Woodclaver

Oh, I see. But appears to only allow for small adjustment in final tightening. How does it accomplish gross adjustment? Do you cut the pipe that the threaded portion inserts into?

Hi:What's that?

HF makes an eight dollar kit of security fasteners that comes with a "Y" shapped thing with the quarter inch hex shaft, looks like it is supposed to drive exactly this sort of thing. But on the first bolt while using it, the "Y" portion snapped off the shaft. I hadn't bothered to mention that because it didn't work.I didn't know when I arranged to make the couch that it was gonna have the bolts. If he orders another fifteen hundred dollar couch from IKEA, I will ask him to order one extra set of the bolts.(Actually, the socket idea wouldn't work on the wings, as they were fairly rounded, and about 1 1/4" tip to tip, unless you were willing to sacrifice a socket by cutting slots across it a half inch deep or so in a half inch or so socket.)I do carry a screw eye ...see more »HF makes an eight dollar kit of security fasteners that comes with a "Y" shapped thing with the quarter inch hex shaft, looks like it is supposed to drive exactly this sort of thing. But on the first bolt while using it, the "Y" portion snapped off the shaft. I hadn't bothered to mention that because it didn't work.I didn't know when I arranged to make the couch that it was gonna have the bolts. If he orders another fifteen hundred dollar couch from IKEA, I will ask him to order one extra set of the bolts.(Actually, the socket idea wouldn't work on the wings, as they were fairly rounded, and about 1 1/4" tip to tip, unless you were willing to sacrifice a socket by cutting slots across it a half inch deep or so in a half inch or so socket.)I do carry a screw eye in my kit which was torqued out of shape a bit for driving other screw eyes. Was trying to figure out at first how to use it on these. Honestly, IKEA wasted a bunch of money on the bolts, they could have used a simple hex head bolt to do the same job, for probably a third the price. These Wing head bolts were not the cheapest way to make the kit.

Thank You so much. She can walk now a bit, and make it to the ceramic bed pan.

What a fantastic idea. Awhile back while viewing the Colunbia I purchased a metal kit of the shuttle to assemble, very similar in construction.How do we obtain one of your cards?Do you cut this sort of thing on order?What does it cost to make the card?And I was wondering, since LASER is actually an acronym, should it not be all caps?

As a General Contractor/Handyman/Tinker I could not begin to list the times a customer has asked if I could open a cabinet or car or something with a pick. I normally make them of SS butter knives, but the handles do wind up a bit heavy.This sounds like a great, lightweight, easy to carry, method. And note, the TSA does NOT allow key knives, or any sharp object, on you. I have even received objections to my P-38 Military style can opener!! (Like I was gonna threaten to open the side of a plane with a P-38!)And, be nice. There isn't much to be had our of insulting fellow contributors here.

I do have a big question here.Since you are generating heat, and melting solder at somewhere between 450 and 800 degrees, how is that cold?

I have read most of this article, but running out of time to go to sleep.I love the idea! Have been wanting to make such for years. I think I sort of played with this idea 50 years ago as a teen with a train transformer and a pencil sharpener sharpened carbon rod from the middle of a D cell battery. I used a Crocodile clamp on the other lead. It never had enough power to operate to solder, but I barely managed to melt some solder on a tin can lid. The computer power box is brilliant, and should offer enough amperage to make it operate.Thank You so much for the inspiration.

This is thrillingly beautiful. I wish to make similar of a mallet already owned. could I please request full on pictures of the artwork? Please!

Looks very nice, and likely TSA safe. But I was wondering if the steel is soft enough to bend into the right angle, would it be tough enough to make a screwdriver tip from it?I will make a version soon though. Probably use bed rail angle.

Hi David:To cut perfectly straight along the long axis of plywood, obtain a nice, inflexible piece of aluminum bar tubing, one inch by two inches with one eighth inch walls ten feet long.(And this could actually be any of several items. You might use the factory edge of a piece of three quarter ply about six inches wide, or a one by one iron bar, etc.Something ridgid, but not so thick as to obstruct the saw motor.)Then on your work bench, place a waste protective piece of ply, on that place a two by four, and against that place a quarter inch or half inch piece of waste a foot long about as wide as your saw. Adjust the saw to only pierce the foot long upper piece of waste. Placing the upper waste against the two by, then place the saw against the two by on the upper waste, cut a piece a...see more »Hi David:To cut perfectly straight along the long axis of plywood, obtain a nice, inflexible piece of aluminum bar tubing, one inch by two inches with one eighth inch walls ten feet long.(And this could actually be any of several items. You might use the factory edge of a piece of three quarter ply about six inches wide, or a one by one iron bar, etc.Something ridgid, but not so thick as to obstruct the saw motor.)Then on your work bench, place a waste protective piece of ply, on that place a two by four, and against that place a quarter inch or half inch piece of waste a foot long about as wide as your saw. Adjust the saw to only pierce the foot long upper piece of waste. Placing the upper waste against the two by, then place the saw against the two by on the upper waste, cut a piece about a foot long. The lower waste protects the bench from getting scored.Now take the foot long piece, and cut it into two six inch long pieces. They will be exactly the distance wide as the saw foot edge to cutting edge of blade.Make a small mark on the piece you want to cut at each end. (There is no need to mark along the entire eight feet.) Place one of the spacers against each mark, on the project piece side of the mark, parallel to the desired cut.Place the aluminum bar, (the fence), against the spacer. Now carefully placing fence snug against the spacer, and spacer perfectly on the mark, C clamp the fence to the project at each end such that the C clamps do not interfere with saw motor. Remove the spacers, set them aside, (having used a Sharpie to mark them clearly to "Save" as "Saw Spacers"), Adjust saw to now cut through the project piece. Properly support the project piece with two bys that cross the cut, onto saw horses. Place saw against fence and cut. (The saw blade edge, and thusly the cut, should now be perfectly on the waste side of the mark.I carry a pair of spacers in my truck all the time, figuring most sites will likely have something for a fence on hand. The aluminum bar is at the shop, ready to place in the truck if the cutting is planned.

Thank You.

Thank You

I loved this pet. Please come see mine.

Great Idea! Somebody just gave me a milk box a third full of old wrenches. I now know what to try with some of them. Thanks

I love it. I have always wondered how that was done. Thank You.

Great Project. Thank You. I have ALWAYS wonderded how that was done.

Thank You.

I thought this was really good, but wondered why the fragile pencil leads. Why not some Stainless steel fork tines, or some high temp wire. Or maybe even copper.

Hi:I have used the barometrically operated micro switches from Washing machines to indicate if a tank of water is full. It does require a minimum of approx ten inches of water column to act, but the switch offers both NO and NC positions to operate. (Normally Open, and Normally Closed. Closed means On.)