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You could use one of these socket to plug converters (about $4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F71O70/ref=mp_s_a_1_5Then plug your power supply into it and run your led strips from that. With the design shown here, you could place the power supply on top of the mounting boards. Hope this helps.
3 Axis CNC Milling Machine
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Another good source for front-surface mirrors is surplusshed.com. Item numbers L3129D or L14331 or L14359 would work. They also carry items like beamsplitters, prisms, and various lenses that might make for some interesting variations.
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Thanks for the even-handed reply. I really wasn't trying to be negative. It's just that most people don't realize how robust automobile electronics are and how rigorously they're tested. We sort of take it for granted because most of the time they work, but it's because they've been subject to incredible stress testing and legal liability tests over the years, and only the best-engineered designs have survived.The specs on vehicle electronics are amazing considering they're mass-produced. A typical consumer electronic part like an Arduino just isn't in the same league.
It sounds like the telescope this is meant for has an EQ mount, so only one axis needs to be driven (and that at a constant speed to counteract earth's rotation). For a Dob you have two options: an equatorial platform, which tilts the scope to match your latitude. This lets you drive a single motor just like a traditional EQ mount. The other option is driving both axes, simulating polar motion by varying the horizontal and vertical axes at varying rates depending on where the scope is pointed.The first option involves more elaborate hardware but simpler software; the second option vice-versa.
Simple, Low Cost and Accurate Stepper Motor Driver
It's not just a matter of getting wet. It's heat, cold, relentless vibration, and power spikes as the car is started. All of the connections to all of its components needs to be solid and protected as well as the main board. And if you're using it as a lane-change sensor it (and the programming) needs to be dead-on reliable. The standards for automotive electronics reliability are orders of magnitude higher than for hobby electronics like the Arduino. I'd be surprised if an Arduino board lasts more than a few weeks under average automotive conditions, no matter what you do to try to protect it.
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Thick glass (called "float glass") is polished and flattened during manufacture so that the surface is VERY flat, and it's thick enough that it doesn't flex. It's worth spending $8 or so for a piece of this from a glass shop. I've been using mine for years.
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A good source for these kinds of linear motion parts and pieces is banggood.com. They're known for low prices and international shipping to anywhere. They have straight rods from 4mm to 16mm diameter and 100mm to 1000mm lengths. Also acme lead screws in the same range of lengths, bearings, and brass nuts of various sorts.
Great work, excellent! As a next step you could print a holder for a laser unit and then you'd have an easily convertible CNC router/laser engraver/cutter. Banggood.com has self-contained engraving and cutting lasers up to 5W for a very reasonable price (in fact the 2.5W model happens to be on sale right now for $68). There's a holder already designed in Thingiverse for Prusa and Ultimaker printers.Anyway, nicely done!
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You reverse the wire pairs when you attach them to the stepper driver. If the 4 wire pairs are colored red-black and green-white you wire one asRB GW and the other asGW RB. That way they'll be in sync but run in opposite directions.
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Surplusshed.com is a great source for small lenses of all types and small front-surface mirrors. This is hard-to-find stuff in small quantities, but they seem to have everything available in quantities of 1. A lot of it is really high-quality surplus from science and lab companies like Edmund and Jaegers. They also have a lens finder function where you plug in focal length, diameter, etc.
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It can export .stl files to Cura and the like, and g-code files. Not sure about the laser cutter question, but it's a VERY capable program; I'd be surprised if that function isn't also built in. Fusion definitely has a learning curve, but once you key into the mindset of the designers it suddenly makes sense and becomes much easier.
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Nice project, but you skipped one important step: you hardened the blade (which makes the blade very hard but brittle) but you didn't temper it to make it less brittle. After the hardening and quenching, you need to heat the blade slowly to about 400 degrees and hold it there for a while, then let it air-cool slowly. That will prevent the blade from shattering the first time you try chopping a log with it.
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Very cool project!Just a couple quick things questions: I have a 24v 30A PSU: will I run into problems with that or do I need to step it down to 12V?Also, I have a 600W stx PSU from a computer. Will the 12V supply from that be sufficient, or does it need to be a switching supply as shown?Thanks!
