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No, I don't think so. I made all my calculations based on 120V. Your voltage will change everything, I think.
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yes, to all of your questions. Just don't stretch it out too much when separating your coils or it will be too long. My outside diameter was a little bigger when I ended up making my own coil because my mandrel was 1/4" and the width of the wire pushed it up slightly over 3/8". I just filed my channels down a little and it fit fine. I think the last element I made was about 18 inches. You don't want to go much shorter than that or the kiln will heat up too fast with too little resistance. Please let me know if this helps and how your final kiln turns out!
Mine is a 15 Amp circuit so I tried to keep mine as short as possible without it heating up too much. Here's a website if you want more technical info. http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/winding-kanthal-a1-element-for-an.html?m=1
There are formulas out there Dan. More by experience and trial and error though. My first element was too short and heated up too fast. I had to change the design of my top loader because of that.
Electric Kiln -- Top Loader View Instructable »
I updated the instructions to include an easier way to do this. There are brass connectors you can buy from some of the ceramics suppliers. I just used some steel bolts with two nuts to separate the wires.
No, I don't think so. I have since done some asking around. What you really want is either a PID controller (read some of the comments above) or an Infinity Control Switch (ICS kiln controller). Sundanceglass.com has one for sale.
if your coil is too short it will heat up too fast and the temperature will be hard to control. It may just heat up and burn out the coil. You definitely don't want to plug it directly into a wall outlet. Get a controller.
Probably not. I'm not an electrician, but I have mine in the garage and I can barely run anything else on that circuit without tripping the breaker. On dedicated circuit you will have enough heat to melt aluminum though.
Mine is a K-type thermocouple. I don't have a PID controller on mine, so i cant help you there. Look at some of the links in tge comments. Others have put pid controllers on theirs.
Because it is insulated with Kaowool. Lol
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Cool! Nice work. Glad you found it helpful!
Hi, I'm not really sure the gauge on the door. I'm guessing about 22 or 24. It doesn't really matter as long as you can bend it with your fingers. Too thick and you will need a metal brake to form it.Hope that helps.
It's not really a source. It's a variable control. You plug it into a socket. It has no markings on it. I got it from an old table top kiln I bought off eBay.
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