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  • Easy Nicad to Li Po Drill Conversion

    In addition to the usual charge protection circuits, I have the practice of charging Lithiums inside a large ceramic pot, and to place this and the charger on the ceramic tile floor of my bathroom, where there is nothing that can catch fire. I've seen a parked car being completely incinerated at an R/C flying field because the owner felt confident and left his Li-Po pack under charge inside the hot car parked in the sun...

    No problem, believe me. I have done it several times. You worry too much, give it a try!

    NO PROBLEM... absolutely. I have used Lithium cells with higher voltage on a Black & Decker drill that used NiMH or Nicad "Versapack" (two of them, so it was 7.2 V), and that works BEAUTIFULLY with the higher voltage of the 3 cell in series Lithium batteries, and also used an old electric R/C car motor supposedly meant for 12V with up to 14.4 V with absolutely no problems, Author has said it perfectly: the small DC motors are rugged and not critical of voltage (up to a point, of course!).

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  • Black & Decker Versapak Upgrade to Li-ion

    When a battery can only supply a very brief burst of power, it means that battery has a very high internal resistance (because it has degraded too much) or because of a "protection circuit" impedes it to supply a larger current. Check your battery's output current capability. Look at webpages on rechargeable batteries for testing methods. A good 18650 cell is capable of turning a small cordless drill much better than the NiMH or old Nicads, but you need to match the batt pack voltage to the requirement of the drill. I replaced the ailing Versapack batteries in my old Black&Decker cordless drill that uses two Versapacks (7.2 volts NiMH by installing three (yes 3) Lithium 18650 cells because the motor is strong enough to handle the raised voltage quite well. This weak m...

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    When a battery can only supply a very brief burst of power, it means that battery has a very high internal resistance (because it has degraded too much) or because of a "protection circuit" impedes it to supply a larger current. Check your battery's output current capability. Look at webpages on rechargeable batteries for testing methods. A good 18650 cell is capable of turning a small cordless drill much better than the NiMH or old Nicads, but you need to match the batt pack voltage to the requirement of the drill. I replaced the ailing Versapack batteries in my old Black&Decker cordless drill that uses two Versapacks (7.2 volts NiMH by installing three (yes 3) Lithium 18650 cells because the motor is strong enough to handle the raised voltage quite well. This weak model of drill now has better power and the charge lasts more then when it had new NiMH Versapack batteries.I recharge the three 18650 batteries with my Aeromodeling charger, called "Triton" that can recharge either NiCads, NiMHs, Lithium-ion and LiPo (Lithium-Polymer) cells as well as Lead-Acid batteries, because it was sold for aeromodellers that use 8 cell Nickel packs in the Transmitter, 4 or 5 Nickel cells in the Receiver, and LiPo cells in electric model airplanes or Helicopters, and the 12 volt Glow plug engine starters. All in all a VERY VERSATILE charger! Amclaussen.

    Although there are some small chargers that can recharge a canned Lithium cell, the charger needs to be specifically designed to recharge a LITHIUM cell... It is dangerous to try to recharge a Lithium rechargeable cell with any other type of charger! the risk is from severely bulging the cell, to exploding and catching fire. I use a very versatile charger that is sold to recharge the multiple cell types used in Aeromodeling, as you need to recharge the NiCad or NiMH cells in the transmitter (usually 8 AA cells pack), or the Receiver (usually a 4 to 5 cell pack of variable capacity) or the Lithium Ion cells like the 18650, or Lithium Polymer cells like those for electric model airplanes or Helis, and even Lead-Acid small batteries. I use and recommend the "Triton" charger or ...

