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adcurtin

  • Date JoinedNov 7, 2007
  • Total Views17,053
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adcurtin's Instructables rss

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Orangeboard

Jack Tighe says: Oct 30, 2008. 8:24 AM
THE CODES ON MY TV SAY I HAVE A FAILED COOLING FAN... FROM YOUR INSTRUCTIONS WHERE DO I FIND THESE FANS.... THE CODES I ME ARE IN THE OPERATORS MANUAL..... FLASHES (POWER LED----FLASHES GREEN TWICE THEN RED ONCE... WHILE THE LAMP LED IS NOT LIT.... BEFORE I VENTURE INTO THE TV I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHERE IS SHOULD LOOK.... I HAD ALREADY REPLACE THE LIGHT AND HAVE A SPARE IF NEED BE...ANY HELP AT THIS POINT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED... I LIVE IN CANADA AND BOUGHT THE TV FROM A COMPANY WHOM BUYS STUFF LIQUIDATION.... FROM LIKE DEALERS AND OTHERS WHOM GO OUT OF BUSINESS.... SHARP CANADA WILL NOT HELP..... SHARP USA WILL NOT HELP AS I'M FROM CANADA ..... GO FIGURE......THANKS.... JACK
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adcurtin (author) says: Oct 30, 2008. 9:38 AM
Ok, the caps weren't necessary, but whatever. The cooling fan is not it a very convenient location, and I don't know exactly how to take it out since I have not tried, but I can give you a couple recommendations. If you look at step 2 in the instructable, you see the whole light engine. The fan is on the right side of this picture, under the black hood thing. I am pretty sure the hood comes out with the light engine, so you'll probably want to take that out before you try to get to the fan. If I recall correctly, its either a 120mm or 80mm (I think 80mm) computer style fan, so finding that part won't be all that difficult if you have and old computers, or a local computer store would be a good bet too.
Jack Tighe says: Oct 30, 2008. 11:12 AM
THANK YOU... I WILL BE NOW TAKING THE BACK OFF THE TV....WOULD I BE BETTER OFF TO TAKE THE LIGHT HOUSING OUT AT THE SAME TIME... I WOULD FIGURE MAYBE THAT WOULD SHOW IT SOMEWHERE HANDY....THANKS AGAIN... JACK
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adcurtin (author) says: Oct 30, 2008. 1:28 PM
It would be much easier to take out the whole light engine, disconnecting the cables as describes in the instructable. It doesn't really matter if you take out the small black plastic housing with just the lightbulb, that is in the light engine and if you take that out, the light won't be in your way at all. Also, is your caps lock broken, do you need a new keyboard?
Jack Tighe says: Oct 30, 2008. 2:22 PM
Sorry about caps..... I am so used to just typing... this happens when you get older, As we speak I have ventured into the back of the tv and I have all the necessary stuff at hand... a muffin tin to hold the various screws to keep them separate so easier to re-stall ... thanks... for all your help today...Jack
Jack Tighe says: Nov 3, 2008. 8:33 PM
Hi adcurtin... I took the tv apart and cleaned the color wheel stuff.... in the process the whole light engine slipped out and it took the wires out of the female plug which connect to the bulb.... I was able to get the tv working and it sounded and look good.... just by shoving the wires into the fixture that has the female parts... which I found are missing... After putting all together of course it won't light up.... Ihave sourced all tv repair shops locally and am unable to find a replacement female connector... My question to you if I make a jumper cable out of the appropriate wire and took the male end off the light and made like a sort of direct conection and get my tv working again... I would keep this jumper if I had to change bulbs again I would only hook the wires to the correct taps on the bulb itself.... sort of like a plug in for a trailer power cable to the car.... just plug it in.... one guy I phoned said that this bulb requires thoussand of volts to get it going.... the bulb says 120 volts.. and in other inquires you had way back when this all started about high voltage in these sets.... what do you think? would i be okay to do this..... thanks Jack ....
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adcurtin (author) says: Nov 3, 2008. 9:27 PM
Well the bulb is definitely 120v, there is no HV in a DLP, at least not like the HV in a CRT. I would check online for a female connector, but if you're anxious to use the TV, you could directly connect it, but that would be quite difficult. Instead, you could use some other standard connector that you can find, like quick disconnects (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103311 and http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104020) but make sure you get ones for 12 or 10 gauge, you don't them to be too small. You could also see about just going to Home Depot and looking for a 2 prong connector that can handle the current and voltage (12 gauge should be fine, but you could take the bulb and ask a knowledgeable employee). If you have an old extension cord, you could even cut that up and use the ends of that. That makes it much easier to put the bulb in, because you have a bit more space to solder or crimp the connections, then you just have to plug it in. It also makes changing the bulb down the line a bit easier, so long as yo use standard connectors.
nipper00 says: Jun 9, 2008. 8:03 PM
new color wheels are avaible at http://www.palmbeachav.com/Contact_us.html
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adcurtin (author) says: Jun 9, 2008. 10:20 PM
Further info: $170 + $10 shipping. They sell the motor and color wheel only, not the optical reader. If you had the same problem as I did, this will fix it, but I would recommend you try cleaning it first, and if that doesn't work, this would be the place to buy it. The optical reader is the green board you see in the picture of the color wheel.
raffi says: Jan 19, 2008. 4:46 PM
My color wheel is making a whirring noise. did you ever find a replacement place (partstore.com doesn't carry it)? i wish I saw this before I tried to take it apart. Now I have extra screws and I still didn't get the board out.
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adcurtin (author) says: Jan 19, 2008. 5:13 PM
No, partstore does not carry it. The problem is that Sharp is the only DLP manufacturer that does not sell just the color wheel. The only way you can buy a new color wheel is to buy a whole new light engine, but at $1400, a new tv is a better choice. This worked well for me because I got the TV for free due to the color wheel issue. Now if your color wheel is constantly whirring, I would think that is a bad bearing, but if it only does it every little while, and it is more noticible when the TV is warm, you should try to clean the color wheel as described in the guide. My color wheel would whir slightly before I cleaned it.
rjadams says: Mar 25, 2008. 6:13 AM
Mine gets good picture at first and the 45 minutes later color starts flickering like a strobe light. Is that what your did befor you cleaned it.
raffi says: Jan 19, 2008. 6:32 PM
yeah, thats what i figured. Mine does it full time. I'll just use it until it dies or move it down to the basement for the kids to play Wii on. I bought the thing at cost for $1850 and it looks like a lot of people got screwed on this model. I'm disappointed with Sharp. They had a good reputation and I think they messed it up for me. Their Aquos LCD units could be great, but I won't buy them because of this.
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adcurtin (author) says: Jan 19, 2008. 7:09 PM
I did find a store on ebay who said they would be willing to take a color wheel from one of their broken TVs (broken power units apparently) and ship it to me for $100. I actually made this guide for them as a removal guide, and I inadvertently fixed my TV while making the guide. I sent them the guide, but they have not responded, and that was a while ago. I can give you a seller ID/ store name if you're interested.
brucma26 says: Mar 10, 2008. 10:39 PM
What was that Ebay store that was willing to do that for you. I was having problems with the color wheel buzzing rather loudly and i followed your advise and it cut down on the noise considerably but I would still like to replace the color wheel or the entire light engine. If you had that store it would be great
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