• Date JoinedDec 29, 2006
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KentsOkay7 years ago
Dude, where have you BEEN???
Vendigroth (author)  KentsOkay7 years ago
About the place, really.
are you still about the place?
Oh... your not dead... just haven't posted in ages...
Pat Sowers9 years ago
I have been using files and grinders to make knives for about 3 years and i rock at sharpening. ( i have shaves with my knives before) I do have some ?’s for you; 1. When I am hammering the steel (i like to use a 5-20 lb. hammer) what is the best way to stretch a billet into a knife shape wile keeping a uniform thickness? 2. I have heard that using clay on the font edge of a sword/knife it a curve when you quench it. Is that true? That would be fun to try. 3. What is the best hammer to use for forging? 4. What is the best temp to quench steel so it becomes stronger? 5. When should you use flux? 6. How do you think I can convince my parents to let me get a forge? This is all I can think of for now but I will be back with more ?'s. Thank you.
You asked about putting clay on a sword to give it curve. This actually is somewhat true. If you allow the leading edge to cool faster than the opposite side, it'll curve a bit away from that edge. This is part of the reason why a Japanese katana is curved (although they are made that way by design prior to quenching)
yup. i have been forgeing them lately (well trying to get better at it)
were did the random symbols come from in my post?
Vendigroth (author)  Pat Sowers9 years ago
dunno, they just turn up.....
Vendigroth (author)  Pat Sowers9 years ago
1: If you're workn form a billet, heat it up, or just the working area, and hit it down one side, then turn it through 90 degrees and hit it down the side again, turn, hit, etc. repeat and reheat as necessary. You can also draw out a billet by putting grooves into it with a fuller or hammer perpendicular to the direction you want it to stretch in. 2: not sure, sounds complicated. 3: i use a 2 pound hammer mostly, but then again, i'm not really muscly. A good hammer is one that gives you control and force. control's most important. Also, good forging hammers are "crowned", in that they have the angular transition between face and flat ground out smooth-ish, so they don't leave big square-ish dents in the steel. 4: When steel's ready to be hardened, it becomes non-magnetic. magnets don't stick to it. thisd is usually an orange-ish colour, but depending on lighting, etc, colour isn't a good guide at all. Use the magnet test, it's the best way 5: Flux is used in forge welding (and other jobs) to get the crap out of a weld. once the billet of steel's been put together and heated to cherry red, flux (borax that's been roasted in the oven to get the chemically-bonded-in water out of it, so it doesn't boil off the steel) is sprinkled on, then the billet's heated up and the welding operastion continues. 6: heh, i wanted to say that i couldn't help you with this, but now i think about it, maybe i can. you might like to point out the following ideas: SMALL coal forges typically contain no more active fuel than a common barbeque, and a small forge is all you're going to need, to get started, really. (i used that argument, it worked well.) The little gas forge i made, when properly secured, is practically impossible to knock over, and gives good heats, as long as you give it enough time to heat the steel. like any piece of machinery, forges need careful handling, but they're no more dangerous than your grinder, really, if you just pay attention to what you're doing.
ok thans for the help if i have more ?'s i will come back.
Keith-Kid8 years ago
Creepy Avatar Guy! You're back!
Vendigroth (author)  Keith-Kid8 years ago