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    Although there are some small chargers that can recharge a canned Lithium cell, the charger needs to be specifically designed to recharge a LITHIUM cell... It is dangerous to try to recharge a Lithium rechargeable cell with any other type of charger! the risk is from severely bulging the cell, to exploding and catching fire. I use a very versatile charger that is sold to recharge the multiple cell types used in Aeromodeling, as you need to recharge the NiCad or NiMH cells in the transmitter (usually 8 AA cells pack), or the Receiver (usually a 4 to 5 cell pack of variable capacity) or the Lithium Ion cells like the 18650, or Lithium Polymer cells like those for electric model airplanes or Helis, and even Lead-Acid small batteries. I use and recommend the "Triton" charger or any other of the ones used for RC model airplanes because of its versatility, the protection circuit it has and the convenience.. Amclaussen.

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  • Black & Decker Versapak Upgrade to Li-ion

    Very good suggestion, not only the capacity is much higher, but even more important: the internal resistance is much lower than half the resistance fo the RCR123 (paralleling two of them halves the resistance, but the single 18650 cell is even better). In motorized applications, the current demand governs the performance, thus the lowest cell internal resistance, the more actual power the device can utilize. Years ago I was quite ignorant about battery performance, I went to a wedding, where one of the friends of the bride was performing as the Unofficial-official Photographer of the ceremony. I saw him loading 4 AA cells of the rechargeable type (those were the older NiCads)... I naively pretended to know about electronics and said: "Maybe you are losing the speed of recharging...

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    Very good suggestion, not only the capacity is much higher, but even more important: the internal resistance is much lower than half the resistance fo the RCR123 (paralleling two of them halves the resistance, but the single 18650 cell is even better). In motorized applications, the current demand governs the performance, thus the lowest cell internal resistance, the more actual power the device can utilize. Years ago I was quite ignorant about battery performance, I went to a wedding, where one of the friends of the bride was performing as the Unofficial-official Photographer of the ceremony. I saw him loading 4 AA cells of the rechargeable type (those were the older NiCads)... I naively pretended to know about electronics and said: "Maybe you are losing the speed of recharging your camera's flash, because those rechargeable cell are ONLY 1.2Volts, so those would be SLOWER to recharge the capacitor in your photo flash and you could lose some important moments in the ceremony". HA HA, he answered, and asked me to see how SLOW were a completely new set of 4 AA Duracell Alkaline batteries he had at hand... HE loaded the Duracells rated at 1.5V, but that measured 1.605 V with a digital multimeter, versus his Radio Shack garden variety NiCads. IT was a no-contest, as the NiCads were MUCH, MUCH FASTER that the new Duracells, so I had to publicly admit I was completely wrong! Some time later, I learned that the NiCad, even at less than half the charge, is faster to recycle the Flash because under the heavy current demand of the Flash, their lower internal resistance provide much faster recycling times.

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  • Hacking Your Air Compressor for Fast Fill Up

    Hi bensmith, I did exactly the same thing to my DeWalt 15 gallon Oil-Free compressor bought at SAM's... The air inlet filter is housed in a too small container that had only six very small (I think it was 1/4") holes letting the air into the compressor head, probably for silencing purposes, but it appears to be a result from bad or mediocre design and lack of engineering; which gives us plenty of opportunities to try to upgrade the factory design.But the worst thing in the DeWalt, was that the electric motor-compressor housing had a round opening that let the Ozone-Ladden cooling air to be aspirated into the compressor, to be delivered to the tank, thus the compressed air had a strong ozone smell, which means that the compressed air is contaminated with the ozone produced by the el...