I second the recommendation for Fusion360. Theres a bit of a learning curve getting started but it's VERY capable and it will generate Gcode (as well as interface with other gcode-generating programs like Cura.)I'm about 80% done with a CNC router build, designed along the same lines as yours but with lots of details different of course. I chose to go the Arduino route for controlling the stepper drivers, because it's dedicated to reading and producing high-frequency pulsed signals and not much else. There's no Windows stuff to contend with and the code is sent by a simple USB connection. But the interface is definitely not as nice as Mach3.Anyway this is a great project for a serious hobbyist--lots to learn but that's the fun part, right?
For your signal voltage problems you're probably going to need to switch to a desktop computer with a separate parallel port card that's rated for 5V. Laptops were notorious for having unreliable parallel port signals before everything switched over to USB. The good news is there are piles of outdated surplus desktop machines around. Many won't have a parallel port but it's a cheap & easy add-on.
That's a Prusa A8. There are a zillion kits available for about $250. Nice printer after it's correctly adjusted, with an active user community and a bunch of printable upgrades available.For a few bucks more consider the A6 model--basically the same mechanicals, but a bit bigger print area and nicer interface.
Quick tip--it took me a while to figure this out: There's a micro-SD card included with the kit; the assembly instructions are on the card in video and pdf format. Don't skip the first step: connecting the motors, sensors, LCD,and power supply to the controller and running tests BEFORE assembly. Have fun!
I'll echo the other commenters--that's way too much power to apply to the Vin of the Arduino. I'd suggest running a buck converter or similar from the motor power to the Arduino Vin and ground. You can get a 12v buck converter from EBay for just a couple dollars. I bought a 10-pack because I end up using one for almost every project.
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You can use a small butane torch, or a culinary torch. Anything that will heat the metal to cherry red will anneal the iron. Even a small pile of charcoal heated up with a hair dryer will do it.
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You can, but you need to identify the two center tap wires and leave them disconnected. Start by using a meter to measure the resistance between all the wire pairs. You'll see that there are 2 sets of 3 wires that are connected. Now for each set of 3 wires, you'll see one pair that has 1/2 the resistance. Those are the wires that you connect to the motor driver. The pair that has higher resistance will be the center tap wires, just leave them disconnected. That way you can use a unipolar driver to drive a bipolar motor.
The filament is pushed through the extruder by another stepper motor (E0 in the wiring diagram). It can be smaller than the drive motors.
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Most of it's available on Ebay; but try Banggood.com as well. They have really good deals on linear motion components, laser diodes, and power supplies.
Low Cost Reliable & Powerfull Laser Engraver
Great Instructable and fantastic out-of-the-box thinking. I've had one of these saws gathering dust in my shop for years.I thought this would be of interest to you, now that you have a 3D router. It's a poster showing digital wood joinery that wasn't really possible until the advent of CNC controls. The link below that is where you can download the gcode to produce the joints.I just think it's pretty cool when a technology that hasn't changed much in a couple thousand years gets a reset because of technology.https://www.flickr.com/photos/satiredun/1586830842...http://www.flexiblestream.org/project/50-digital-w...
It shouldn't affect the speed at all, only the torque. Speed is only a function of the step frequency. If the torque drops too low the motor will start to skip. But these particular stepper controllers seem to be really efficient; they do really well at low current and 12v.
Excellent! I've tried a dozen different stepper controllers in making a CNC mill, and the ones you chose are by far the best for the money--they outperform some costing 10x as much. Your little alteration of the enable pin was very clever.Just one suggestion: since you don't need tons of torque for your purposes, you might want to try running at 12v and/or dialing back the current. Judging from the sounds your motors are making, they're being overdriven. Cutting back the power could make them run quieter and cooler (always an advantage around an open-tube telescope). Anyway, beautiful job!
Motorise your own telescope.
If you're looking for an epoxy that cures rock-hard, try JB Weld.
End Stop / Limit Switch Problems
Nice project! I'm just curious about these two lines: x = map(dacValue, 0, 1023, 0, 65000); x = round(x/650.0); // To obtain a range from 0 to 100Why not just use a single map function with 0 to 100 as the target values?x = map(dacValue, 0, 1023, 0, 100);Thanks!
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