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  • andersoon_fm commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter2 weeks ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Hey man, i'm back.I finally got the pieces and mounted everything together, but i'm having huge troubles with clogging/jamming/heat creep (i can't define what it is). My researches indicate that the problem is due to poor cooling near the heatbreak. Which causes the heatbreak to heat and the filament to expand inside and jamming everything.The printer can't extrude for more than 10 seconds without stopping. I tried PLA and ABS with several temperatures and have the same result. The tip of the filament that touches the heatbreak expands a little and get stuck.I saw that you have in this picture some kind of mod to help cooling. Can you give more details about that? I'm using E3D v6 J-Head from China.

    and please, can you show me other pictures of your cooler block plus fan?and which filament you used? I failed with both pla and abs. I was able to print a few cm with AbS without clogging.

    Yes, i tried with only the regular fan that came (a small fan with a blue tube) and didnt worked. Then i added another fan in the oposite direction and still does not work. I have an all metal heatbreak.One thing thats strange is that if i screw the heatbreak all the way in the heatsink, it will only stop with a small portion of the heatbreak inside the cooler block. And when I screw the nozzle all the way in, the heatbreak has a small portion out of the heat block.I tried to vary those positions. Screwing the heatbreak all the way in the cooler and not, and screwing the nozzle all the way and screwing the nozzle just enough to leave the heatbreak screwed in.None worked and showed similar problem. The filament extrudes a little, then "melts" on the heatbreak just before the no...see more »Yes, i tried with only the regular fan that came (a small fan with a blue tube) and didnt worked. Then i added another fan in the oposite direction and still does not work. I have an all metal heatbreak.One thing thats strange is that if i screw the heatbreak all the way in the heatsink, it will only stop with a small portion of the heatbreak inside the cooler block. And when I screw the nozzle all the way in, the heatbreak has a small portion out of the heat block.I tried to vary those positions. Screwing the heatbreak all the way in the cooler and not, and screwing the nozzle all the way and screwing the nozzle just enough to leave the heatbreak screwed in.None worked and showed similar problem. The filament extrudes a little, then "melts" on the heatbreak just before the nozzle.

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  • Configuring Endstops on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware - @section homing

    Thanks a lot!!!I just didn't understood something: if you want to use NC, you have to get open when endstops aren't pressed and if you want to use NO, you have to get triggered when endstops aren't pressed?If that's correct, the only change i need to choose between NO or NC is the #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true or false?

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  • Homemade Electronic Drum kit with Arduino Mega2560

    YES PLEASE, i want a video

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  • High Precision Cardboard CNC Drawing Machine

    Same here. I don't know why you would expend more than $300 on pieces and then use cardboard for the body. If you have that much money to spend you could use at least acrylic or MDF.Awesome project, tho.

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  • andersoon_fm commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter4 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Yeah!! That's exactly they way i was thinking :OAwesome!! Will save this for later! /o/

    The extruder kit has some kind of variations (Left Handed, Right Handed, ...) i have no idea what is the difference (probably the side the filament is extruded). I don't know if makes a difference in this build.The tube i'm thinking about buying is this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1M-3D-Printer-PTFE-... it comes with the pneumatic connectors. Do you think that this is M6 at the end? I'm afraid of buying the PTFE tube and Pneumatic with different sizes, so i looked at this, that is already there.You mean like a bracket to hold the extruder to the case?

    So, for this particular build. Which direction should i choose? I'm still clueless where each thing will be placed.Hmm, so probably with a few metal plates a can do it.Yeah, I've chosen a different type of ptfe tubes and connectors now with M6.The price indeed is not a big problem. The thing is that those things from China take at least 3 months to arrive. So i'm worried about making mistakes and have to wait another 3 months..

    What i have bought so far (hope this also can help other people):-Arduino Mega2560 REV3-1.8m USB 2.0 cable-RAMPS 1.4-LCD 12864 Control Panel for RAMPS 1.4-Nema17 Stepper Motor (17HS4401)-5pcs DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver-E3D V6 3D Print J-head hotend (with fan, aluminum block, 100K thermistor)-10pcs 100K ohm thermistors (just to be safe, if some burns)-5 nozzles with 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.8mm for V6 1.75 hotend-10pcs Steel Bearings-1m PTFE Tube with ID 2mm and OD 4mm for 1.75 filament-4pcs OD 4mm M6 pneumatic connectors-MK8 heat sink 40x40x11mm-Cooling Fan 40x40x10mm 12V-5pcs 4pin Female to Female jumper wire-2m of 4pin wiresMissing (waiting to choose arm direction):-MK8 Aluminum Block for the extruder (containing spring, MK8 screw, bearing, etc.)Waste collected:-2 DVD-Drives with step moto...see more »What i have bought so far (hope this also can help other people):-Arduino Mega2560 REV3-1.8m USB 2.0 cable-RAMPS 1.4-LCD 12864 Control Panel for RAMPS 1.4-Nema17 Stepper Motor (17HS4401)-5pcs DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver-E3D V6 3D Print J-head hotend (with fan, aluminum block, 100K thermistor)-10pcs 100K ohm thermistors (just to be safe, if some burns)-5 nozzles with 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.8mm for V6 1.75 hotend-10pcs Steel Bearings-1m PTFE Tube with ID 2mm and OD 4mm for 1.75 filament-4pcs OD 4mm M6 pneumatic connectors-MK8 heat sink 40x40x11mm-Cooling Fan 40x40x10mm 12V-5pcs 4pin Female to Female jumper wire-2m of 4pin wiresMissing (waiting to choose arm direction):-MK8 Aluminum Block for the extruder (containing spring, MK8 screw, bearing, etc.)Waste collected:-2 DVD-Drives with step motors-1 Power SuplyNeed:-1 Flopy Drive-Polycarbonate for a bed (or other material)-Case (probably i'll do some with MDF or plywood)-Nuts, bolts, etc (i'll buy that at a local shop, as you told me).Again, thanks a lot for helping me through this process!!

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  • andersoon_fm followed setsunakaede and mikelllc4 months ago
  • andersoon_fm commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter4 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Hey man, sorry for the late reply.I think that for the heat part this should do.Do you think that this is enough for the extruder stepper assembly?This extruder kit + the nema17:http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-MK8-e...http://www.aliexpress.com/item/freeshipping-to-any...

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  • Chimera: $60 DLP High-Res 3D Printer

    Would the type of photopolymer for stamp works for 3d printing? Any photopolymer works?What should it have to be able to use for 3d printing? A specific photopolymer kind?

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  • andersoon_fm commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter4 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    I still dont know what completes a whole hotend kit. What i've took note so far is:- JHead E3D V5 1.75 mm - 0.4 mm Bowden Extruder with 100K thermistor- Aluminum Heat Block E3D V6 J-head MK7/MK8- Some brass nozzle extruder with different sizes- 3D Printer Cooling Fan- Pneumatic Connectors PC4-01 1.75 mm- PTFE Tube Bowden Extrude 1.75 mmIs this what completes the set?And for the bolts and nuts, where you bought them? Also at ali?If you purchased the whole hotend kit in one item, could you link me that? Thanks a lot!

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  • andersoon_fm commented on mikelllc's instructable EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter4 months ago
    EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter

    Could you tell me or send PM with the list of things you used? Everyone says something different. Yours looks perfect.

    Awesome, man!

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