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    Hi bensmith, I did exactly the same thing to my DeWalt 15 gallon Oil-Free compressor bought at SAM's... The air inlet filter is housed in a too small container that had only six very small (I think it was 1/4") holes letting the air into the compressor head, probably for silencing purposes, but it appears to be a result from bad or mediocre design and lack of engineering; which gives us plenty of opportunities to try to upgrade the factory design.But the worst thing in the DeWalt, was that the electric motor-compressor housing had a round opening that let the Ozone-Ladden cooling air to be aspirated into the compressor, to be delivered to the tank, thus the compressed air had a strong ozone smell, which means that the compressed air is contaminated with the ozone produced by the electric motor brushes, and then the motor cooling fan blows that contaminated air and because the housing had a round opening that let the cooling ozone-ladden air to be blown downwards, to be readily aspirated by the inlet filter. As you may know, ozone is a very strong oxidant, that is legendary for its tremendous destructive power in regards to damage produced to Rubber and most elastomers... This is serious, as most household compressors are used for tire filling, no less!My solution was to seal the round opening of the motor-compressor housing with PVC foam ("foamy" sheets), and to lenghten the 1/2" pipe that connects the filter to the compressor head, so that the air filter now aspirates "clean" air and now that air is odor free, meaning that the ozone ladden cooling air is being blown away from the filter. The filter housing was kept, but the small hles were enlarged to almost 1/2" and additional holes were drilled. Now the filter housing breathes more easily and also make a little more noise, that is not objetionable as the rest of the compressor is quite noisy and masks the filter noise completely. Best Wishes and Congratulations. Amclaussen, Mexico City.

    A REPLY TO WayneEarl, jd-bugman and madpenguin8.-Friends: While your comments are based on some clear facts, your criticism is going a little too far, and you are NOT understanding the value of the modification made by the author, which I find perfecly advantageous, BTW.Let's analyze your comments in more detail:1) To WayneEarl's comment on a lack of a Baseline recharging time.- Here Wayne has a good point, as having a good comparison between both 'before' and 'after' is very valuable, so the comment is valid.BUT, from that comment on, Wayne goes astray, so astray that he suggests that this Instructable "needs additional research" and even saying: "Perhaps giving poor advice".Sorry, I disagree. Let me clarify: MOST commercial compressors are poorly designed and ass...

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    A REPLY TO WayneEarl, jd-bugman and madpenguin8.-Friends: While your comments are based on some clear facts, your criticism is going a little too far, and you are NOT understanding the value of the modification made by the author, which I find perfecly advantageous, BTW.Let's analyze your comments in more detail:1) To WayneEarl's comment on a lack of a Baseline recharging time.- Here Wayne has a good point, as having a good comparison between both 'before' and 'after' is very valuable, so the comment is valid.BUT, from that comment on, Wayne goes astray, so astray that he suggests that this Instructable "needs additional research" and even saying: "Perhaps giving poor advice".Sorry, I disagree. Let me clarify: MOST commercial compressors are poorly designed and assembled, in fact. That is because the manufacturers seldom have the engineering knowledge to completely design all the subsystems for the equipment they sell. Most frequently, they just use whatever inlet filter thay can get from others at the lowest cost and the smallest size that still "works" (and "works" is an exaggeration, the proper wording would be: "BARELY WORKS").In my job (as a process design engineer, 39 years of experience in the petroleum industry) I've seen quite a bit of compressors, and most of the commercial ones are badly integrated, like the one the autor upgraded.2) To jd-bugman: How do you know that simply replacing the element would had solved the airflow restriction? Again, the advice given by the author directed to INCREASE the filter area is a good one, as it is practically impossible to install a "too-large" filter. 99% of them are way undersized.3) To madpenguin8, Please don't be so close minded... ("...running outside the design parameters...") Don't forget that any restriction in the inlet tract is going to reduce the air inlet flow, well. So the compressor will run with a slightly larger flow, OK. But you are worried about overloading the electric motor by placing a larger torque demand corresponding to the slightly larger airflow, but you forget the other damage mechanism: a longer compressor run also tends to produce more heat in the motor windings. By running it in shorter periods (with longer cooling pariods), an even LOWER resulting temperature would be entirely possible. You are right that the higher airflow COULD overload the motor, but the complete operating cycle of the compressor is now different, not necessarily harder on the motor, as the common service factor of 1.1 or 1.15 will easily absorb the larger flow, that is effective only for a short time, as as soon as the compressor raises the discharge pressure into the tank, the flow will go down correspondinlgy. In small household compressors, the WORST enemy is not the flow overload, but the need to re-start the compressor against an only partially discharged tank, which places the greatest starting current stress on the motor, but very few of the manufacturers install a discharge valve to avoid starting the motor against a large pressure whent he compressor re-starts.Installing what is called an "Unloader valve" that vents the compressor discharge during the re-starts avoids the huge starting current that the motor has to overcome when compressing against a partially filled tank. That will be the theme of my next Instructable, as I have seen lots of domestic compressors damaged by the lack of that valve, and the manufacturers seem that they do not want the compressors to last much more.Lastly, I find this Instructable a good one and feel your criticism can prevent some enthusiasts to take advantage of the benefit of an increased (or more properly said, RESTORED) airflow and corresponding shortened running times. Best Wishes. Amclaussen.

