Tell us about yourself!
A (literally) more polished look discharge ball would be a 5 cm (2 in) stainless steel ball from Banggood: https://www.banggood.com/Stainless-Steel-Mirror-Ball-Polished-Hollow-Ball-Hardware-Accessories-58101215cm-p-1050679.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
I only just started on the article and I noticed that you linked to Amazon alkaline batteries when you stated that space it too cold for them. Was this a simple mistake after you promoted Lithium as ideal? I guess alkaline will work from inside a well-insulated case (and they're a lot cheaper than even the non-rechargeable "9V" Lithiums).
I expected that insulation was an "inexpensive" option. So, did you do a log of the internal temperature on any of those launches that used insulation and then compared it to the external temperature to see how effective the insulation was?
Thanks. It's nice to see other retirees being imaginative. I like minimalist designs (the MacGyver in me?).I noticed that the code included "arc" versions of the "move to" commands identical to their linear counterparts that weren't in the menu. What were your ideas on implementing an "arc" for them? Was this for those long moves that you indicated may be arced accidentally (so if you inverse arc them, the lines are straight)?Otherwise It seems they need another parameter to specify curvature (like splines).I'm curious to know how the design's parts usage evolved. Was it mainly because "they were around"?
The article's embedded code appears to have misplaced html escape sequences? The GitHub code does not.
Intro to Fusion 360: Lamp Design
I guess I'm a little late to the party, but:The sentence: "Connect a load of your choosing with a resistance of less than 1.4 k to the emitter terminal of the transistor (the nonconnected terminal) and to ground as shown in the circuit diagram." misstates the transistor terminal as being the emitter, when in fact it is the collector. The choice of the op amp is not arbitrary, since the inverting input is held near the V+ rail and for many op amps (esp. older ones) the rails are off limits and can result in destruction at worst and invalid operation at best.
You state NiMH in the intro, but in every case that I have run across, older power tools use NiCad, not NiMH. Their chemistries are slightly similar, their charged Voltage levels are about the same, but their self-discharge rates are way different and NiMH does not suffer from "memory effect". Newer varieties of NiMH have extremely good shelf life of 80% or better after 1 year.I agree with getting rid of the battery level monitor. Most hand drill have a three position switch, and should be stored with the switch in the center position (that also locks my B&D drill shafts) that is completely off, so the only "load" on the battery is its self-discharge.
Your analysis of the op amp based constant current source is incorrect. The FET is not SWITCHED on and off. If it were, this circuit would be an oscillator (which is possible with an unstable circuit). What a constant current should do is BIAS the FET so that the FET is only biased "on" enough to ensure that the Voltage drop across the current sense resistor is sufficient to balance the op amp's reference Voltage input. This is done within constraints of the op amp's open loop bandwidth.Not all Chinese parts are bad. They can't be, since even Japan outsources manufacturing to China. I suggest you repeat your testing on "known good" batteries and compare the results before you make your final judgement.
Nice, but it's way easier to just view your remote on a phone or tablet screen in camera mode or just on a digital camera's screen. Since their IR blocking filters cannot block ALL of the IR, it shows up as white. Push the button and you'll see it blink on the screen. Of course, you need to aim the IR output at the camera lens. Quick and easy.
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