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The vast majority so far has been wood: hardwoods and softwoods, seasoned or green. I did some experiments on tagua nuts (vegetable ivory), and a chunk of beef bone I filched from my ex's dog.I have a banksia pod that was given to me a long time ago. Every so often I pick it up, shake my head, and put it down again. It's time will come, though. 'Real Soon Now' I will start some experiments with acrylic blanks, and I'm making some contacts with suppliers of fordite.
I'm thinking I will try this at some, but as I have a large supply of quarter-usletter paper, I will try making it flat in a press. Yes, the original cellulose has been broken, but like particleboard, chipboard, flakeboard and other manufactured materials, the product will be mostly glue. Since my intention is to make turning stock, I will probably use a water resistant glue, so the final object can be washed, if not immersed.
sgbotsford has anticipated my questions. I've found that SiC wet or dry abrasive papers on glass, MDF or HDF works fine; once the sheet is wet it doesn't move around, unless one is too exuberant and lifts an edge. This technique also works for fettling planes, getting a wickedsharp edge on various tools (plane blades, chisels and such) and flattening oil and water stones.It's also less messy, and I can use tools and materials I already have, rather than invest in new stuff, which has to be stored and kept track of ...I haven't done flame polishing on wine bottles and such; just Pyrex, Kimax and random flint glass. It would be nice to know if there are any additional risks to that
A really nice idea, beautifully done. A question: would a clear spray lacquer or similar solve the problem of spot tarnishing from fingerprints? If you considered it but decided against it, what were the reasons?
Some very good ideas here. I might 'steal' the blast shield/dust collector and pegboard ones next time I need a sacrificial top for my RAS.Pegboard is pretty good in terms of consistency of the centers of the holes for linear work. although for really precise work I'd worry about wear in the holes and consistency of the pegs.For angles, a lot depends on the kind of work you do. Sometimes I make up segmented rings for making into bowls. For example, 9 segments times 1/2 degree off is 4 1/2 degrees, which is more than enough to keep the ring from closing.
This is a fine idea; photographers have been filtering their lights since they became available. But:This is a fire hazard. Compact Fluorescents run cooler than incandescents, but still generate enough heat to be uncomfortable to touch (45-50degrees C) and that will, given enough time, ignite the towel/filter.Do not try this with halogen lamps, even with infrared absorbing glass.
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