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Trolls trolls everywhere... if you're going to criticize typos, be sure to get your own grammar right.
The car battery produce variable voltage that can range from 10 volta to 14+ volts. The USB power line is spec'ed at 5Volts. Being this is DC, you cannot use a transformer, and somce the voltage from the battery can very considerably, these Auto USB devices use a Voltage Refulator, which essentially chops the output voltage at 5Volts and diaipates all the extra energy as heat. So, actually, the optimum battery would be closer to 6 Volts to minimize energy loss through heat.
Haha. Yeah. That's touch screen typing for you...
The battery just has to be between 6 and 14 volts DC. The reason this hack works is because the battery is not used to charge the phone, it is used to power the Car to USB adaptor. And the internal workings of those can take a very wide range of voltage. Some as low as 6 volts, and some as high as 30volts. But the lower the voltage the more efficient the charge, because the adaptor essentially clips the source voltage off at 5volts, and all the left over voltage is converted into heat.
Allow me to clarify. Certainly, there CAN be issues with choosing not to install a PoE filter, and a PoE MoCA filter is always recommended, and the cable companies have every right to require the filter. But it is not a requirement in the spec, unless you are sharing the coax with an antenna, as the antenna would become a broadcast station, which would be in violation of FCC regulation regarding unlicensed broadcasting. Not all cable systems are equal, and each cable provider may have different requirements which the subscriber must adhere to so long as they are not in violation of regulatory controls. I would expect that the harmonic frequencies should never be an issue, for the same reason it does not interfere within the network where it is installed, and where the signal is the strongest. As the signal leaves the house, the noise introduced into the network becomes less of an issue, as the cable provider's signal is much stronger, and the moca signal must pass through several barrel connectors and splitters (further degrading the signal). I will have to look into this in more details to understand why this wouldn't be the case. Again, it is ALWAYS a good idea to install one, but it is not always required (at least back 4 years ago when I originally installed mine, and researched it heavily). Most cases of interference with other cable subscribers I have come across are with whole home DVR systems. These systems use MoCA as well, and the they interfere with each other without installing a MoCA adapter. With that said, I have no idea as to the impact of MoCA 2.0 or 2.1 on the network, as I have not kept up to date on those specs. And I do not know how these devices might interfere with switched digital video (tuning adapters), I suspect this may be the biggest area of interference.I am impressed with your knowledge. I have never met a cable service tech that actually knew anything about how the system works, or the physics involved. In my area, they generally go by a cheat sheet, and have very poor comprehension of the actual technologies involved. Thanks for your feedback. I will research more about the updated specs, requirements, and consumer rights.
I you called it a modem, they don't know what you have, and think you have a cable modem. The MoCA adapter is a device that is transparent to the cable company, it does not use the cable services, it overlays your home network atop of the television and data network provided by the cable company, w/o interfering with it.Just do the install yourself. Buy the moca adapters, and 1 moca filter. Insert the moca filter between the point of entry and the first splitter. Then install the moca adapter near your cable modem, so that you have an ethernet signal to inject onto the coax. And now, anywhere there is coax in your home, you can connect a moca enabled device and you get 100mbps ethernet connection. 1Gbps equivalent (670Mbps actual, but still as fast as gigabit via 1000baseT UTP connection) if you go with MoCA 2.0.
MoCA is designed to work on the same RG6 coax that the cable company uses. It can tolerate splitters without any problems. But you do not want unterminated lines. So if you have any cables that aren't plugged into a device, then you need to plug them into a device, or terminate them. Just as with digital cable, the fewer the number of splitters and barrel connectors the better the signal quality. The optimum configuration is just 1 main splitter, and at the cable modem (if you have one) another splitter. you may use the pass-through of the MoCA adapters, but the quality is not as high as the high end splitters, and this often leads to slightly degraded internet performance through the cable modem if you have 60mbps+ cable modem service (the higher the bandwidth the more frequency channels you need, and the less likely you are locate enough clean channels to operate at optimum speed).Today's MoCA is capable of gigabit speeds, so if you are looking to do this now, get a MoCA 2.0 adapter (which is fully backward compatible).
at an average of $45/adapter, they are not substantially more than WiFi dongles, and they provide wire speeds. Wifi only achieve on average 35% theoretical performance. So Wireless n, which should get 300mbps, in the real world typically gets less than 100mbps. It is half duplex, so you have to send and receive on the same network, thus you cannot do it at the same time. you have to contend with interference, congestion, protocol overhead, lack of traffic control (resulting in retries and latent packet delivery). With a MoCA 1.1 connection, you have 100Mbps full duplex ethernet and 300 Mpbs backplane (coax), allowing concurrent 100Mpbs send and 100Mbps receive. There is not congestion, or interference to deal with, and because it's a wired connection, traffic control exists to ensure minimal latency on packet delivery.WiFi is, but wired is always better. And with MoCA 2.0, you can do even better. I use MoCA as a bridge between two routers (both wireless a/c). Each router is configured as an AP for the same SSID, so no matter where I am in the house, my devices float between the routers, and the WiFi congestion does not factor into internet performance. Had I configured my second router as a repeater, all my Wifi congestion would have doubled, as the 2nd router would have to repeat everything it receives to send it to the main router, and the same in reverse for the response packets.
Ethernet over Power cannot jump the transformer. Most homes are fed two 110vac as a single 220vac supply, and the breaker box distributes the two throughout the house as 2 bus feeds of 110vac. The power line solution can only communicate with other devices plugged into that same side of the power buss. To wire the whole home with power line ethernet, you would require two devices to link to your router to service both feeds, which means you need more hardware. Additionally, power line ethernet is susceptible to power surges, and drops, and does not pass through surge protectors very effectively, so you run a higher risk of damaged devices as a result of power fluctuations. In practice, it really comes down to what is most convenient to you. If you have coax everywhere you need it, then MoCA may be the better solution. If not, then power line ethernet is a good solution.
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