    I have one comment on the TYPE of filter. I don't like the oiled foam filters when used on oil-free compressors (like my DeWalt 15 gallon, 200 PSI), because it will contaminate the air on that type. A dry "paper" (in reality it should be a Resin treated paper) filter is best, even when you need to replace the element from time to time, dpending on how dirty is the air in your shop. In oil lubricated compressors the oil added by the oil-foam filter is of no consequence, but it tends to be less eficient than pleated paper ones. Amclaussen.

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  • DIY 600 Watt Amplifier With Old Computer SMPS

    What GordonS6 and rafununu object is that "peak" power is meaningless... It is like trying to rate the instantaneous power for, say an automobile: you could argue that your VW Bug has, say, 1,200 HP... and maybe it can, imagine you attach a very heavy trailer. If you step on the acccelerator pedal for several seconds and then suddenly release the clutch, for a very brief (and useless) fraction of a second, the poor VW would develop a true 1,200 HP, and then die, but the trailer hardly moved a fraction of na inch!.So called ""PMPO" power ratings are completely misleading and useless, those are akin to raise the volume to the top, and then shorting the output! A much better practice is to specify the continuous power (sometimes wrongly stated as "RMS Power...

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    What GordonS6 and rafununu object is that "peak" power is meaningless... It is like trying to rate the instantaneous power for, say an automobile: you could argue that your VW Bug has, say, 1,200 HP... and maybe it can, imagine you attach a very heavy trailer. If you step on the acccelerator pedal for several seconds and then suddenly release the clutch, for a very brief (and useless) fraction of a second, the poor VW would develop a true 1,200 HP, and then die, but the trailer hardly moved a fraction of na inch!.So called ""PMPO" power ratings are completely misleading and useless, those are akin to raise the volume to the top, and then shorting the output! A much better practice is to specify the continuous power (sometimes wrongly stated as "RMS Power") into a defined load of 8 Ohms, from 20-20,000 Hz with less than 0.1% harmonic distortion, for example.

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  • amclaussen commented on 4DIYers's instructable How to Clean a Throttle Body7 months ago
    How to Clean a Throttle Body

    I saw a long video several years ago, where BMW dealers performed a complete and through cleaning by removing the entire inlet manifold and blasted nutshells with compressed air, while at the same time vacuuming the residues. That HAS TO be performed cylindr by cylinder, ensuring that both inlet and exhaust valves are 100% closed! he service was expensive, but results were so good, that the factory recommended that procedure. BTW, BMW engines are among the worst dirtying and inlet valve deposit forming ones among all. Amclaussen.

    The BEST and most proper way, is to REMOVE the inlet manifold altogether, and clean it outside the engine bay. but unless you have means to clean the inlet portsand valves, a lot of gunk will still be there. Amclaussen.

    YES, and it is because the "design" of the PCV system is lousy in 99% of the cars. Oil vapors are (supposedly) separated by "baffles" and the (supposedly) oil droplets free "clean" recirculation is fed to the engine inlet. But the sad truth is that, unless the PCV system has some means to cool the vapors stream, and then separate the oil droplets, that oil will end up as heavy deposits inside the inlet manifold, MAP and Temperature sensors, inlet valves and will result in heavy carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber, sparkplug and O2 sensor, and end up at the Cat converter... I'm installing a small section of air-oil cooler cut from an old condenser radiator, piping the stream from the PCV valve through the cooler, and then to a "Catch-Can (G...

