing parts, and coupling methods to the 28YBJ shaft other than hot melt ThermoPlastic?Do you find that there is 'lashing play' within the gears and if so, is there a pronounced effect on movement?I can share that the tires have varying grip at different room temperatures,a typical focus 'race' has a latency or 'lag' in the linear movement.USB microscope images are processed with a large no...

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    Hugo, thank you for sharing this useful instructable. John R.I have a similar project for servo focus control using same 28YBJ-48 motor and re-use of printer-paper-pickup tire(s) as the mechanical coupling to the focal knob (IN / OUT) , that will not 'jiggle' the target objective every time it is rotated.I am interested in your mechanical geared tooth coupling method. Can you share some detail on sourcing parts, and coupling methods to the 28YBJ shaft other than hot melt ThermoPlastic?Do you find that there is 'lashing play' within the gears and if so, is there a pronounced effect on movement?I can share that the tires have varying grip at different room temperatures,a typical focus 'race' has a latency or 'lag' in the linear movement.USB microscope images are processed with a large noticeable delay,which is mildly annoying as the stepper motor is stepped IN and OUT to inspectElectronic PCB and component failures at different focus settings.My next project uses another Arduino-Stepper pair to move the USB microscope (stand base) on X and Y.I observe there is not enough power (500mA) in one (PC) USB port to power *two* of the 28YBJ types under 'load', so the 'base' movementwill have ACDC external power and likely at 12Vdc. I sketched an Ardi C++ that accepts two momentary keys (IN and OUT), a rotary potentiometer for step delay(speed) , driving off the shelf ULN2003 stepper driver board(s). That Ardi program also controls the IN OUT over 9600Baud serial remotely,using 'i' and 'o' characters and I eliminated the pot to adjust the speed remotely.USB Microscope prices are decreasing to the point where every QA inspectionbench should have this tool.I am looking for mechanical coupling advice.I also have round electronics control knob hardware from the 80's that have two allen set-screws but the shaft is loose and off center when affix to 28YBJ shaft.best regardsJohn

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  • TheRadMan commented on seamster's instructable Tennis Balls in a Bottle (How-to!)1 year ago
    Tennis Balls in a Bottle (How-to!)

    Stress ball squeeze; think angry thoughts...

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  • TheRadMan followed danielknox1 year ago