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    YES, and it is because the "design" of the PCV system is lousy in 99% of the cars. Oil vapors are (supposedly) separated by "baffles" and the (supposedly) oil droplets free "clean" recirculation is fed to the engine inlet. But the sad truth is that, unless the PCV system has some means to cool the vapors stream, and then separate the oil droplets, that oil will end up as heavy deposits inside the inlet manifold, MAP and Temperature sensors, inlet valves and will result in heavy carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber, sparkplug and O2 sensor, and end up at the Cat converter... I'm installing a small section of air-oil cooler cut from an old condenser radiator, piping the stream from the PCV valve through the cooler, and then to a "Catch-Can (GOOGLE that term for more info), as I'm tired of removing the entire inlet manifold to clean its insides. another example of how low has fallen the so called "automotive design". Amclaussen.

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  • amclaussen followed KitchenMason8 months ago
      • How to Make an Awesome Breakfast Quesadilla
      • How to Make Strawberry Nutella French Toast
      • How to Make Easy Spicy Baked Eggs (Shakshuka)
  • How to Make an Awesome Breakfast Quesadilla

    I'm already waiting for tomorrows morning to enjoy this idea, THANKS SO MUCH!

    Replace the sausage or bacon with Salmon or Tuna fillet bits, fried in olive oil for a healthier Quesadilla! (and remove the egg yolks too). In addition to the great spring onions, I would add some bits of red pepper. Amclaussen.

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  • DIY: Cyclone Dust Separator From Two Buckets

    While a good cyclone separator works, it still has a cutoff particle size, therefore very fine particles can´t be catched by cyclonic action. Particles under 10 microns in diameter are NOT "filtered" by the nose and mucus, and go directly to the bottom of the lungs. A combination of a cyclone (to remove all large and medium sized particles) and a second very fine filter (usually called "HEPA" filter) is needed. While water operated vacuums are efficient, they usually don't meet HEPA efficiencies, but are very convenient for disposing of dirt and dust.As a fully developed DIY-selfer, I use automotive type pleated filters as a practical final stage filter on my bench tolos, plus an HEPA certified respirator, as I've seen very sad cases of respiratory illness and...

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    While a good cyclone separator works, it still has a cutoff particle size, therefore very fine particles can´t be catched by cyclonic action. Particles under 10 microns in diameter are NOT "filtered" by the nose and mucus, and go directly to the bottom of the lungs. A combination of a cyclone (to remove all large and medium sized particles) and a second very fine filter (usually called "HEPA" filter) is needed. While water operated vacuums are efficient, they usually don't meet HEPA efficiencies, but are very convenient for disposing of dirt and dust.As a fully developed DIY-selfer, I use automotive type pleated filters as a practical final stage filter on my bench tolos, plus an HEPA certified respirator, as I've seen very sad cases of respiratory illness and a couple of cancers in people that perform a lot of dust generating activities. Amclaussen.

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  • amclaussen commented on KronBjorn's instructable SaturnV Vacuum Rocket Launcher 1 year ago
    SaturnV Vacuum Rocket Launcher

    Nice Instructable. How about putting a lightweight cover that is held down by the vacuum, and then just blown away by the rocket. A simple way would be to seal the cover to the tuve with some thin grease. That could add some máximum height.

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  • amclaussen commented on atenea's instructable Repair of a Delta Belt Sander1 year ago
    Repair of a Delta Belt Sander

    Somebody can help me?Mine is a Sears 6" disc x 4" Belt sander that started to fail to keep the belt on the rollers: If I install the belt centered the rollers, it takes about 20 seconds for the belt to start "walking" towards either the front or the rear of the machine, regardless of the adjustement of the right side roller (if I turn the knob to one side, initially it tends to stop the belt running out of position, but makes it slowly start to go to the other side, so that I'm never able to keep it running centered. This problem was not present when the sander was new, and it behaved OK for three years, and then started acting. Any suggestions? Amclaussen (amarquezclaussen at Hotmail.com)

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